Lund1990

Haven't noticed a vibration. It had been a few months since I had the the driveshaft out. I keep it greased, but that u-joint had been kinda tight since the day I installed it. I don't do pulls or burnouts. (Tires are expensive af) Only thing I really do is get on it hard, but I never drop the clutch. I had my car trailer behind me (empty) and was taking off in 2nd. Had it revved up only a little bit and had let the clutch out nicely. It was actually completely engaged when the failure occurred. I'm hoping my driveshaft isn't ruined. Currently it is stuck in the transfer case. Hoping its just from getting kicked forward, but I fear it may have spun on the teeth. Haven't dropped the diff cover yet either as its been far too cold. But we're looking at 45º on Tuesday so I'll be under it.

I picked this piece up from the intersection the next day. Thinking it was possibly cracked already as I don't think it would have gotten t that dirty in 1 day. Also. I tried searching as a 3500 and still could only find the strap style for the rear axle

Was pulling my car trailer the other day (empty) when I got into the throttle just a little to get across the intersection, the rear yoke decided it'd had enough. So, does anyone have any suggestion on a good strong yoke? Does anyone make a yoke that uses u-bolts instead of straps? I have changed the front over to u-bolts but haven't found one for the rear. Dana 80 axle in 2000 ram 2500 L6 5 speed.

The time has come I can no longer put off replacing my tappet cover gasket. While in there I will be doing a re-seal of my vacuum pump also. Along with swapping in my hotrod vp44 from 98 cracked 53 block. I want to make sure I do everything I should while I've got it torn apart. Are there any other seals or anything else that I should be replacing while in it already?

What is this w-t ground modification?

2004 Cummins 48re. Drove it in the morning, no problems. Got in to leave for work that night and it wouldn't move. For some research I found that it was probably the governor pressure solenoid or transducer. So I replaced both of them. It still will not move

Trans was making funny noise. Tore into it and discovered pieces of a gear in bottom of case. SO, where is best place to source heavy duty parts for the nv4500?

My buddy is picking up an 06 2500 that has had an nv4500 swap. Had a dual disc clutch. My question is, will the hyd 1.50 from south bend made for a 2nd gen bolt up to the firewall. I only ask because the nv4500 was not offered in an 06 from what I've been able to find.

I don't want to use straps anymore. Just want a ubolt kit bit I'm thinking I'll need to change my yoke.

Had to pull driveshafts because I recently lost 5th gear in my 2000 2500 with nv4500. Rear was a tough one because the bolt heads were rounded off. So I am wanting to convert this yoke to use U-bolts instead. Does anyone have a part number for the U-Bolts that will work for this?

I had thought about that, I just figured if I'm able to visually see the values change on the scan tool that the computer must be getting the same values. I'll try unplugging the switches and see what it does. What are the values of the potentiometer that you use? I like that idea quite a bit.

Am I right to assume that the IAT temp that shows on the obd2 scanner is the same sensor as the ecm gets it reading from. I ask because if so this is very confusing as the IAT temp was 50 yesterday and the 3 cylinder high idle still was coming on.

Do you know the temperature that it activates each at? I have my code reader on live data and getting IAT temp of 50 when I first started it. And it still is going into three cylinder

My 2000 2500 is going into 3 cylinder high idle even when its 80ºF out. I do have the high idle switches bit they are set so the truck is getting its true readings. Which sensor is causing this?

Oh that's not a big deal at all. Can always modify the release handle a little. Truck currently doesn't have the grille pieces in anyway. It's my workhorse that gets abused. Nice having one that scratches and stuff don't bother when they happen.

So my 2000 started throwing some odd codes. It's showing a P1698 and a P1689 . No Trans bus messages and egr actuator.... But here is why they're weird. My truck is a 5 speed from factory, and is pre-EGR. Any ideas what could cause this?

I've been looking at some ranchhand front bumpers. I've discovered that they supposedly don't for the sport model. Does anyone know what the difference is and why it won't fit? Is it an easy modification to get it to fit?

Does anyone have a part number or place to source the bushing for the master cylinder push rod to clutch pedal. Can't find one anywhere.

I believe I've figured out what fbfs culprit is in this problem. I'm fairly certain now after chatting on another forum and doing some checking/testing, that my instrument cluster is causing the problem. What place is recommended in fixing these clusters?

I didn't bother with any of it. I just ordered a trans online, came out of Tennessee I think. This was like 5-6 years ago. Bad trans is just sitting around the acreage.

Just catching up on this. Thought I'd share a picture of the carnage i had on the day I bought my 2000. I didn't make it 10 miles before this happened. I was 90% sure that the hum was coming from a front hub assembly. I was very, very wrong. Ended up being that the tail housing was cracked and there was basically no fluid left.

Find a harbor freight for cheap tools and pull off the tail casing figure out what's going on. 2wd or 4wd? Not much difference in the amount of work tho.

I haven't stacked tuners. That i know better than to do. Truck just feels like it's got way more power with the smarty over the edge. Maybe I'll have to plug the edge back in. I got both of these tuners with my 2 2nd gens I own. I'll check out the quadzilla. Just have a hard time justifying the cost with the condition of these trucks. Although I may start cutting apart and welding in new body panels this spring.

So i kinda got it. I tried a battery charger like I saw on another forum. Nothing. So I unhooked the batteries for a while , tried again and it loaded stock SW but at the end said error 14. Tried loading catcher and went back to like it was last night. I unhooked the batteries again for a bit. Got it programmed back to stock but got the error 14 again. Truck starts and runs tho at the moment. Nervous to try loading a catcher again. I like the smarty tune much more then the edge comp box that was run on it before, no longer hooked up.

I have. I get through turning the key off and back on. It says it was interrupted and asks to install stock software. When it goes to so that I get and error comm time out