MnTom

Yabba, the temp here at my house right now is 19*. We will be close to zero by the weekend...... I am thinking about going full time in my fiver and chasing the warmer temperatures.......

I guess they are now you can get a Fleece controller here: http://www.xtremediesel.com/fleeceholsetvgtcontroller.aspxand here too: http://www.alligatorperformance.com/Fleece-FPE-VGTCONT82-EB-Controller-p/fpe-vgtcont82-eb.htm Those two came up in a Google search so I am sure there are other places to get one too.

I sure remember them. Also where I grew up was Earl Schieb paint jobs. Both are the same thing.

Still should be a decent turbo for the money.

If you drop the RPMs below 2000 while running down the road you will see a marked increase in fuel mileage. With mine towing my fiver I normally see 10MPG at 70, 12MPG at 65, and as high as 14MPG if I keep it below 60. Also, keep in mind that if you are running ST tires on your trailer, they are all rated at 65 mph top speed. Something else I do is run about 5 psi higher than what the tires are marked at on the side. I used to pull drop deck trailers (15" tires) for one company and we used to cary two spares on each trailer because the blew out so often. I went to another company and they had no spares on their trailers. I aske about the reason for that and they said they were running 15 psi more than the sidewall number and they rarely had tire problems. I also pulled a lot more oversize loads with them too. They were correct, even being over 34,000 on the trailer tires rarely did we have tire problems!

Let it warm up, but not to much. You don't want to heat soak the engine or manifold before temps are taken. I would let the temp gauge just come off the bottom then check each runner. Also check all six and write the numbers down. I would also check them more than one time so you can see a pattern to the temps.

I was quoted about $4k just to paint mine. How much did that set you back If you don't mind?

Hey, Will, the record low for Grand Forks was -43* on January 3, 2004 so you are probably thinking wind chill temperatures. Either way, it was mighty cold last winter. We had 75 days below zero here too..........

That is why I changed mine. AT $50 for the filter when I got my last one I figured about $5 per year for a good filter is pretty inexpensive.

Copied from http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=25047 There is a very informative article on the Jeep Liberty CP3 at the link I provided.

If you take a cup of hot water and throw it into the air at -30* no water will hit the ground. It will all turn to vapor.

I have been running a BHAF for the last 12 or so years without an Outerwares or a heat shield and have had no problems. In fact, I changed the first filter not because it was dirty, but I figured having over 100,000 miles on it I should just for grins and giggles. The filter minder I had on it never moved.

I just hope it helps.

Well, shoot. Lets try this again......http://www.atsdiesel.com/additionalinfo/3092164/47RH-RE%20Band%20Adjustment%20v1.0.pdf

Here ia an article about how to adjust the bands: https://www.atsdiesel.com/additionalinfo/3092164/47RH-RE%20Band%20Adjustment%20v1.0.pdf Here is something I copied for another forum (dodgetalk.com) 1. O/D Switch In OFF Position. 1. Turn control switch to ON position. 2. Overdrive Circuit Fuse Blown. 2. Replace fuse. Determine why fuse failed and repair as necessary (i.e., shorts or grounds in circuit). 3. O/D Switch Wire Shorted/Open Cut. 3. Check wires/connections with 12V test lamp and voltmeter. Repair damaged or loose wire/connection as necessary. 4. Distance or Coolant Sensor Malfunction. 4. Check with DRB® scan tool and repair or replace as necessary. 5. TPS Malfunction. 5. Check with DRB® scan tool and replace if necessary. 6. Neutral Sense to PCM Wire Shorted/Cut. 6. Test switch/sensor as described in service section and replace if necessary. Engine no start. 7. PCM Malfunction. 7. Check with DRB® scan tool and replace if necessary. 8. Overdrive Solenoid Shorted/Open. 8. Replace solenoid if shorted or open and repair loose or damaged wires (DRB® scan tool). 9. Solenoid Feed Orifice in Valve Body Blocked. 9. Remove, disassemble, and clean valve body thoroughly. Check feed orifice. 10. Overdrive Clutch Failed. 10. Disassemble overdrive and repair as needed. 11. Hydraulic Pressure Low. 11. Pressure test transmission to determine cause. 12. Valve Body Valve Stuck. 12. Repair stuck 3-4 shift valve, 3-4 timing valve. 13. O/D Piston Incorrect Spacer. 13. Remove unit, check end play and install correct spacer. 14. Overdrive Piston Seal Failure. 14. Replace both seals. 15. O/D Check Valve/Orifice Failed. 15. Check for free movement and secure assembly (in piston retainer). Check ball bleed orifice.

Don't feel to bad, Mike. Where I live we are under a Winter Storm Warning starting tomorrow morning. The prediction for my area is 6" to 12" of snow and just south of me where all my kids live the prediction is for 12" to 18" of the white crap. There is even a Gale Warning for Lake Superior 10 miles from my house.

Guess I haven't heard of to many vehicles failing because of to much maintenance.

Sounds like the one hub is a touch tight. The way I do it is tighten the nut while spinning the hub until it gets quite snug and the hub is hard to turn. Then I back off the nut without turning the hub until it is loose. Then I tighten it up by hand. Spin the hub and check for any play. If no play you are good to go. If you feel some play tighten the nut with your fingers until the play is gone.

Glad it turned out to be something relatively simple. That always makes a body feel better!

Have you scanned it for any codes? That could point to the problem.

Good possibility the out of round drum was the cause of the vibration. The shoes would rub harder where the drum was narrowest and cause you to feel it.

Chances are Ed's engine is real close to yours. It has a VE pump on it too.

I would recommend that you use a shop vac to clean the A/C drain. If you use compressed air it will blow that snot like stuff that gets in the drain back into the air box. A vacuum will suck it out.

Before I went and started throwing parts at it I would find a shop (could even be a HVAC/R shop) and have them go over the system with an electronic sniffer. If you were close to me you could use mine and do it yourself.

My advise is to change the hydroboost. When you pull the old one off make sure you flush the lines good before you install the next one.