Mace

Then I may be interested. If you know a tune that’ll make it run better I’m all ears.

I’m sure there’s a lot of trucks with more miles than me. I’m pretty happy with 25 years. Even if it dies tomorrow I’m pleased it went this long. I’m also sure things like the VP are built better today then when they came out.

I had the oem lift pump (in conjunction with the GDP Fuel Boss) until my ecm failed earlier this year. Now I’m rocking just an Airdog 100. I’m too nervous to program my truck just in the case the tuner fails and takes something else out. Although I’m curious to see it “woken up”. New trucks leave me in the dust and I’ve accepted it haha.

Luck mostly. We didn’t actually have to change over to ULSD for a couple years when it was introduced. When it was finally forced I ran used 15w40 (just the stuff from my oil changes) with every fill up (switched to 2 stroke oil after reading your article on it). Also, I never had the Carter lift pump fail like so many did in the beginning. By the time I switch it to the GDP Fuel Boss it just wouldn’t die. Also I have never run a tune either. I have Bosch 40 hp injectors but power wise it’s stock. That’s the key thing. P7100 are oil lubed and VP’s are with fuel. So mostly just luck.

I’m on my original rad @ 442k km. I change the coolant every 2 years with Cummins ELC. I wish these engines had a spin on water filter head like the 8.3 has (built into the engine). I’m also on my original VP44…ask me the secret to that ;)

Electric Vacuum Pump Conversion: I have deleted my OEM vacuum and power steering pump(s). Instead, I have modified it by replacing it with a midrange setup for steering assist; however, I still need vacuum in order to activate the HVAC controls and to activate my exhaust brake. Although the OEM factory pump never gave me any issues and supplied all the vacuum I needed to work, such as the HVAC and the exhaust brake, the OEM Power Steering did. I have replaced the OEM Power Steering Pump multiple times. In all cases, the pump would not maintain enough pressure and turning the wheels at a stop during idle was almost impossible. Compound that with the inevitable oil leak between both pumps, I figured there was a better system. So, this is where the "midrange" setup comes into play. The 24V ISB was used in multiple applications (not just Dodge). Even though they were not used in another pickup, they were used in midrange sized trucks like Freightliner FL60 &FL80, Ford 650 & 750, Kenworth 370, motor homes, bread trucks, etc, etc. It was the engine of its era. Trucks with vacuum controlled cruise should work also. This particular modification applies to my setup only; (the midrange setup for steering assist). My cruise is ECM controlled. I have the non CAD front axle, so my vacuum demand is limited. On SD applications, they use it to lock the front hubs and HVAC on their trucks. So I feel it should work on any of our vehicles. I used the same pump from the SuperDuty and 3rd Gen RAMS (same pump). I picked it up from Rock Auto along with a Mating Connector. I drilled 3 holes and mounted it on the fuse box cover, in an easy to service spot. For plumbing, it goes to a control manifold for the EB, and tees off into the OEM vacuum line on the firewall. I do not use a reservoir like FORD uses, but you could run one if you desire it. For power, it gets fused voltage from the PDC power stud, which is also the relay supply power (pin 30). The relay trigger is controlled by a fuse tap in one of the PDC fuses, that is hot only when the key is on, so it does not run all the time. The pump has an internal governor, so when it reaches its vacuum threshhold, it shuts off. If it is always running, you most likely have a leak that you need to repair first. View full Cummins article

Absolutely

It does well. I run my hvac and exhaust brake on it and it hasn’t let me down…yet. I just run the Dorman one too.

Yes, it’s on the other side. The splines are coated in Teflon but I’ll stay atop of it.

