Cowboy

The wastegate is self contained, so you shouldn't have any issues with the swap.

I know where you're coming from John. If it doesn't work, I'm out the cost of a filter and $7 for a PTO cover. But that's a null factor cause this is in the name of science!!! The inlet is above the filter so hopefully nothing makes its way back out. I was originally going to ditch this idea and go straight to the pump setup, but I figured that if fuller makes something that works on the same principles, then they are either catering to the idiots like myself, or it might actually work. I understand that the filter is of a different design, so maybe that's the secret ingredient. Besides, this matches the rest of my illogical mods. I was looking for a slightly larger micron rating, but the only other one I could find was a 57490 which is 40 micron and it's physically a bit smaller than the 51410 which is 21 micron. This is looking only at WIX filters without a drain-back valve. It will be a long while before I get any kind of test results, but regardless of what they are, I'll let you know how it goes.

Ye of little faith!!!

I'm currently thinking on a WIX 51410, I don't think I want a 'drain-back valve' due to the pressure loss that comes with it, but that really narrows down my options. I really want to do some testing as to how much pressure/flow this will do. If I could get a couple PSI I would be happy. The outlet of the filter is opposite of the inlet, in hopes it will help pull the fluid through the filter... don't know if it's going to work.

I got around to throwing something together, now I just need to install it on the transmission, and install the transmission in the truck. Anyone have a suggestion on micron filter to run on this thing? it uses a 3/4-16 thread and a maximum of 2.9" O-ring OD. I'm not sure exactly how long of a filter I can accommodate at this point.

When I ran 50wt in the NV4500, I never did any real testing, but I do believe the 50wt ran considerably cooler than the syntorq that's currently in it. I'm sure you know this, but there are two parts to a NV4500, the gears, and the synchronizers. A good fluid will keep them both happy. I'm curious what your experiences will be, so keep us updated!

They matched up for me.

Dang, I didn't know why had show and tell going on here! I was all hitched up the other day hauling 2 tons of salt and a goat. haha That's a nice looking trailer Bill!

To insert an image you just drag it to the box in the following picture or search for the picture by clicking "choose files...". Or if you already have the image uploaded, just post a link to the image, the forum software takes care of the embedding. Then click the "(+)" icon on the picture to include it into your post. It will be added wherever your cursor is. Also, I may be mistaken, but I believe the filter relies on being submerged in order to work. All the gear fluid is spinning around the countershaft, so the deflector on the filter housing channels some of that fluid into the filter. I'm currently playing around with making my own filter using the same principles. It should be fairly simple to construct, even if I end up going with a pump system on the '96, I'll just throw this on a different rig. What I'm really curious to see is, if constructed in a manner to get as much pressure as possible, how much is that. Also, if you do not include the picture by clicking the (+) icon, it will still be embedded at the bottom of your post as seen below.

Doh! I accidentally linked to the D's... Here are the E's for $172. Whoops. http://www.discounttiredirect.com/direct/findTireDetail.do?ra=filterTireProducts.do&fl=&pc=27009&counter=0&ar=75&rd=16&cs=265

What size are you wanting? The link I posted shows $134 for me.

I get them from discounttiredirect. Once a month or so they'll have some form of discount that I usually hold out for. http://www.discounttiredirect.com/direct/findTireDetail.do?ra=filterTireProducts.do&fl=&pc=27122&counter=0&ar=75&rd=16&cs=265

Sorry I worded that poorly, I meant for the filter to filter out any particles from the last implosion, the one I'm cleaning up after currently. I may end up going the pump/filter/cooler route, not sure. If I do I would like to shoot the oil back in from the top of the tranny to help keep everything oiled. Also, I don't know how much difference this makes, but I like to paint my transmissions black for maximum heat radiation.

I believe he was referring to the lower 5th gear, as in the one on the countershaft. Someone needs to weld a bung on a PTO cover and send it to Mike for some absolute accurate readings. If one were to do that, where would be the best place to weld the bung? Center? Top? I have done a lot of data analysis with different sensors and such, and have learned it is 100% worth it to think of every problem possible with the sensor location or design. If you don't naysayers will discount your readings (often times those people are correct) and even if everyone accepts it as truth, knowing that it is as accurate of reading possible gives you a warm fuzzy feeling inside. That extra 10% of time it takes makes the 90% shine so much more brightly. There was a guy somewhat recently that did some "testing" and stated that a banks dual ram intake lowered EGT's ~ 40° at idle. He took these readings with a IR heat gun. I give props to the guy for trying, but I just don't see that being accurate, there are too many other variables.

