Ironforger

Ok, found it. I see one bolt accessible through one of the gears, but I can't tell if there is one more bolt under a gear or if it's accessible through a gear spoke. Here is the picture from the thread you mentioned, and another picture of the exploded diagram from the shop manual. I havent put the fan and radiator back on yet, so I think I'm going to open up the timing cover again and double check. \ Click the pictures below for larger image.

Can the bolts be accessed through the spoke holes in the gears?

The other 4? Where are the other 4 exactly? Are you talking about inside the timing area or the longer bolts that pass through the timing cover and case? While inside the timing case I could only see 2 bolts within. It looked to me like the case was mostly mounted/held in place with longer ones that pass through the cover and case. Thanks

Yea, check the ground lugs. Loose ground connections will cause maddening issues. There are a bunch under the hood, they branch off of the neg side of the batterys. just follow the cables from the battery and you will see all of the terminals. Some go to the block, others go to the body. Just this week I decided to get new cable end terminals (the big ones that connect to the battery posts) So I took all of my battery cables off and brought them to nearby generator/starter shop and had nice heavy duty ones crimped on. Anyway, when I went to take the ground cables off the ones that connect to the block were LOOSE. I'm glad I decided to do the cables otherwise I wouldn't have noticed the loose connections. I didn't have any freaky electronics issues but just saying......

Ok so I did the KDP job today.All went well. Dowel pin was fine but I peened it with a center punch to make sure it doesnt move. I noticed a couple of the timing cover bolts were on the loose side. Otherwise the 2 bolts that I could see inside the timing area were sorta tight but I backed em out and put lock tite & re-torqued anyway. (the one next to the KDP was a torx head)I did the crank seal too. I gotta say that was one of the more difficult seal jobs I've done. Had to drive the seal into the timing cover from the back. After that it was easy once I figured out that the plastic sleeve included with the seal is an install tool to help slide the seal over the crank journal without rolling the seal lip.On another note, I had initially purchased the crank seal from NAPA but it turned out to be WRONG. Some 2 piece thing, looked nothing like the original. Couldn't make it work and it was too small for the crank journal. . NAPA guy swears it was the right one. Dumbasses. Luckily I found it at the dodge dealer so I could at least finish putting the timing cover back on today.I degreased/pressure washed the engine before starting. After cleaning Happy to notice I have a #56 block. Deleting the puke bottle too. Took out the radiator, gonna put new hoses and clean the radiator too. Some greasy sludge in the radiator finss, and tremendous caked crease all about the front of the engine I'm guessing (hoping) it was all from the puke bottle.Sure is nice to have a clean engine regardless. Now I can watch it to see if any oil leaks occur, & I'll be able to see where coming from.I'm installing my fuel boss while I'm in there. Prolly next weekend. Yay. Running out of evening daylight quick here in NJ.

Good info, thanks.I'll add this the the growing list of things I want for my truck!

This device sounds interesting.What exactly does it do?Increase fuel mileage during winter & speed cold start warm-ups? Can someone provide a synopsis?thanks!

Great pictures. Thanks!

Thanks Bill.Were is the best place to purchase Spicer/Dana parts? Are there any recommended online places?Thanks

Thanks for the info. The picture clarifies it big time.

Dammit!I just went to NAPA to get new U joints and Center bearing. U joints are nice quality federal mogul made in usa & zerks included but the center bearing was crap! NAPA brand but made in china. wtf?? :mad:Ok I know more and more stuff is made in china, maybe ok for some applications but I'm not installing cheap china parts in my driveline.Any reccomendations for aftermarket quality parts purchases besides the dealer?Thanks

I was initially thinking ISSPRO, but I've just decided to go with Mcnally Guages. I've been running one of thier boost / egt combo guages in my isuzu box truck since 2009. Great guage, nice look. Black face, white letters, led blue illumination at nite. it has a dial for the boost and digital egt. Anyway, Thanks for the tip on the boost pressures. I just talked to the engineer at McNally they make a 0 - 50 boost / egt combo. I'm not an engineer but he assured me the 0-50 is accurate across the full range of the dial. And they do custom gauges as well so I'm going to have them make a custom dial for a fuel pressure / trans temp guage. This way I can get four data points from 2 physical gauges & mount on the a pillar. Unless I can find a 2 pod dash mount that is! Here is the link for mcnally if anyone is interested. http://www.mcnallyelectronics.com/index.htm Great customer service by the way. Good prices too. I think they started off as an aviation guage manufacturer and spun off onto auto stuff because one of their engineers has a vw TDI.

Thanks for the tip on the divider. 1/2 way between the rear of the manifold and center of it? Not sure where you are describing. Can you give me a reference point? When you say "rear" exactly where is that? Thanks!

