Wild and Free

Nope the 80 is bigger and heavier all around including larger axle shafts. Do you get wheel hop when pulling and what tires and pressures are you running to be breaking things? You want the rear tires as hard as possible and if still getting wheel hop then you definately need a set of ladder or traction bars and this would solve most of the breakage issues. From your sig you are not making that much power to break from hp tq reasons that is why I ask what else is happening during the pulls.

Time to ditch the 70 and go to a dana 80 if you continue to pull you will continue to break things on the 70 unless you spend a lot of money and upgrade to all heavier parts in the 70. There are a few aftermarket mfgs of axles. Personally I would get a hold of Scheids or Enterprise engine and see what they reccomend.

Thats About the average size we have around my area. They don't get as big as they do down south because they only get a few months to fatten up before hibernation.

Yep I agree I can work with the one you posted above and modify from there, I appreciate this a lot thanks a bunch. What program are you using to do this with?

from what I underlined You get the point I am trying to make now. They have to apply for these positions internally so if it comes down to only one of any of these people being qualified per shift that is what I wanted to see. I realize there are scenarios that an outside super would have to fill on ocassion like if main super was off and fill in electrician was off leaving no others to fill in. I think that if the fill in was offset just one day from main super it would work for a fill in.

makes sense, could you try this scenario, say just 1 mechanic or just 1 electrician but not both are selected for these positions. I would think that if they were offset from supervisor by 1 or 2 days it would work.

responses in red you still need to remove 1 supervisor from the above sheet as I posted a couple posts above. --- Update to the previous post... it just so happens to be an IBEW local, its at a coal mine and they also run at all the local coal fired power plants. I am no longer in the union now that I just got promoted to management as a shop foreman a few months ago.

I see one flaw in the graph, you need to take one supervisor off this. There are 2 shifts each with the other people being correct. There needs to be 2 seperate overlapping but seperate graphs for 2 crews to cover, one supervisor per crew, each crew is made up of what you have on the graph minus 1 supervisor.

The tricky part will be trying to figure out how to schedule this if per say 1 electrician becomes a fill in. There still needs to be one available to work. --- Update to the previous post... Yes everyone needs 40 hours. The fill in time would be counted towards the 40. There are no part time workers here all are full time 40 hour workers salaried and hourly employees. We have to work with the #'s available unless the union deal for hourly workers doesn't pan out then other salaried employees from non related department would have to fill in.

At this time the company just presented to the union the option and offer to have hourly employees apply for fill in supervisor positions. we will see where this goes. but yes all will need 40 hours a week obviously hourly people need to work or have 40 hours accounted for and salaried people will always work a wee bit more than 40 but to make it fair to just say they work 4 tens as well. If the union deal falls through then other salaried people will have to be fill ins to relieve regular supervisor 1 day a week.

As the title says I am in need of designing a schedule for 5 day work week 2 shifts 10 hour each.4 mechainics,2 welders and 2 electricians per shift, 1 supervisor to rotate with each shift and work 4 10's as well with 2 fill in supervisors "One of which may be 1 of the 8 workers on that shift to make it even more difficult" to fill in for regular supervisors1 day per week per shift off. need it to work out so all will work 40 hours a week and there will always need to be a minimum 3 mechanics and 1 each electrician and welder scheduled for all 5 days.I think a rotating day off every week is the most fair way also, example would be monday off this week next week one would get tuesday off and so forth.need to cover 2 shifts 5 days a week with the numbers listed above. I am not good at designing things like this and tried many searches online to no avail unless I want to hire a company to design or buy a schedule.Does anyone have any ideas to make this scenario work? Need to have it figured out before the first of the year when the company goes to a 5 day 2 ten hour shift work week.

He drive like me.......I pay taxes for the whole road so I am going to use the whole road.

There are no more checks and balances, Our gov just through the constitution out the window and we now live under a dictatorship. If you haven't kept up with the news the overblown hyped up debt ceiling talk just got us a brand new form of government that both the house and senate stuffed down our throats, It is called the committee of 12 aka the new "SUPER CONGRESS" with unlimited powers to form and pass any bill it wants. with the president as the 13th member with veto powers. the house and sentate can not filibuster debate or anything else to discuss any bill they want to throw at us. They can merely give an up or down vote now. And the puppets in washington are Bragging about this totally unconstitutional form of gov they just forceds down our throats, say good bye to the second ammendment and lights out when they stuff through the carbon taxes with cap and trade schemes they have been unsuccessful to get passed up to this point.

Why where you following so close for then?:banghead:

I will never buy another rebuilt unit from O'rieleys as they are all Cardone rebuilds and not worth the little you save and the lifetime warranty. I am on my 3rd Cardone alternator from O"Rileys in 2 years on my wife TDI jetta and it is a 4-5 hour job to change it. Bearing have failed on every one of them. Only getting 20k miles from the rebuilts, I also put a cardone steering gear on my 05 ram this winter and it to is also loose again with only 5 k miles on it like the stock one I took off. O'Rileys rebuilt Cardone components...........Never again for me. They are cheaper than anyone else for a reason I have found.

