Mace

It’s because of the grille and release handle sit lower then the chrome one, so it hits the bumper unless you want to notch it out.

01-02 all have their crank sensors on the timing case by the VP44. My 01 does and has a blank plug in the old spot by the starter. If you don’t have any crank sensor hooked up whether old style or new style your gonna have a problem. The ecm needs to see engine timing. Once that is figured out all you need to do is take your truck to a dealership and have them program the ecm/pcm against the vin so it’ll act like it originally intended.

This is a tech article regarding those who (like me) think the oem spot for the apps is not ideal. Exposed to outside elements, heat, vibration and potential corrosion, moving it inside was most practical. Non Dodge/ midrange applications of Cummins 5.9 24V ISB’s all have their TPS/APPS inside the cab, mounted on the pedal assembly. So nothing is changing on the apps operation, just moving it. This mod does not works on trucks that are auto/use vacuum for cruise. The auto trans kickdown cable is attached to the bellcrank assembly. As with the vacuum solenoid setup too so if you can live without them then it will work. Parts needed: 699-5101 pedal assembly (2x) 6 pin Duetsch connectors kits Zip ties Grommet 6’ of 6 wire harness Tools needed: Duetsch connector terminal pliers Wire strippers Making the mount will be up to you. I can show you pictures on how I made mine but it’s just a one off. Either way you need to mount it inside. First, disconnect the 6 pin Duetsch connector from the apps, remove the bellcrank assembly from the cylinder head. Cut off the cable and discard. The oem pedal assembly will need to be removed and the oem mount has a pivot pin on the bottom that’ll twist out with some channel lock pliers. Once you mount your new pedal to the mount and it’s installed all that is needed is how to control via ecm. So a 6 wire jumper harness is needed. I would HIGHLY recommend removing and tossing the apps that comes supplied with the new pedal and install your current one in its place. I can’t guarantee its quality. If you need an apps, a Williams Control 131973 or 133284 will work perfectly (Timbo is just a repackaged WC). Available from any oem truck dealer (I.e. Kenworth or Freightliner). On your engine side of your harness you need to make a 6 pin male Duetsch connector. Ensure you new connector kits have the locks in them, some kits do not come with them for some reason. YouTube or Google can provide a video on how to use Duetsch connector pliers, they’re super easy to use. Using the hole in firewall that the original pull cable went through install a grommet to prevent rubbing and feed your harness through. If you prefer to drill a hole the same size of the connector body you’ll need a 7/8” drill bit. **It’s easier to make the harness, THEN crimp the new terminals on after feeding it through the oem firewall hole for a cleaner look.** Cut your 6 wire harness to length and crimp on the terminals, install the connector body and plug it in. Theoretically the engine doesn’t know where the apps is so it will work. Make sure you mate up each wire in its proper spot on each connector, if you mess them up a CEL will come on/non functionality of the apps. Secure the harness to various points with zip ties so it’s rigid. This provides a clean look and more room in the engine compartment for future servicing. Start the engine and test. Throttle response should be crisp since there is no cable anymore that has slack as it wore. View full Cummins article

Big thanks to you for getting those computers back to me. Also, I messaged Mike on here this morning and he was a phone call away in no time helping me source this issue! That’s a community This is why I really enjoy this forum. In the beginning we had Dave Fritz/Dodgeram.org, now we have TDR (to some extent). Finally we have this place where all the mysteries have been solved. Don’t forget Mike as we discussed: You may perish of cancer but the forum lives forever, so you live forever!

I will one day when I get this truck finally sorted. The pedal assembly is for an International truck. Part # 699-5101. Rockauto carries them. So a new apps didn’t change things. I eventually found a troubleshooting page from CF Mike wrote. On a scanner the TPS % doesn’t change when I rev it up. I do not have 5 VDC at pin 5 on the apps connector, I did a continuity test between it and pin 31 on the ecm 50 pin connector and it showed 0 ohms and then I load tested it with a halogen bulb and it lit up fine. I figured the ecm was at fault. I removed it to inspect and found I had bent pin 31 over when I initially installed it. I tried to straighten it but it broke half way off. I put the stub end in the female connector terminal and reinstalled the 50 pin and it makes contact. The fault went inactive & cleared but it’s not “good” enough. Test drive was successful and its runs great. I will have to replace my ecm or get it fixed but I need another one ready to go, I can’t afford this month long saga again.

Wanted to show something here. Here’s the new APPS, number on it is 133284, same as the Timbo. Even though I ordered a 131973 this is what comes now. You can buy these at any truck dealership. Here’s a pic of my relocation bracket.

Update: My new APPS won’t be here until tomorrow due to a shipping error. I wasn’t able to make the WIF work. The light does go out if it’s unplugged so I found a connector cap for it to keep it out of the elements much like I did for the heater connector. I tried plugging in multiple types of wif sensors and the light kept coming on, checked the 5 VDC reference (pin B) & ground (all good). I can live without it. So far ACS’s work appears tier 1. I’m running 1/2” line from the pump to the VP. I’m excited for tomorrow as I hope this truck finally comes back to life. Been well over a month now.

Currently I have a wif sensor in the airdog water separator. Removed the drain and put the sensor in. I ran a jumper harness from that to the engine harness plug. Like I mentioned I unplugged it at the harness side and it’s still stays on. I’m not sure if this is a problem from ACS. I did order a new apps through my work (Inland Kenworth). Williams Control 131973. I should have it by Tuesday. Hopefully it solves my P0122 issue, I will check the wiring harness I made when I relocated in on Monday to confirm is not melted or something.

