TFaoro

I agree with your first statement. @Me78569 I bet you are seeing lower egts because of the throttle position. It likely has higher timing in that position on the map, so it's dropping temps. Try switching your high idle switch to a cold temp and see if they come back up... As for my egts they start to spike around 2200rpm or so, then fly up from there. I think it's because the primary housing is so tight it's making really high backpressure and not allowing the secondary to pull as hard as it should. This morning I passed a couple people with a 1200us pulse. I laid into it at about 55mph, peaked at 95mph, 62psi of boost(maxed the MAP sensor), and 1734* on the egts. Someday I'll get a new housing on the 75.

My peak egts have dropped some (it seems) since the quad isn't overfueling before the turbos spool. Last data log was 1528* where before is could have been in the mid 1600s or more. It was about 84* ambient, so I'll just have to do more testing. Not sure about cruising yet as @Me78569 keeps making me put my foot to the floor!

Stock is DIRTYYYYYY!!!!

Got some more updates. The 17psi fuel bump has been fixed! Between the person writing the code and my settings on the quad it now smoothly transitions into harder fueling. When at WOT, it still gives a slight puff, but I'm not worried about that. Overall I'm very happy right now. The person writing the code might have some updates for me that could make things even better. I'm hoping to get some videos of stock tuning, old quad tuning, and the new stuff. I think you guys will be shocked at how clean 300hp sac injectors can be!

Sounds like it's time to guess.... I wouldn't crank it down, but I would make sure it's snug, then adjust the OTC until it gets stiff, then back it off until it steers properly.

If we could find a book that would help. I'm sure the pre-load is supposed to be a set torque.

I used axle grease (used on tapered roller bearings for trailers.) Is it right? Idk.... maybe, maybe not. I can tell you it's better than running them dry. Over time, the grease dries up and you're left with dry bearings. Then they start to make noise and fail. It's inevitable unless you grease them. I'd rather put 5w30 in my engine than run it dry....

Yeah, I've gotten one of those little pamphlets....OOPS! 50 miles on it this morning. My happy spot for level 1 is 75%. 70% it was just too lethargic. At 75 I get a tiny puff of smoke and boost ramps up to 40+ as rpms increase. I have a very hard time breaking 1,000* exhaust temps on this setting. Running as hard as it'll go from 0-75 exhaust temps were 985, and boost 42. All with just a baby puff of smoke when starting in 2nd. I did have it to the floor from the get-go too. No rolling into it. I'd get a video if I didn't have to steer, shift, and record. One thing I'm not happy with is level 2 (the new level 1) It seems to be defueled from what it used to be. It's acting just like level 1 for some reason. I'm still working on the can-bus tuning. I've got it to where low end smoke is very low. Just a slight haze and a puff. The puff comes out when the boost climbs above the 17psi threshold. The only thing I'm not satisfied with here yet is the jump once it's above 17psi. When I have it to the floor it's not an issue; Barely noticeable except the puff of smoke. The problem comes when I hold the throttle constant. Ex: When I hold it at 25% throttle the boost will steadily climb from 0 to 17 then jumps straight to 36 and the power comes in hard. I don't like the way it does that at constant throttle. I'm not sure if this is something I can tune out, or of the tuner can work on it. More to come....

Smoke isn't power.... I'd start by turning the star wheel a couple clicks and sliding the plate back. Are your EGTs high?