See post #11. For stock turbo its best to just buy a new one. they can be had for 300-400 bucks for stock HX 35. You could also find a rebuild kit for it if you are comfortable rebuilding your own if this is the problem.

Actually I did, I have done it for 25+ years and have never had an issue but I do realize it could on a contaminated system. It would appear so. The sensor that came in the replacement hub was a bit longer than the oem sensor but it had 2 different thickness shims under it which brought it out to the same length dimension as the oem and the oem didn't have any shims.

Yep Mike thats exactly what it feels like. I will put the cable on that came with the hub then. Makes sense as it only does it at really slow speeds like less then 10 mph or even slower right up to the stop. I got pretty much the same response on midwest also. Hopefully it takes care of it even though both unit hubs are different brands. So much for trying to save a part and a few minutes of labor. --- Update to the previous post... Well I just got done replacing the abs sensor cable on the driver side with the one that came with the hub assembly. All works perfectly now after a test drive. I micrometered the distance to the tone ring and the oem sensor was the exact distance as the replacement with shims so there must be a difference in the sensors and are matched to the tone rings inside the hubs. Such a simple fix to a problem that wouldn't have been if I wouldn't have cut a corner and tried to reuse the oem sensor cable. Thanks for the input guys.

Brake system on my 02 4x4 was not opened up, problem started a few weeks ago after replacing both front hub assemblies. Just pressed brake pistons in and left them hang. Before starting it I pumped the brakes a few times to get the pistons filled and pushed back out. now ever since I loose my power brakeing after about 2-3 applications or prolonged applications like rolling to a stop sign ect. The pedal gets rock hard and there is a grinding noise almost like air in the system and a pump is cavitating sort of like the abs pump is acting funny. I have bled the brakes and get no air and the power steering is operating well and level is good. Brakes work excellent otherwise, not week or spongy ect but only does this after what I describe above. What am I missing. No brake light or abs lights on. I replaced the right hand abs brake cable as that one was ground up when the bearing failed but I reused the left one and shimmed it as it came on the new bearing, it was getting loose but hadn't failed yet. Don't think this is the issue as I would have an abs light I would suspect if it wasn't reading wheel speed correctly. Short stops or 1-2 short applications there are no issues everything works perfect. Anymore use then it acts up. No leaks anywhere either. I have had many issues over the years but this one has me stumped. Anyone ever run into this?

Speedy sleeve can be gotten at most any parts jobber just need the diameter of the yoke. U-joints and vibration felt in the seat of the pants are not the only vibration you can have a harmonic vibration you will not even notice. I used to work at a driveline/gear shop for a few years. The only way to know for sure is to have it spun up in a balancer. I would check for a groove in the yoke and pinion bearings first though, Also a big killer of pinion seals and bearings is the hanger bearing if you have a 2 piece rear driveline. when it goes bad the driveline jumpropes and you may or may not notice it.

Ask him if there was a groove worn into the yokes sealing surface from the previous seal and possibly should have needed a speedy sleeve. or the drive shaft it out of balance or the pinion bearings are worn.

That is one very old rig. and extermely small compared to todays mining equipment. Mike 20 gph is hardly a drop in the bucket as compared to roughly 100 gallons per hour on 3516 cat engines in larger mining equipment.The last mine I worked at averaged 35,000 gallons of fuel a day usage and they have since added a lot more equipment so it is probably nearer to 40k gallons per day of diesel.

If its white smoke with slight blue haze you may have a turbo seal out as when pushing oil straight into the exhaust will burn white in color as well. I would monitor oil usage and pull the intake tube off the turbo and see if there is oil on the intake side of the turbo, if not unhook the exhaust elbow and look for signs of oil in the exhaust housing.

You still need to check for codes even if the cel light in not on. there are few codes that will set a cel on these cummins. Use the key method and read and write them down as they scroll throught the odometer .Key on- key off- key on- key off- key on for third time but not to start position just ingnition on, after the third time on watch the odometer and see what codes pop up. Edit: I see you did check codes already.

Just how much ether did you use? We just had an engine at work last week that ran out of fuel and operators thought ether was an easier route to go also, now we have an engine with bent push rods and bent connecting rods. You chance taking out the head gasket as well and the fact you have a grid heater that will ingnite the ether and cause a nice internal explosion if you don't disconnect the grid heater relay.:nono:Ether is a flat out no no on modern engines. Another thing is if you removed the vp44, did you make sure the arrow on the half moon key was pointing towards the pump when you reinstalled it? This will create issues with timing as the key has an offset on it specific to the pump, they will have the same part # on them, it will run but not well if its install backwards. Did you check for current codes after the job? If not check for codes.