I thought I’d share my recent drivetrain upgrade I put in my 01’ 3500 (SRW converted) 6 spd. On transfer case side of things swapping a NP271D in is pretty common for a 2nd gen. I wanted to take it one step farther. It took some trial & error finding what parts will work and what doesn’t. It’s pretty much a modified Ford design. I found a used 08’ NP271D and rebuilt/modified it. Eliminated the leaky Dodge slip yoke tail housing and utilized the rear fixed flange yoke setup from a 06’ NP273F. I bought the rebuild kit, some updated parts & specific seal installers from TorqueKing4x4. I also installed the Ford style companion flange on my Dana 80 along with a new washer, nut & seal. ***Snap-On # M3586 is the correct thin walled 1-7/8” socket if you ever need it.*** Initially had a 5” aluminum driveshaft but the Sonax slip yoke kit is quite expensive so I had a 4” steel one locally made and upsized it to 1480 greasable ujoints (OEM are 1410). T/case fits perfectly. There’s 1/8” of clearance at the frame and no contact at bottom of cab. The 2nd Gen linkage rod (11”) is a tad short so even set at max travel the shifter will be off just a touch. So I replaced it with the 3rd Gen 16” one and now it’s perfect. I don’t have the cad Dana 60 so the momentary ball switch from the old NP241D-HD just swaps over to make the 4wd light come on. I have the LRG trans crossmember so I didn’t have any interference with the front driveshaft. APPS delete ✅ Midrange power steering ✅ Electric vacuum pump ✅ Next project: Dynatrac high pinion 35 spline Dana 60 3.73 gears with an electric locker… Enjoy!

It’s because of the grille and release handle sit lower then the chrome one, so it hits the bumper unless you want to notch it out.

01-02 all have their crank sensors on the timing case by the VP44. My 01 does and has a blank plug in the old spot by the starter. If you don’t have any crank sensor hooked up whether old style or new style your gonna have a problem. The ecm needs to see engine timing. Once that is figured out all you need to do is take your truck to a dealership and have them program the ecm/pcm against the vin so it’ll act like it originally intended.

This is a tech article regarding those who (like me) think the oem spot for the apps is not ideal. Exposed to outside elements, heat, vibration and potential corrosion, moving it inside was most practical. Non Dodge/ midrange applications of Cummins 5.9 24V ISB’s all have their TPS/APPS inside the cab, mounted on the pedal assembly. So nothing is changing on the apps operation, just moving it. This mod does not works on trucks that are auto/use vacuum for cruise. The auto trans kickdown cable is attached to the bellcrank assembly. As with the vacuum solenoid setup too so if you can live without them then it will work. Parts needed: 699-5101 pedal assembly (2x) 6 pin Duetsch connectors kits Zip ties Grommet 6’ of 6 wire harness Tools needed: Duetsch connector terminal pliers Wire strippers Making the mount will be up to you. I can show you pictures on how I made mine but it’s just a one off. Either way you need to mount it inside. First, disconnect the 6 pin Duetsch connector from the apps, remove the bellcrank assembly from the cylinder head. Cut off the cable and discard. The oem pedal assembly will need to be removed and the oem mount has a pivot pin on the bottom that’ll twist out with some channel lock pliers. Once you mount your new pedal to the mount and it’s installed all that is needed is how to control via ecm. So a 6 wire jumper harness is needed. I would HIGHLY recommend removing and tossing the apps that comes supplied with the new pedal and install your current one in its place. I can’t guarantee its quality. If you need an apps, a Williams Control 131973 or 133284 will work perfectly (Timbo is just a repackaged WC). Available from any oem truck dealer (I.e. Kenworth or Freightliner). On your engine side of your harness you need to make a 6 pin male Duetsch connector. Ensure you new connector kits have the locks in them, some kits do not come with them for some reason. YouTube or Google can provide a video on how to use Duetsch connector pliers, they’re super easy to use. Using the hole in firewall that the original pull cable went through install a grommet to prevent rubbing and feed your harness through. If you prefer to drill a hole the same size of the connector body you’ll need a 7/8” drill bit. **It’s easier to make the harness, THEN crimp the new terminals on after feeding it through the oem firewall hole for a cleaner look.** Cut your 6 wire harness to length and crimp on the terminals, install the connector body and plug it in. Theoretically the engine doesn’t know where the apps is so it will work. Make sure you mate up each wire in its proper spot on each connector, if you mess them up a CEL will come on/non functionality of the apps. Secure the harness to various points with zip ties so it’s rigid. This provides a clean look and more room in the engine compartment for future servicing. Start the engine and test. Throttle response should be crisp since there is no cable anymore that has slack as it wore. View full Cummins article