TFaoro

I really like the ones Geno's sells. They're very nice. However, free cardboard vs 80 bucks.... I'm going to stick with the free until I'm making some money Jealous.... I do have a bit of a CR tuning question for you. After dropping the 100% overs in my brother's 05, it starts super slow.... like it cranks fast (new bateries) and fires right away, but once if fires it slowly revs up to idling rpm. Sound normal with big injectors? It has never come apart on me, and I wash my truck once a week! I think the heat from the engine dries it out very fast.

Nope, still between the radiator and intercooler.

I cut an 8"x8" square out in front of the fan clutch and have yet to have issues. Today I headed up a pass, which was about 5 miles and the engine was already at 190* the engine temp climbed up to 207 while doing some "testing" with the smarty. Like 55-75 WOT runs getting exhaust temps up and boost above 50 multiple times. Best thing is if I need it to cool off I hop out and pull the cardboard.

That's why I find the cardboard useful. I can have it out in 30 seconds if it's going to be a warm day, and drop it in just as fast if it's going to be cool.

The block heater discussion is very interesting! I think this last week it was around 30* when I was at home, and my engine temp was 120* after being plugged in for 5 or six hours. It was also in the shop, so it make sense with no wind it would be slightly higher than the 85 quoted above. Here's a video of what I'm talking about in the mornings. I plan to pick up new solenoids after class today.

Nope, it can stay together. It doesn't hurt the rubber at the temperatures I posted. If you put it in there at 300 it would probably fall apart.

Yup, droplets are too big. That's why it'll dump white smoke at anything under 50* and doesn't stop until it builds heat. Then it just has a black haze The pistons are higher compression. Checked with the engine builder I'm not sure if I could keep the head on at 90... maybe 65! On a side note, it's supposed to get down to 9*F next week, so I'll have to get this done asap. I'm sure it would start, but my neighbors wouldn't appreciate it!

If you think of it another way, who makes the injection systems? Not Cummins.... Bosch does. Thus Cummins endorsing a fuel additive doesn't even make sense. Now if Bosch came out with hard facts and data that proved a product they endorsed was superior that would catch my attention.

It has to be the injectors. It would start fine with the 125's, but now that it has 300's it doesn't like the cold without a grid heater. It's even got higher than stock compression pistons. (I think 17.3:1 but not positive) Alll cranking and idling timing is left alone by the quad.

2 stroke during the warm months. 2 stroke + white power service during the freezing months. Haven't used any this winter yet though. I'm more of a facts person, so a company endorsing a product means nothing to me. Just like Cummins endorsed Valvoline oil when all oils have to meet a minimum spec. You never hear someone say "I switched to (insert name brand oil) and it locked my motor up." Transmissions are a whole different story though... I'll stick with my 2 stroke and power service when it's cold

Stock can-bus message can be done very easily using level 1. Set it to a %, data log it, and do the math to get the original message. I'm not sure if someone in here knows how to interpret the fuel message related to how much the injector will actually flow. I've yet to see any equations relating injector flow rate, can-bus message, and actual fuel delivered. I would assume the "engineers" actually based everything off emissions. Make as much power as possible while passing emissions with flying colors. Of course they probably had some parameters in there to keep transmissions from breaking and longevity but I'm guessing mosed of it was based off of emissions. The other problem we have with trying to make an equation is different injector makers can have different curves for flow. DAP and Ducky may be way different for the same size and count hole injectors. Best advice I can give there is add fuel until you have a very slight haze at WOT for each boost parameter. From there you can fine-tune for drivability, smoke control, and egts. It works well, and you should play with it. Bumps the timing in the mid range up and makes the truck more peppy. Play with it and see what you think. Quad bases the scale % based on what the ECM is sending to the injection pump. So at 800rpm and 100% throttle the ecm may command 1500, but at 800 rpm and 50% throttle it may command 750. Whatever the ECM spits out is what the quad references. I don't think 4095 is a microsecond pulse width either.... have to talk to @Me78569 for that.

Can't plug in... I'm at an apartment complex while I'm at school, so there's really no way to get power out there. When I'm at home I plug it in every now and then, but even in -15F I haven't had any issues. What does it do when it puts up a "fuss?"

Getting some hard missing on startup in the cold (32 here this morning) so I think I'm going to have to bite the bullet and buy new grid heater relays. Never had a problem last winter, and it starts without loping, but I've got tons of white smoke and missing.

4BT swap with some beefed up suspension

You can install the bearing yourself using heat.... Throw it in the oven at 150 or 175 for an hour and it drops right on. Did it to my brother's 50k ago and it's still fine. I would opt for greasable but that's just my preference. I'm sure either way would be fine.

Your truck driving around =

It's in there.... at least it better be haha. I don't think that would cause it to shake though. Usually just U joints cause that. How's the carrier on the rear shaft? Rubber all intact and holding?

It's in between the u joints on the double cardan joint.

Your cad is locked in full time yes? Check the front shaft's U joints and centering ball. Maybe throw it in 4wd and see if a little pressure on that front shaft makes it bettor or worse.

It's an 00 so it should have vacuum. I'm really liking the newest timing change. I finally got a chance to do some around town driving and I'm liking the way timing ramps up. It no longer stays low when the power comes in.

Well my fan locked up again before I headed home. 125 miles at full lock... Guess I'll go exchange it.

Finally made it home and got my intake horn installed. She's a beauty! 65psi just fine with no boots blowing off. I think I might be able to run a 1200us tune on the quad and have decent egts. I tried an 1800us and egts flew to 1700 before I let off. Here's a comparison of the outlet for those curious. The S&B is also 3.5" so I'm running the adapter boot provided.

Driving home Monday I had some stop and go traffic, combined with some 75mph and some 65mph. Came out to 145-150 miles or so and netted 22.1 mpg running 19.8x deg of timing most of the way. Best I've netted with these injectors yet. I'm not expecting any better than that considering I have a haze at idle Yea.... I've maxed the quad pyro on the dyno and on the street. If I remember right the max it reads is 1,834*. Honestly I like looking at the numbers on my quad and have the analog gauges on the pillar if I want to just glance at them.

There is no possible way both turbos and the hot pipe only weigh 35lbs. The HX alone is over 25lbs by itself. I've shipped two of them, and including the boxes they were closer to 35lbs. The 66 is likely around the same weight as the hx considering it is larger, but does not have wastegate components / casting. If you consider an s475 you're talking about 52lbs hanging off the back. I'd be worried about cracks / bending in the hot pipe, and cracking the stock manifold since they are fairly common to crack under stock weight. You could easily make a bracket to mount to the drain on the turbo and support it off some of the manifold bolts.

Not sure what constitutes as high maintenance, but my parents have never needed anything. Usually suck out all the ash once a month with a shop vac, spray the glass with windex and it's good for another month. I've heard corn isn't ideal to use in them but have never tried it.