TFaoro

I've got a 5" FTE resonator and a muffler on my 4th gen. 
Before adding the FTE, I just had the muffler. I didn't notice any difference when I added the resonator in (EGTs, mpg, or butt dyno). I'm guessing my hp is around 385-400. I doubt you'd notice anything. 

That said - FTE is known to cause restriction. 

Do you own a code scanner where you could attempt to connect to the system? 

@Mopar1973Man I'm sure you have a wiring diagram you could point to.... I'd take some pictures, but I'm nowhere near my truck.

I typically see the same temps John did with his 05 in my 14. I have seen temps as high as 245 pulling a very long grade with 16k in tow. 

I'd be interested to see what my 2nd gen does, but don't have a sensor to install. 

2 minutes ago, Royal Squire said:

@TFaoro didn’t know you were still lurking around here!

Been a very busy couple years!   I plan to stick around for a while!

I like seeing the work you do.... but I'm not a huge fan of seeing your feet 

When I make it back to the states I'll have to come check this thing out!

@Gregturley new holes in your door or in the new mirror? 

I assumed it would be pretty simple. I would grab a set of wires from the junk yard so you can use the factory dodge ends without cutting up your harness. 

Is the bolt pattern the same on the mirror and door? If yours are power, how are you connecting power?

Thanks!

5 hours ago, Me78569 said:

lol not my engine.

Same article I followed to to mine yesterday 

19 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

I just past 1200 miles on mine, I would have to be loco to  delete it lololol

I figured if I had any issues they would have shown themselves by now.... either that or the dealer would fight me on it like the oil pan - so screw the warranty. 

16 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Heck, you've not even done the first oil change yet have you?

I'm sure @Me78569 hasn't and I still haven't done one since I bought it. Probably voided my warranty by not doing it every 6 months 

Got tired of the horrible mileage and choking the engine with exhaust.... I'm attempting to get @Me78569 to follow suit!

Hopefully picking up the EGR delete kit tonight. (Depending on if @trreed can get me the pan gasket)

5" exhaust with muffler should be here Wednesday

Pan gasket will be here this week one way or another. 

Hopefully everything will be done by the weekend. 

2 minutes ago, int3man said:

O.K.  So now I need to learn what the numbers mean on Turbos.  Is there a Turbo 101 anywhere?

 

I'm going to guess that the first number is the Inlet Diameter and the Second is the Exit diameter for the exhaust, but the third might be blade count?  I don't have a clue.

 

Thanks

Michael

1 minute ago, Mopar1973Man said:

I keep seeing that 62/68/12 combo which I fell would be a much better match than my current 60/60/12. Since I'm always on a limited and tight budget it makes it tough to jump into a fresh turbo. So I guess I can dream about it. 

 

Basically in a nutshell. 62/68/12

 

62mm compressor Inducer wheel diameter.

68mm turbine exducer wheel diameter.

12cm² exhaust housing cross sectional area. 

 

There is much more than that being the exducer and the inducer sizes of the wheels. But in a quickie that what the 3 numbers mean. 

You've got the first two numbers correct. 

The third number is the cross sectional area of of the exhaust housing. The larger this number, the better it will flow, but the slower it will spool. The smaller this number, the worse it will flow, but the faster it will spool. 

That's a horrible turbo for both a high performance single and towing. 

Sounds to me like you need to drop down to 7x.010 injectors with a

62/68/14, 62/68/12, 62/65/14, or 62/65/12.Those should be T3 turbos as well. 

Then get a quad with V2 and enjoy smokeless power. 

1 minute ago, Me78569 said:

Does your raceme show def quality?  

I don't think so....

Take a look at this PDF.

https://racemecanada-com.3dcartstores.com/assets/images/Files/DODGE RAM PIDS.pdf

Here to learn. 

@Me78569 if it would be helpful to borrow my RaceMe, let me know. My 4th gen is doing a lot of sitting, so I wont need it..... at least for now. 

