adamey1000

Thanks for the responses. I think I am going to pass on them. I like the look, but there are far too many downsides. I wouldn’t mind the lift, but steering box damage and rubbing on control arms are a deal breaker. I will just buy a new set of tires for my 16’s and be happy! I have American Racing outlaw II’s on it, and they look good, just had something shiny catch my eye at a good price. With 3.55 gears, I think I was asking for trouble anyway.

I apologize if this has been answered before, but I couldn’t find it, and I have to make a quick descision. I have an opportunity to buy a set of 17” wheels from a 2003. They have 315-70-17 BFG KO2’s on them. I am stock ride height. Any issues with rubbing or handling? I know they will be heavier, and will mess with final drive ratio. As far as fit, is there anything I am missing? Not sure if there were offset differences.

I will switch and see if that is the case

Does that profile support the average mpg gauge? I know that it did not when it was first released. Would I need to reflash the quad box to use it in that profile?

Yes I am using the V2 Quadzilla Only version 3.94

Turbo cool down set, works as designed. The power level stays the same. Always returns to previous power level set after warm up temp is reached. My settings on offset, de-fuel, warm-up, etc. are remembered as well, but I suspect they are stored in the app not in the quad.

Both leads are hooked up. Solid red lead is connected to the stud on the main fuse panel, red and white to the cab fuse #9. Changed the fuse for good measure, but no luck. I would imagine that the red and white wire is to signal the quad that the key is on. It is basically functioning as a relay, is it not? So if it were not getting key on signals, the quad would never switch on. Box power is coming from the battery lead, which should also be the power source for memory. So in theory, if the box is powering on, there should be no problem with the power leads. Is my understanding correct?

Well I have tried the buttons set in every combination that I can think of. I cannot keep it from resetting every time the truck starts.

I think we just got an up-skirt on @Mopar1973Man

Someone should plumb in the oil temp probe from their Quadzilla and get some temps. Doesn’t seem like it would be too hard to do that, or a manual temp gauge and really see what it is doing. @KATOOM, are you measuring with a temp gun?

That’ll do it! That would explain the intermittent communication with the PCM. I’m glad you found it. You will have to solder fill that connector like you would a battery terminal I would imagine. But do some reading on here and other sources on that. I’ll do some digging for the source material, but solder joints done incorrectly can wind up with serious corrosion issues. It’s been a minute since I was searching that though.

I am new to all of this too, so take my opinion with a grain of salt. It looks to me like either the graphing is out of wack, or something funny is going on with the canbus fueling. I would think that it would pretty closely mirror throttle position to a certain degree.

I know that you are trying not to just throw parts at this issue, but with what you were describing and the fact that the WTS and other lights are staying on with the key removed, I would replace the ignition switch. It is only about a 15 minute job, and if I remember correctly it was under $50, but it was over a year ago, so I could be a few dollars off. At least that way you have eliminated one potential source of issues.

That makes sense. It’ll be a week or so before I get back home to try, but I’ll update you guys as soon as I try it. I assumed that the on switch actually was turning the offset on.

Anyone have any ideas? I would love for this feature to work well, but right now it’s not useful if it resets every time.