Just an update: I got my items back today finally. I reinstalled the ecm & pcm but my troubles aren’t gone yet. The engine runs but stumbles and falls to idle when I rev it up. As soon as I first started it the CEL was on, checked the codes with a OBD2 reader and I have an active P0122. I did do the apps reset, checked ac noise (0.021 VAC). I may need a new apps. Second issue: the wif light stays on, even with it unplugged at the engine harness it doesn’t go out. Not sure yet how to troubleshoot this one. This wasn’t a problem before. The new airdog works great. However, if I key on (engine off) the voltage reading at the oem lift pump connector (that triggers the airdog relay) is about 8.9 VDC, when I start the engine it goes up to about 14 VDC and the airdog runs and everything is fine that way. Welp.

You replaced the rail prv?

My 01 has the hole but there is a plug in it.

You could also fuel field the cp3 and watch it hopefully make full pressure.

This sounds like a rail pressure relief valve sticking open. I’d recommend taking the drain line off the PRV on the rail and confirm it’s not leaking down. They pop off at a high pressure so if anything is coming out it’s not good. Also, if your losing prime in the head you can take the return line off the back of the head and measure how much is coming out in a graduated beaker. If it’s too much the mating surfaces on the cross over tube to the injector mating face may be the issue.

WT mod should be done in full first. I don’t have much troubleshooting experience with autos as I have the 6 spd but from what I understand a lot of issues are solved when the mod is done. At least you can rule that out.

Well it’s repaired and being mailed back to John tomorrow. Here’s what they emailed me saying what they did. They didn’t come up with a cause. What a nightmare this has been. “Problem Description and Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs): P0606, P0113, P0118, P0121, and P0123 ECM Tests Results and Faults Found: • No Communication to Lift Pump • Lift Pump and APP Circuit in Short • Cold Solder Joints on CPU • No 5v Reference for Sensors • No 9.5v Reference for Lift Pump • Bad Wait to Start Light • P0606 Code Present ECM Repair Completed: • Replaced APP (Accelerator Pedal Position) Circuit. Please keep in mind this Circuit shares a Ground Circuit with additional Sensors and any one of them could be in Short (MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) Sensor, Camshaft Sensor, Water in Fuel Sensor, Engine Coolant Temp Sensor, Intake Air Temp Sensor and Oil Pressure Sensor. Please see the attached diagram.) • Replaced Lift Pump Circuit and Flash Chip • Replaced 5 Volt Driver and 9.5 Volt Driver • Resoldered CPU and 50 Pins • Updated Software • Replaced Wait to Start Light Circuit • Removed P0606 Code (Prior to installing the Rebuilt or Remanufactured ECU, you must replace both Batteries, Terminals, and clean ALL Grounds. Failure to do so will result in the P0600 Code returning and voiding your Warranty.) PCM Tests Results and Faults Found: • Cold solder joints (on CPU, Flash Chip, and Noise Filters) • Faulty Capacitors • Low Volt Reference PCM Repairs Completed: • Replaced Capacitors (220uf 35v Capacitors (x3)) • Resoldered Noise Filters, CPU, and INTEL FLASH CHIP”

Oof 16” tires… Cant run 3rd Gen brakes with those.

That looks like cheap Chinese knockoff crap that break under any kind of stress. Don’t trust your life to $119. I made my own. I used a 07 Power Wagon bar (16mm) and cut it in two and had a machine shop make a threaded turn buckle in the middle for adjustment. Worked great. The bracket I use is from Dodge Off-Road.

I’ve never added any additive to my fuel tank in 24 years. I have used that Cummins approved Diesel Kleen occasionally but never noticed a difference. I think a lot of that stuff is snake oil. The biggest hurdle in diesel fuel is water and as long as you can filter that out your gold. I’ve lived in some harsh, cold climates and never had a freeze/gelling issue either.

I replaced my control arms a couple years ago with Stryker’s as they’re a tad longer for levelled trucks and the bushings are greaseable. You can center your wheel by adjusting the drag link by the pitman arm.

Welcome! Its nice to see 2nd gen’s living on still

Well the girl is starting to come together. My Nations 180 showed up today and I’m going to install it on Monday. I’ll make sure to clean all the mounting surfaces to ensure a decent ground. My ecm & pcm are in @Tractorman care and he’s forwarding it to ACS on Monday as well. I’ve installed my Airdog 100-5G during the week. Quite happy with the install (I’ve deleted the oem filter housing now). I put a 6.7 wif sensor in the water separator and made a jumper harness from the engine harness wif connector so I can retain that. I’ve lost the heater side since I couldn’t find a filter with a heater element in it. One thing I noticed in the airdog harness is it uses the oem lift pump connector for the relay trigger and already comes with a diode suppressing relay. I removed the oem lift pump & plate and am waiting on a Fleece block off plate to cover the hole. During my adventures in wiring down on the engine harness I was leaning on top on the engine and accidentally broke the dipstick handle off. I see they discontinued it and have the “new style” dipstick & tube on order. The old tube came out surprisingly easy. Just a note about my GDP Fuel Boss removal. I ended up breaking the crank side pulley wheel to gain access to the harmonic bolts to remove the adapter. Those set screws are a PITA to get out after many years of exposure to the elements. What a nightmare it will be if you had to replace a crank seal or something all because the set screws don’t want to come out. If anyone is interested in buying my old kit I got a deal for you. You’ll just need a new pulley wheel adapter (I’m sure you can buy one from GDP) and new 3/8” hose.

I completed every aspect of the wt mod as written. That ground is soldered now.

I ordered a Nations 180amp alternator. When I was moving my truck into my works yard the rpm was going crazy and the “check gauges” light came on. I hope other components arent getting killed by this thing.

I used the SMP from Rockauto originally. It was slow or so I thought. My vacuum switch recently died at the same time so I replaced them both and my EB is quicker now. 1-2 second delay turning it on and maybe 2 delay switching it off. Noise is the same I find.