34 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Strange... I've got to ask why did you buy the 4th Gen.  Little too much downtime on the 24V? 

Creature comforts  Once you have some AC blown on your rear your life changes

BUT The 4th gen only gets used for the longer trips. I've put 4K miles on it in almost a year, where I've put about 10-12K on the 2nd gen - most of those were hooked to a trailer too. It's pretty sad I haven't had the 2nd gen apart in almost a year too! Just did some wheel bearings recently is all. 

On 8/17/2018 at 2:01 PM, Mopar1973Man said:

There are a few members here that did the p-pump conversion but all I can say is the truck is no longer really daily drivable. Most of them after conversion end up buying another truck because of issues. Some of them sold the truck shortly after words. Some have parked them because of too much trouble for excessive smoke. 

 

I would highly suggest keeping the VP44 for daily driver being the Quadzilla tuner give a full range of timing control and fuel control. With the p-pump conversion, you lose all dynamic timing for static timing. Then there are other things like my truck is a fly by wire cruise control you would lose that function. There is nothing to gain with a p-pump. 

 

Now if you planning on dyno queen or quarter-mile track star. I'd say go for it. P-pump it. They do fuel more than a VP44 but you only need to make a quarter mile at a time. 

On 8/17/2018 at 4:19 PM, Frustrated 2001 said:

Ok thanks for the info looks like I will keep vp pump. I was wondering cause of intermittent power loss started a new discussion on that.

IMO the words I highlighted in red are incorrect. 

A well-done conversion is easily daily drivable. I do it all the time and tow more than most on here with it. 

Smoke is not an issue with a Ppump assuming you know how to use a screwdriver.

I believe there are many things to gain with a Ppump, especially if you want a higher HP daily. 

However, if you don't like to dive in deep and tinker with the pump until you find the happy spot, I'd stay away from it. 

All to often there are hack jobs who try to throw the swap together then sell the truck when it won't run right. That's purely mechanic error though. 

If you like the electronic control and don't plan on going over 600hp you should definitely keep the VP. 

@Me78569 if you want to drive down to Penrose I'll have a crisp $100 bill waiting for ya! 

5 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Trust me you heart falls on the truck floor when you know the transmission just failed.

Not me ! I slammed that SOB into 4th and drove it home!

Trevor should call me before he tries to show off in front of dum dums.

1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

... eventually, @TFaoro will just sell the 2nd Gen because it broke all the time. 

Can't do that. If I keep using the 4th gen the way I have been the exhaust will be plugged in a month. I will won't sell the old girl - I'll use it for everything around town from towing to getting groceries. The 4th gen will be used for out of town stuff. 

1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Ok, it just did... Now what?

And now that hell has frozen over, it's time to fix that oil leak  

7 minutes ago, trreed said:

It gets it from your truck!

 

Turbo is angry, VP is angry....  Can't wait to see what else is going to get mad at me!

Park it next to a 4th gen and don't drive it for a week or two. It'll straighten up! Mine just has an oil leak since I did that. 

11 hours ago, trreed said:

But of course, nothing can be easy. Yesterday I found out I'm pushing oil through a turbo. I'm betting its the secondary AGAIN. It was just rebuilt in December too. 

 just quit messing with it. It's getting tired of your crap!

@trreed what's the name of that site I sent you??

It had good oil rated hose for cheap - all sizes too!

Start around 20* and move up as need be. 
It would help to speak with your injector to know how high your timing can be while being safe for DDing.

On 3/28/2018 at 11:05 AM, crf450ish said:

I will use a thin film of copper anti seize then. The copper stuff is more resistant to heat. Not that it matters much in a cummins engine thats in good repair. 

 

EDIT: hey @TFaoro....U got any decent videos of your rig showcasing its power? 

No.... I try to keep my foot out of it haha. If I send it with full power it'll likely blow the trans to pieces.