Cowboy

Was there some kind of a storm recently? What does SHTF mean? I got the same setup as AH64ID is talking about. Not quite as fancy though, I disconnect the AC and use it's circuit, hook that to a 3500W Gen and we have everything needed. If power is expected to be out an extended period of time, hook up the 10,000W gennie and live like a king haha.

Where's the "About us" page???????

Around here, they add the die after shipping it to the distributor. I get mine straight from the distributor and have had zero issues with dirty fuel in all the rigs that get it (all off-road rigs).

Don't worry about the new thread, most us read all the threads anyhow. haha Do you plan on re-torquing or replacing the gasket? Either way, when you go to torque the bolts, make sure to use the sequence in THIS picture. If you're re-torqueing, just remove the valve covers and injector lines including the small injector return line. Then just start in the center as the picture above shows, remove a bolt, put a small dollop of a good grease (I use some red synthetic grease), and then torque it down, go to 90 ft/lb's plus a quarter turn. That will put you around 125-130ft/lb's reason for the 90* thing is because your torqueing the bolts to their elastic state, so it's more accurate to do it that way. If you feel like any of the bolts are getting buttery, stop, take it back out and replace it. Only reason to pull the injectors out is they protrude on the bottum, so if you plan on setting the head anywhere, either be careful and use blocks when setting the head down (my favorite) or pull the injectors. if you leave the injectors in place, make sure when you pull the head, it doesn't "drag" on the block. I'm not the one to comment on the valves, but I would atleast pop them open and check the seat condition. If you're worried about dirt getting in, there are only two main places to worry about, the Injector Pump and the Inlet to the Injectors. Get a pack of these and they'll screw right into both the injector pump and injectors to protect them from dirt and damage to the threads. http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-Chrome-Bulge-Acorn-Wheel-Lug-Nuts-Pontiac-G8-M14x1-5mm-1-4-Standard-qw-/291535817688?hash=item43e0e38bd8:g:aakAAOSwLVZVx7WJ&vxp=mtr

Yes and no. A cam could do that if that's what the cut profile had it do. But it is very unlikely that they would design it like that. We all know the typical 4 cycle sequence: Intake - Intake Valve open sucking in air. Compression - Both Valves Closed Power Stroke - Both Valves Closed Exhaust - Exhaust Valve Open Pushing out air. In a Simple World, that is how it works. However Cam designers found they can improve the engines performance even further by changing the Opening/Closing Times. There are many Cam profiles, But on a Cam for a 1000HP rig, The Intake Valve Stays open longer, So it's open during the beginning of the compression stroke, giving air more time to enter the cylinder at high RPM's. Of course, this will hurt low end performance. And likewise, The Exhaust Valve will open sooner, so it's opening during the power-stroke, this gives the exhaust more time to exit the cylinder, but you're bleeding off pressure that would otherwise be pushing the piston down and transmit power to the crank. You'll be hard pressed to find any cam that doesn't have just a little bit of valve overlap. As Overlap helps both High and Low RPM's. Now there is such thing as to much overlap. For instance If you have high drive pressure, then you'll want to minimize the overlap. Just because you have 50 psi boost, and 60 psi drive pressure doesn't mean that overlap is bad. There is a tremendous amount of pressure waves going throughout the intake/exhaust manifolds. So yes the Drive Pressure is higher, But you are still benefiting from valve overlap. All these things put together makes up part of the Cams profile, and that is why bigger isn't always better.

If it cranks off instantly like that after sitting over night, I tend to doubt you have air in fuel problems.

Governor springs will cause what you describe with the de-fueling. But what I hear in the video sounds like a typical 12 valve with a free-flowing exhaust. You can look at exhaust leaks around the manifold and turbo connections. If you put the throttle to the floor, how many cranks does it take to start? Mike, The red line in this picture is a common point for air to get in when it's sitting.

I've never dealt with a leak in that area, but my general leak finding method is dry the area off completely, and then put down some baby powder or the like. Then just watch it like a hawk and see where it gets wet first. If it is a head gasket, you may be able to get away with just re-torquing them. IIRC, Cummins specs are 60 ft/lbs on the two shortest length bolts, and 90 ft/lbs on the longest ones. Then give them all another 1/4 turn (90*). However most guys just do 90ft/lbs plus 90* on all the bolts for more holding force for their performance needs. If you decide on the re-torque method, let me know, there are a couple tricks to do it right. On the plus side, I've got compression in my radiator, and coolant down the exhaust side of the block. So I need to change my gasket. I've been wanting to do that for a while to give me a chance to port the head. There are basically 3 stages of porting, and the 1st stage is stupid easy, and helps with flow across the board. I'll probably give it a stage 1.5-2. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-12v-dodge-cummins/69-air-intake-exhaust/499-don-s-head-porting-extravaganza

Right below the thermostat is a common head gasket leak area. If that is the issue, welcome to the *Need a Head Gasket* club!

Keep turning it over, it's hard to tell in the video, but it appears like your turning the engine over backwards. If that is the case you have to have the intake closing right as the exhaust is opening. They should literally both be open at the same time. You can tell which way your spinning the engine by looking at the fan, it should be spinning in a way that pulls air through the radiator. If it's pushing air through the radiator, then you're going backwards. If you are using the alternator to spin the engine, you are spilling it backwards.

Make sure the exhaust is on the valve overlap where both valves are open. If #1 still isn't right, then adjust it correctly, and then turn everything over by hand a couple times to makes sure it's all working correctly.

I know a guy that ran 1800* sustained for a couple minutes.... Says EGT's are actually ***'s (Turbo Intake Temps) and don't correlate well with Actual cylinder temps. For instance, we all know raising your timing lowers EGT's. Well, it raises cylinder temps. I'm not saying everyone can go out and run 1800* all day long, but EGT's aren't a magic number.

Just a little update on this. I've played with the design some, and I was able to greatly reduce the spiking! The main thing was painting it purple, I've had mixed opinions as to why that is... Here's it in 4th gear, 1000 RPM and floored until 3200 RPM.

As far as the FSS, just unplug it.

The air going into the engine comes back out and feeds the turbo, so small leaks have a larger effect then it would seem.

Any time I disturb the intake on my truck, I always test for boost leaks up to 40 psi, some leaks don't show them selves till 10-20 psi. A lot of times simply tightening the clamp won't work, you have to re-seat it. For a quick check, make sure all the intake horn and intake plenum bolts are installed, they can work loose.

Lol, don't mater to me, probably wasn't of use anyhow.

I got one, but it's not the same, it's a 12 valve pre-filter with a speaker magnet it in... hahaha Also, I got this finished up: http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-12v-dodge-cummins/70-steering-and-suspension/502-hotrod-ps-pump

That's showing 27 volts AC! Something is seriously wrong with the truck or your meter, more likely your meter.

I know I'm cheap, but on the 01, I just straightened out the rod...

True, but I don't think you'd get any crud you otherwise wouldn't with normal driving. Been wrong before though. But yeah, pumping it into a container would be best, but the return line hose has been stuck on all the trucks I've played with, only way to get it off is to cut it off. So if you want to avoid monkeying with it, I think you'd be safe to just pump it into the reservoir.

If you empty the reservoir, jack up the front end, and work the steering lock to lock with the engine off, it will pump the fluid from the steering gear into the reservoir. You can also pull the output plug out to drain a little more fluid. This is also as good of time as any to work some magic on the pump

Or http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-non-powertrain/1584354-spin-power-steering-filter.html

Ahhh OK, makes sense. I was picturing a 12V, I guess the 24Vs would be a little more difficult.