Let me start off by saying that I am in no way affiliated with Quadzilla or Diesel Auto Power. I was simply asked to test the new updates because I have big injectors, I'm familiar with the Quad, and I know the person doing all of the tuning. This person wishes to remain anonymous, so it will stay that way. On to the good stuff!!! So what is V2? Basically it's a way to gain more control over the tuning parameters, with an emphasis on CLEAN POWER. I've got big injectors, and I've driven my own truck enough that I can drive it virtually smoke free, but I have to be very careful with the right petal (even when set to stock) Here are the custom tuning parameters: Alright, let's start with the power levels: 0=stock 1=Power Percent (Explained later) 2=Fuel mileage (Same as the old number 1) 3=can-bus only (Same as old number 2) 4=can-bus + wiretap (same as old number 3) and so on to the maximum level set is reached. So, as you can see the first 8 parameters (through "TPS CAN Minimum") are the same as they've always been. They will function just like they used to. The next two have to do with wiretap fueling. The "Boost Pump Scaling" gives the %specified of called for wiretap fueling if the boost is below the "boost pump low limit" As an example:(Let's say it's set on level 10) In the pictures you can see I have the scaling set to 0% until 15psi. This means I'll get zero wiretap fueling until I hit 15psi of boost. If it was set at 50% I would get 600us of wiretap before 15psi. This greatly reduces the amount of smoke output without reducing your peak power. Next we have Power Percent. This is the "new" level one! Here we have the percentage of stock power called for at all times. This is perfect to use for emissions testing, letting the wife/kids drive etc. This is also another way to reduce smoke if you're wanting to be really clean. Next is boost scaling. This is the same as it used to be. Just a smoothing feature. Next we have PSI% listed 0-17 in increments of 1. This feature allows you to set the amount of stock power based on boost. It allows you to ramp up the power from 0-17psi, effectively reducing smoke and making the truck more driveable. Now for my experience with testing. Level 1: With my truck stock, I can floor it at any time and create quite a cloud of smoke. You'd swear I have a tuner cranked, but it's not. With my truck set to 70%, I can floor it while doing 55mph in 6th and get as big of a puff as a stock 24V. Meanwhile it'll pull about 34psi @ 2000rpm and 40psi by 2500rpm. It does make the truck a little doggy, but I could adjust the percentage up as I saw fit and still keep smoke to a minimum. This would be perfect if someone were to borrow my truck (never going to happen but you get the point) They could try to hotrod it as much as they want but won't be able to. I do think this would make emissions a breeze to pass, and it could be used as a safety device to keep the truck from being stolen. Essentially you can set it to 1% and the truck would only idle. Now for the PSI%: With the power level turned up around 1500rpm I can stab the throttle (0psi of boost) and get nothing more than a slight haze until the boost picks up and the quad starts fueling hard. Spool is still excellent under these conditions, I just need to work on my top-end fuel command to reduce the smoke up there. This has made the biggest difference in CLEAN power. The quad is essentially rolling into the throttle for you as the boost comes up so you don't cloud the highway when you get on it. Now the "Boost pump scaling" and "boost pump low limit": The wiretap fueling is essentially it's "own" programmer. It doesn't follow the rules of the can-bus fueling. This was taking effect in my description above because it doesn't wiretap fuel for me until 15psi of boost. Thus why it's only a haze until 15psi. Now, what I'm not quite happy with yet. Off idle, if I stab the throttle on level 1 I get a puff of smoke. I am told this is because of where the quad takes over and starts controlling things. It's being worked on and should be fixed soon. Other than that I'm very happy! I do have only 20 miles or so of testing, but this does look very promising. I'll be putting 50 miles on in the morning and 50 miles in the afternoon, so I'll have more info then. Any questions post em up and I'll do my best to answer them. The future of clean power for 24V's looks promising

Come on now give me some info on thoughts This was meant to be a discussion

Okay, click on Mike's link, then click "products" at the top of the page, then scroll about 3/4 of the way down and you'll see "oil filters - Diesel." They make a filter specifically for Cummins trucks, but for some reason I can't link it. Here's the description: Dodge/RAM Cummins 5.9L - 6.7L Diesel '89-13 / Stainless Filter: Consistent filtering across entire filter surface Superior ASTMF316 filtration performance 7 times the flow of comparable paper oil filters Magnetic Prefiltering Billet aluminum filter case doubles as an oil cooler Progressive rate bypass combined with high flow characteristics of the filter media avoids unfiltered oil bypassing the filter during cold startup and high rpm No more cutting apart messy paper filters for trapped debris inspection Proven in Motorsports, Military and Aerospace applications for years No more oily paper filters to the landfills May be the last oil filter you will ever buy! Click for Full Size Photo Dodge/RAM Cummins 5.9L - 6.7L Diesel '89-13 / Stainless Filter $289.00

I'll just leave this here.... http://www.scottsonline.com/groupitem.php?Item=2383&Groups=277 And DISCUSS!

It sounds like you have some bad wires. I'd start tracing the high beam wire(s) until you find the break / short.

Mine was a Ford 8n.... It's how I learned to drive! I love that old H though! Motor was rebuilt about 20 years ago and still purrs like a kitten

1939 International H! But it'll never be on the lawn.... I value my life

If there's one thing my mom is proud of its her lawn!

Sounds like your cooling system could use some servicing.... @95 ambient I used to run 1200* all day and see about 210 on the thermostat. Now that my fan clutch took a dump I can run about 1100-1150 all day and never break 197. What temp does your clutch engage at?

Hopefully it works out for ya! I ended up using a piece of allthread and making a slide hammer on it. Many ways to skin a potato

Manuals have it too.... At least mine does. Oh, and VIDEO or it didn't happen

Interesting read.... http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/2047754-stock-truck-egt-2.html

I don't blame you. They're expensive!!! So are you going to put some grease in them

But why is yours doing it? Is whatever grease that's left full of filings? That would mean it's new bearing time....

This is quite a question.... When towing I'll stay below 1300 on both pyros no matter what. Can it take more heat? Probably, but it's easier to drop a gear and make sure I get the load where it needs to go. On the other hand, I've pegged my Quadzilla pyro. It reads a max of 1834 (Not a typo) and I know it was higher than that. Engine still runs great. How long can it hold that heat before melting the pistons or the turbine on the turbos? That's the million dollar question!

You can NOT use that kit because you have a 99. You'll have to use the HD steering for your year, which is basically the same thing as the upgrade for the newer 2nd gens. The reason is the taper on the studs. They're different for the earlier years. Will they fall out? Unlikely, but I wouldn't want to take a chance.