twentyohtwo

Drill it out with shop vac going. Use magnet to probe interior for chips. You will be good to go. Gauges are a real eye opener and the greatest asset when monitoring the performance of these trucks. Have fun.

Thanks for the input. I'll do a little research on water separation. In my experience water separation takes place after the air is compressed, downstream from the compressor. If I had a blockage at that point it seems that it would simply satisfy the pressure switch and shut off the compressor. However my compressor fuse blew. To me it seems that would be due to condensation created by the heat of compression and low ambient temps. The system came with a cheap air intake sock and I located it in a dry area. Perhaps I can find a better prefilter , or maybe i"m missing something mechanically speaking.

He may have been thinking "evaporate".

Hey folks, This is my first winter with my Pacbrake. It had run flawlessly until ambient temps got down to around 10 degrees. Then it stopped working on my way home one night. The next morn. after I warmed the truck up for an extended period, it started working again. This cycle went on for a couple of days, then my 30 amp compressor fuse blew. I replaced the 30amp with a 20 amp. ambient temps are now around 32 and she's back to working reliably. My compressor is located by the passenger side battery as directed in the pacbrake instructions. I routed the air intake filter to the firewall behind my Bhaf. I have not yet remote mounted the actuator piston vent that pacbrake suggested to reduce intake of moisture . ( I had to mount my brake farther down the exhaust pipe because the 4" exhaust pipe didn't allow mounting the brake on the downturn behind the turbo.) I'm wondering if others have encountered this problem. Thanks, Bret.

Thanks for the article link and the info. I often forget that there's more to this site than just the forum.

I have seen on this site a couple of times where 17# is the ideal fuel pressure. My pump provides 12-13#. Why is 17# better?

Thanks for the correction. What I wouldn't do for another gear or two. I have always disliked my tranny's shift points. If I could only go back to 2004 when i bought my truck, I would tell myself to by a manual trans.

When you buy the pacbrake they send evrything you need to hook it up to your model truck. Mine came with Pacbrake's lockup controller. It locks the converter in 3rd and 4th with overdrive switch in off position. You get compression braking only with overdrive switch enabled. It is surprising how much braking I get without the converter being locked up.

I recently installed a pxrb on my truck. I can't believe the difference it makes. I used to get serious brake fade from overheating when taking a grade with camper and boat to lake roosevelt. Now I don't have to touch them except on a couple of 20mph corners. That really destresses our camping trips. I also love the auto warm up feature.

I installed my air dog 150 this summer. It gave no option for retaining the use of the old canister. I guess i'll find out how important the fuel heater is this winter.

Yep. The windows would stay mighty foggy in the winter if the a/c wasn't working. I found that out when one winter I was hearing my a/c clicking on and off repeatedly. I was low on 134a and it was cycling on the low pressure switch. After I got her running right I asked around and found out it ran in defrost mode in the winter too. That surprised me a little, but makes sense.

How did they mess the design up? I recently installed one and haven't had any issues. Besides a few people mentioning pump problems I haven't heard of anything. Please elaborate.

Did you cut the bottom of the draw straw at a 45 degree angle? I don't know if it comes that way, but my air dog needed to be cut.

When truck is in neutral and I spin one tire the other spins in the same direction. spider gears don't move. So you're saying that means time for a rebuild?

Well I got the diff on the workbench and tore it apart. Just as diesel4life said my clutches were not only gummed up but one of them was worn quite bad on the outer rim. I'll see about getting a replacement clutch pack tomorrow. I put the tear down on video and will add the reassembly and post it for those who may be interested. Thanks for the feedback people. That's what makes this such a great site.

Alright, they are 3.55's. I checked oil level, good. Removed diff cover and drained oil. No shavings or particulates in the gear oil, remarkably clean actually. I can rotate either one of the wheels about 3/4 of an inch before the opposite wheel starts turning. There is a pretty good knocking sound from the drivers side of the diff as that wheel finally engages. I have video on my new iphone but am somewhat iphone ignorant and cannot upload it at this point. I will try to get some video soon. thanks for your input. Bret. - - - Updated - - - http-~~-//youtu.be/FVmPndHfVMc ok here's the link to my video

Hauled the camper up to the hills last weekend to go huckleberry camping. On tight to not so tight corners i'm getting a huge pulsating grind coming from the rearend of the truck. I have always felt a grind when I'm loaded and turning tightly on asphault or concrete but not near this bad and not with pulsation. This weekend I was on loose gravel and dirt and still got the bad grinding.I just assumed I had posi. because of the grind on dry pavement and in the winter the diff stays locked no matter what. In fact I've come close to wadding the truck up a few times as a result. I also go through rear tires like mad, which I thought was a diesel torque thing. Now the questions. Has anybody experienced this and what did you find? How do ID what type of diff and gear ratio? I've only seen 3.55's and 4.10's on the web, I can measure approx with tire/driveline spin calc. What is the general feedback from eaton detroit trutrac diffs. If I have to replace mine I was thinking of going that direction.I'm headed to my shop to start tearing into this problem. Thanks for any input. Bret