Getting ready to purchase gauges.What is the typical factory boost pressure range? Trying to decide on a 10 - 30 psi guage or 10 - 50 psi.Also, I'm going to install an EGT guage as well. Were do most guys put the thermocouple probe? I'll probably drill a hole & tap 1/8 npt on the top of the exh manifold pre-turbo - that is right there before the flange where the manifold bolts up to the turbo. That's where I did it with great success in my isuzu NPR diesel.And for you guys who are going to warn me about metal drill/tap chips falling in and wrecking the turbo, don't worry as the best way is to drill and tap slowly while engine is idling. Thats right! Get up there and drill while engine is running. Preferably do it on first start up of the day as it only takes a couple minutes and you don't want to work on a hot engine. As you poke through, the pressures from the exh gasses blow the chips up and out. Just be sure to wear safety glasses!Soon to be installed mods: fuel bossPotential future mods: 50hp injectors & edge comp.Thanks!

Good advice. I'm still considering doing mine for this reason, even if the kdp is uncommon for the 02.

Damn! That's unbeliveable. . I found the link to the thread: http://idahoturbodiesels.com/vb/archive/index.php?t-1261.html and the link to a picture of the dodge invoice (it was covered under warranty) http://s54.photobucket.com/user/Fishin2Deep4U/media/dadsrepair.jpg.html I quote Dave from the thread refrenced above " Fishin2Deep4U 12-08-2007, 02:42 PM 1St gen all the way to 2000 i think. Make that 2002. December of 2002 to be exact. My dad's was a victim of the KDP. I have the revised case in mine. The build dates were 4 weeks apart, mine being built first. You don't know until you look. :-? Dave" Soooooo..... the question is does your 02 have the revised case or not? and the final question is: How can you tell if you have the revised case??? Do you need to take it apart to see? Or is it obvious on a visual inspection just looking under the hood? Does it sound like there are differennt manufacting factories for these engines? Depending on which factory implemented the revised case? Thanks!~

I just read an article at Geno's from the TDR (Turbo Diesel Register) that indicates the KDP is not a problem for the 02' 24 valve engines. Is this debateable? Here is the article: http://www.genosgarage.com/GenosGarageTechArticles/TDR57_KillerDowelPin.pdf Has anyone had the KDP problem on an 02 24 valve? Thanks

Good advice.How difficult is it to remove the crank pulley / harmonic balancer?thanks!

Thanks!

Can anyone reccomend a know reliable / good cust service distributor for the isspro gauges? Thanks

Getting ready to address the kdp soon. At the same time I'm going to clean the radiator, degrease the engine & delete the puke bottle & add a fuel boss. Want to try and get all this done before it get's to cold outside.Questions: I've decided to just unbolt the pulley assy from the block instead of using the custom wrenches to take the fan apart. Is there a gasket between the pulley assy & block? Or can I put it back together with the high quality grey rtv stuff? Same goes for the timing cover. Can I just use grey rtv on the re-assy?I've done the kdp on my first gen years ago, and I recall it was pretty easy but I used a new gasket for the timing cover. Any other pointers or step by steps for the 2nd gen?Thanks

Thanks guys. Let me know if you are ever in the NJ area & stop by to see the studio.

I'm just a jack (or jack off!) of all trades. No shortage of things to do with my trucks lol Primarily a pro welder / artistic blacksmith. Check out my website: http://www.ironforger.com Also a maintenance coordinator, landlord & I process firewood all year long. I'm really looking forward to setting up this truck! It's soooo much more fun to drive & way comfortable compared to my first gen. As for lifting the body, I have a gantry crane so no problem there.

So I ordered the fuel boss mechanical lift pump from GDP http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/product.aspx?pf_id=FB-98502 Also ordered the big line kit to replace the fuel line between the filter housing and VP. Includes an inline Tee with npt connection. http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/product.aspx?pf_id=9852BLK&rurl= I'll post updates once I get this installed. May be a while, busy as hell and first need to clean up the engine. Tons of accumulated grease from a long term leaky power steering pump (fixed it) and puke bottle sludge too. So, I'm going to do the moparman puke bottle delete, kill the dowel pin, clean/degrease the radiator & install the fuel boss all in one shot. Here is a progress update picture. No rust!! Not bad for an 02? The body is on the trailer behind my first gen across the street. Click picture for larger image.

I read somewhere on the cummins forum that the frequent NV5600 failure issues are often due to towing in 6th gear. Something about 6th gear goes through a weak intermediary gear, weak needle bearings and the intermediary gear heating up especially under load / eg towing. Flys apart and the pieces wreck the trans. Apparently issue is compounded by the fact that the nv6500 has coooling issues/runs hot to begin with. Have a read here. It's a really long but very good thread: http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/41978-nv5600-fso6406a-6-speed-fuller.html - - - Updated - - - Here is another very good thread. Checkout post # 65 from Irishpowermad. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/273121-nv5600-oil-question-6.html