TFaoro

I'll take a look and see what mine reads at idle the next time I drive it. Welcome to the forum BTW!

To start with make sure you have the supplies to complete the install: 1. Wire crimpers and strippers 2. Wire connectors 3. Gauge pod for the steering wheel 4. electrical tape 5. Add-a-circuit fusible tap 6. Tons of zip ties 7. Wire connectors with a round end for a screw or bolt 8. Two sided tape (Usually comes with gauge mount) 9. Fuses 10. Sockets, screwdrivers, dikes, razor blade Next the install! 1. Take the front knee board off and set it to the side without losing the screws 2. Run the wires for the fooler through the gauge pod 3. At this step you can either use the supplied glue to hold the fooler tight against the mount, or you can do as I did and add a bit of tape around the edge so that it fits tight and stays in place well. 4. Attach some two sided tape to the sides or the top of the mount. I recommend the sides because the top will lift the mount and make it look goofy. 5. Tilt the steering wheel all the way down and carefully slip the mount over the top of the adjuster. As you pull it down make sure you pull the edges out so the two sided tape doesn't get caught and ripped off. 6. Pull the wires around the back side so that they fit comfortably. 7. At this point route the wires that go to the air intake temp sensor and engine temperature sensor out through rubber with the wiring harness. Zip tie the wires to the steering column wires. around the 8. Cut away some of the white sheath to the hot and ground wires. Run the hot wire back and up to the fuse panel on the side of the dash. Attach this wire to the add-a-circuit fusible tap. I inserted the fusible tap into the #14 slot which is the 10Amp Cluster B. This has power full time. Really any of the links can be used, but I wanted my light to be on full time so that I wouldn't forget to shut it off. 9. Now attach the Wire connectors with a round end to the ground. I bolted this to the metal frame under the dash. It can be screwed anywhere it will ground effectively. 10. Now to the outside. Run the wires across the top with the existing wiring loom and zip tie them into place 11. Run the wire that goes to the engine temperature sensor (The longer wire) down to the grid heater wire, to the injection pump wires, around the front of the engine and plug it into the sensor. 12. Now run the wires back to the intake air temperature sensor. This is near the back of the intake plenum AFTER the MAP sensor. I zip tied the original connector to the existing loom to keep it from moving. 13. Cut all of the zip ties and inspect to make sure there won't be any rub spots. 14. Put the knee board back on and test it out. ** Let me know if I left anything out so I can edit it in! View full Cummins article

I wouldn't push a 5 speed much over 650. Really asking for it to explode then. As for the 6 speed they're pretty reliable up into the 700's and probably even 800's if driven properly. Just don't build huge amounts of torque in 6th gear. My brother's 05 nv5600 truck is making 724hp at the wheels, and since he has it overfilled 1qt with amsoil and never beats on it in 6th unless he's over 80+mph it's been a very good trans. Not all are as lucky as him though.

6 speeds split the 3-4 gap on the 5 speed. For high hp applications the 6 speed is stronger. 6 speed is much notchier to shift with any clutch. Can be a bit of a pita with a dual disc. 5 speeds shift smooth as butter with a single disc clutch. 5 speed CAN have issues with the 5th gear nut falling off. 6 speeds have bearing issues if they aren't overfilled with fluid. 5 speeds are significantly easier and cheaper to rebuild. Personally, I'd run either. I'd drive it up! Just buy my plane ride home

I don't. Yeah I live by that building. Heck of a nice looking truck!! I would make an offer if I had the money! Why so set on the 6 speed?

http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/5415303031.html Make this guy an offer. I don't think you could go wrong with it.....

1.69 here. I don't see prices recovering soon. With OPEC keeping the markets flooded, China's economy going in the crapper, and Iran being allowed to start selling oil it'll stay down for a bit.

Sooooooo, any ideas what the heck happened? Pulling any grades hard lately?

Hard to beat the 3rd gen trucks with how comfortable they are and how much more cab room there is. This is just me.... If you're on a tight budget, pick up a used engine (like you said) If you've got the money, upgrade to a 3rd gen with less miles, but be prepared to drop some coin on making it as reliable as your 24v. Labor isn't cheap, and he said he doesn't have the time.

Impressive. That's the only word I can use to describe it.

Given the miles, it will need a full head job too, and those can be expensive (ask me how I know) Used motor and roll on.....

Will do. What about the boost elbow setting?? All of this "testing" is destroying my fuel mileage At least it's not my DD anymore!

I'll have to check but probably level two, maybe level three. Thanks for the help BTW!

No, it's a fuel only box.

I did some more "playing" with it tonight. This time I set the smarty to level 3. Funny thing, the overall boost didn't change when I messed with the boost elbow, but the primary boost did. Boost elbow closed: Primary 20psi, overall 62, drive pressure 95Boost elbow opened: Primary 30 overall 62 drive 90.Not sure what the heck to think about that....

Same here... Napa core hasn't leaked yet.

I never noticed the settings being "fine" enough to "tune" it in right. To me they seemed like a go or no go. I can always try though.... Just for reference, the primary is the large atmospheric turbo, and the secondary is the small turbo I do have boost between the stages, but I don't and will never have drive pressure between stages. I know it sounds lopsided, like the secondary (small turbo) is working to hard when I say the primary (large turbo) is building 35psi and the overall is 62 BUT let me try to explain. The compressor maps for each turbo are given by the pressure ratio. That's how you determine how hard each turbo is working. So if we take the large one and calculate the pressure ratio we get (35+12) / 12 we get 3.9167 (35 is the boost the turbo makes, add the 12 because that's what atmosphere is here in Denver, and divide by the pressure the turbo is being fed at, which is atmospheric) Then we calculate the small turbo: (62+12) / (35+12) we get 1.5745. As you can see, the small turbo isn't even doubling the pressure it receives, while the large turbo is compressing almost 4x the pressure it receives. This tells me the primary is getting it's tail worked off while the secondary isn't doing much. Hopefully that makes sense.....

I figured it needed some timing. I wish the smarty didn't make it run so dang hot at WOT but I'll put it back on a different setting for now.... unless I pick up something new. I do wonder how well it flows. It's just a run of the mill phatshaft... can't find much info wastegate wise. Drive to boost is 1:1 up to 40psi, and from there it goes pretty lopsided. Do you think the small wheel and tight housing on the primary could be causing a decent amount of restriction? I've considered the 14cm housing, but I like fast spool! In my thread on CF one of the members is suggesting tightening the gate down so I have more control with the boost elbow. In his experience he said my gate is being pushed open way early by drive pressure. I figured I'd try it... I don't see why not. If it doesn't work I'll just change it back.

The primary is so tight and spools so fast it's hard to tell exactly when the gate is being pushed open. From what I read, drive pressure is pushing it open well before the 25psi it's "set to" I'll have to do that when the weather comes back up a bit. I did pull the smarty and do more testing... what a difference. Exhaust cleans up much better and egts don't fly up quite as fast. I lost a few psi of boost without it but drive pressure is WAY too high above 2500rpm. It's around 58psi of boost and 85-90 drive pressure. I'm not sure if the secondary's housing is the worst restriction or the primary's.

Article with general reference material?

SHOTS FIRED!!!

I would start with swapping another injector in that hole and see if the knock follows. If it doesn't follow, well I think you've got much bigger issues.

We'll have to chat some more about this when you get back! We did look into the oil burners, but the price is crazy! Like 3K plus you have to buy a tank and pump and all sorts of other odds and ends. I do believe it would be the best route, but better electricity is soaking up a bunch of the budget right now. Thank you for the suggestion though!