I've considered a tranny filter, but like AD64ID said I don't know how much a non-pressurized system will work. I've considered a couple different designs, one with a remote filter and pump, then shoot the oil back in at whichever gear is known to fail. But feel that the risk of leaks outway the benefit of filtering. I have also considered putting a port on the top of the tranny that oil gets flinged into, and then filter that before getting returned to the bottom of the tranny, so you'd have maybe .4 psi of head pressure... Still on the fence on that one. I'm also curious how much pressure the countershaft gears make if you had a port strategically in the passenger's side PTO cover. Reason for the filtering for me is because the transmission I would install it on lost a couple gears and sent tooth fragments everywhere. I've currently got it apart on the bench replacing parts and flushing everything out, but I'd really like a second line of defence to catch anything I miss while doing this flush. I also wouldn't mind filtering out the synchro material. Also, the 241DHD has a PTO cover

I've always used Trident A1-15 fuel line. If you price shop you can get it for a decent price. I don't want to go into all the pure awesomeness of it, but it's great. I know it will outlast the truck, so only competition at this point is the engine... Just as an example, a buddy redid his fuel system with 1/2" blue line, he had it a certain way for about a week I think, then he noticed that the way he had it plumbed had it rubbing on the throttle linkage and had worn it pretty good. Well I had plumbed mine the same way 6 months prior with trident line, so when he told me about his problem, I checked mine, sure enough there was rubbing, but you couldn't tell by looking at the hose.

If memory serves, it's 3/4" NPT. Like others said, it won't be submerged, though the air in the tranny will likely be about the same temp as the oil so maybe it doesn't matter. TFaoro, I was going to ask you, what was all involved in your g56 swap? I'm considering it myself as the NV4500 in the '96 needs a new clutch anyway, and I'm pretty sure the OP welded on 5th gear so I'm hesitant to throw to much power through it. From what I've read I need clutch/flywheel, new/modified hydraulics, lengthened/shortened drive shafts, T-case shifter modification, and modified cross member. Does that sound about right? Thanks.

Just ordered a new set of Cooper AT3's for the '99. Also have them on the '96. Myself and a couple of buddies independently noticed that the AT3's are a sticky tire. I used to be able to spin on pavement but not any more . Also driving in snow/ice this winter was easy, a guy in front of me went off the road, and the guy behind me almost tailgated me, but I could hardly tell anything was different. The best price I've seen is from discounttiredirect.com, I get them shipped to my door, then mount/balance them myself (BB's for balancing). Sean at Tread depot may be able to get you a better price so it may be worth emailing him Sean@treaddepot.com

I've been meaning to post this up for almost a year now, but never got around to it, so here we are. This is to help any other poor souls that have to pull the injector pump on a M9540 or the like Kubota tractor. Long story short, I had to pull the injector pump on a 2013 M9540 Kubota tractor last year, very straight forward until it came to pulling the gear off. After spending hours at it trying everything imaginable I finally figured out a solution. A 12 valve cummins injector retaining nut is the correct thread pitch to thread in, so then take a M10 nut with a 17mm hex and press it into the threaded side of the injector retaining nut. Then use a fully threaded M10 bolt and sharpen the tip slightly (I used a stainless steel bolt that was 65mm long, reason for the SS was it was the only one I had that was fully threaded). Then just thread your gear puller into the gear, thread your bolt into the nut jammed on the end and tighten until the gear pops off. Really slick! Perhaps in another year I'll get pictures of the setup. Other notes: If your tractor has a loader, remove it! You don't need to remove the injector lines to pull the IP, just disconnect them from the pump and flex them up slightly while you pull the pump straight out. Make sure to mark the orientation of both gears before popping the gear off. And DO NOT rotate the engine after pulling the injector pump. The gear that drives the IP gear is just an idler and is not the same diameter as the IP gear, so if you rotate the engine, even if your marks are lined up, timing will be off. If you have any further questions, feel free to post on this thread, or for a possibly quicker response email me at bjohnson@mopar1973man.com Have a good one.

On battery cables, to avoid shortening the stock cables to add a new end, you can just melt the old end off with a torch. Also avoid soldering the ends on, if there is somehow a bad connection it can melt the solder and let the cable dangle, which with a dual battery system, may not turn out well. And yes, the VP's really like to be turned over quick, jumping them in the cold is a PITA.

Playing around with NV4500 oil is nothing new. If you want to do it right run the syntorque or amsoil, Redline is proven to eat syncros. The first and last time I had someone rebuild a NV4500 for me he told me to run 50W with a little lucas or he wouldn't warranty it. Long story short I re-rebuilt it, and put syntorque in. Good luck with your testing.

Oh come on Mike, where's your inner redneck? http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-drivetrain-except-engine/516911-diy-nv4500-rebuild-information.html Also, we have the same service manual in the download section... hehe

I'm with IBM, loosing 3rd and 4th screams shift rail issue. If you're willing to pop the top and look, it may be something simple. The fix to not wanting to drive your "first rebuild" is to do it on a friends truck...

I typically throw a dab of grease/oil on JIC fittings and rarely have issues despite working with crazy old/rusted fittings at hydraulic pressures.