Hauled the camper up to the hills last weekend to go huckleberry camping. On tight to not so tight corners i'm getting a huge pulsating grind coming from the rearend of the truck. I have always felt a grind when I'm loaded and turning tightly on asphault or concrete but not near this bad and not with pulsation. This weekend I was on loose gravel and dirt and still got the bad grinding.I just assumed I had posi. because of the grind on dry pavement and in the winter the diff stays locked no matter what. In fact I've come close to wadding the truck up a few times as a result. I also go through rear tires like mad, which I thought was a diesel torque thing. Now the questions. Has anybody experienced this and what did you find? How do ID what type of diff and gear ratio? I've only seen 3.55's and 4.10's on the web, I can measure approx with tire/driveline spin calc. What is the general feedback from eaton detroit trutrac diffs. If I have to replace mine I was thinking of going that direction.I'm headed to my shop to start tearing into this problem. Thanks for any input. Bret

Yeah. Almost unbelievable. But accurate. I drive 50 miles a day round trip to work. About 30 of that is highway and 20 is city. I took the mileage with an empty truck and not towing. Over the course of two tanks of fuel I averaged 19.5 on the first and twenty the second. I was on the throttle a lot on the first tank cause the turbo sounds so much better though the bhaf. I couldn't resist.

20 mpg hand calc. after bhaf install. I cannot believe the difference that that it makes. I picked up 3-4 mpg from deleting the stock airbox. Next week I plan on a muffler/converter modification to see what results that yields before I make a final decision on 4" turbo back.

Hey Folks, Just finished installing new set of isspro a pillar gauges last night. I hopped in the truck and started heading down the road. It was night time, my gauges lit up nice adjusted by the dimmer, window was down, couldn't get any better. Until i realized my fuel pressure gauge was only reading 8# at slow cruise and 2# wot. No problem. I suspected that I fouled up the fuel isolater install somehow. So when I got back to the shop I hooked up my handheld gauge and viola! 8# at idle. So this morning I drove to CDA Id. and picked up a new lift pump at alligator diesel. I just finished the install and am getting between 15 and 17 at idle. I am hoping that I caught my lack of fuel pressure problem prior to doing any damage to the vp44. I would not want to have to buy ANOTHER one. So the moral of the story, especially to those of us with vp44 trucks, Get some damn gauges!

True. I have replaced my resistor and blower motor on two seperate occasions.

Hi folks! I have been doing commercial refrigeration for over 20 yrs. and thought I would chime in. All refrigeration and a/c systems are basically the same. They do vary when it comes to controls and components but the principle is constant. Here is a quick rundown of what takes place inside the lines of a typical refer. system.Refrigeration is a cycle. Starting at the compressor suction side you have a low pressure low temp gas. The compressor converts it into a high temp. high press. gas. The refrigerant is then cooled in the condenser where it changes state to a high temp. high pressure liquid. The liquid is then sent to a metering device, be it a capillary tube, thermostatic expansion valve, or an orifice. At this point that high pressure high temp liquid is forced through a tiny hole where it instantly loses it's density and pressure and turns into a low pressure low temp. vapor. This takes place at the inlet of the evaporator. When heat from the conditioned space is absorbed by this cold vapor it converts back into a low temp low pressure gas. It then heads to the accumulator which is a protective device for the compressor. The accumulator insures that no liquid reaches the compressor. After the accumulator the low pressure low temp gas heads back to the compressor to start the circuit again.

Thanks. I'll check on the relay. I dug around in the chiltons but the elect. schematics detailed wiring only. No specifics on controls such as relays. All the wiring for lights and switches originates at the "Front control module" which seems to be located in the IPM (integrated power module). The drl are fed by something that controls the pulse width of the electrical signal causing them to burn at a lower intensity ( as the book states). The same principle as a Frequency drive for for an ac motor, I suppose. So like you say, mindless, there must be a relay to change the path of electricity through the special modulated circuit for the drl's. Hopefully the relay is removeable and not integrated into a pc board. I'm gonna dig deeper. Thanks for the input.

well I finally poked my nose in the owners manual and it turns out only Canadian trucks do the low powered thing as lightning said. What they don't say is how to disable it. Now it isn't the end of the world either way, I'd just like to be able to turn em on and off when I want. Not when the Canadian government tells me too. I think I'll dig in the Chiltons and see what I can find out there. Let me know if you hear anything.