uber racing

Here's what were pulli'n

With the short bead it's tough to find a unit that isn't 18-24" deep. the unit I had built was 12" just for this reason. It's worked very well this past summer.

I need a bit of info. I had the High idle flash TSB originally done at the dealer, and worked fine. ( also hav high idle fooler) I was running the S03 with REVO S03V126CDR12A.7z on standard settings and caTcher on SW#3. Again High Idle worked fine. I made an update to SW#5 but decided to go back to #3. After doing this the High Idle feature quit working? I reflashed my SO3 with SmtEV1_22D207A.7z and the feature started working again on the stock setting. When I added in the caTacher SW#3 the high idle feature stopped working again? Is this normal, or is my file corrupt?

I'm going to throw this one out. Mine does the same thing. If I start it up warm up a bit and go to drive stalls. But if I put it in reverse first it will pull down a bit but not stall. then if I go to Drive after that it's all good......

I just went through the ABS sensor thing. It was bad wheel bearings. Found out the hard way on the side of the road in Wyoming on the way back to MI. Jack the front up and check for excessive play in the hub, and or bearing noise from the hub. Once the bearing was replaced ABS was fine. (bearing came with new sensor as well).

Just finished installing my custom built auxiliary fuel tank in the bed of my truck. I didn't like the cost or the size's of most of the units I've seen. Wanted something that would fit under the rails and not take up too much bed space. A buddy of mine own a fab shop and makes some tanks for some Bio guys. What we came up with was a aluminum tank made form .100" sheet. Measures 48"W x 17"H x 12"L. capacity is a reasonable 41 gal. Got the rollover valve from Jegs, and picked up an aluminum vented filler neck and cap assembly from an aircraft supply house I found on-line. We installed two internal baffle plates to control fuel slosh. we also welded on an external tray and tabs to hold my 6 gal water / meth tank. I have a filter pump from a Cat, but haven't installed it yet. I'm currently just using a gravity feed kit from RDS. I was actually suprised on how quickly the gravity feed with a 5/16" line will fill the main tank. It filled a 1/4 tank in about 15min of driving. I'll have some pics of the build and install in a few days.

I have a question about indexing. Or loosing index. My system was working fine. When I changed out my injectors I broke the vacuum line running along the fire wall. Of course the system defaulted to Defrost mode. I repaired the line but since then If I ran the fan above the second position it would go to defrost???? Now again it's reverted to the defrost only mode. So wold you think this is an indexing problem? If so how do you re-index??

I was going to but I figured there was pic's in the link. If I make any adjustments I'll take some. ---------- Post added 04-26-2010 at 07:16 PM ---------- Previous post was 04-25-2010 at 09:52 PM ---------- got a chance to put some miles (about 70) on the new foam today. I may still have a bit of adjusting to do but I got to tell ya all the spine jarring bumps from crap roads is gone! None of the shock form sharp bumps is being transmitted up through the driver. Deffinately was worth the little bit of time it took!

Well my drivers seat was killing my hip due to the foam starting to break down. I did some reading http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3rd-gen-non-powertrain/129591-front-seat-foam-3.html on refoaming parts of your seat. I had the typical left bolster sagging. Pulling the cover off was pretty easy. In doing so I also found out why my heated seat isn't working. Broken wire and was burning the seat foam! I removed the foam from the base. and glued some burlap to the bottom to give some support to where the springs were starting to cut the foam. I also re-glued the Left side bolster back to the main cushion since it was starting to separate. I then took some 1" foam and built both hip bolsters up. Flipping the cushion over I cut a piece of 2" foam to fit the recess of the frame area. I then spray glued some burlap to the 2" foam to give it some strength and resistance from the seat springs cutting through it. Took a little effort the get the cover back on but not too difficult. The seat is a bit more Poofy than before, but will settle in with use. Well have to see how this feels with some miles on it. If I don't like it I'll make some more adjustments.

I'm running a MBRP on mine. I like it very much. Not too loud but as described by some of my Power Storke friends " Your truck sounds Evil"

I've never bought a VP44 from JKidd, but I have delt with him before. I can say he's good to deal with.

It will work, but personally I'd want more. At least a FASS HPFP95 for Raptor. You can always add better filters yourself than the AD or full FASS systems. Also look at the MITUSA or Glaicer mechanical pumps.

I'm looking at doing a fog / rear light set up like MM's. Where the heck do you find the 4" rubber buckets without the lights? I can find them with fairly cheep I think ($50 / 6) but don't really want to buy them with lamps I'm not going to use. Any suggestions? Thanks

:lmao:Sounds like my wife

Here's a link from TDR with some excellent pictures of a torn town VP44. http://www.turbodieselregister.com/user_gallery/displayalbum.php?&albumid=17275