Wild and Free

Yeah a 2 inch leveling kit makes the front sit higher than the back, I installed the 2 in leveling spacers on my 05 ONLY because I installed a ranch hand bumper and it sagged the front down about 1/2 inch overall and with the 2 inch spacers raised it to 1/2 inch higher than stock which makes it sit level. I think they look dorky sitting higher in the front with nothing but the levelling spacer. My 02 I installed the heavy duty 988AA factory snowplow package springs and with the ranchhand bumper it sits exactly the same height as stock With the stock springs it sagged about 1/2 inch like my o5 did.

Sounds like fun.My neighbor just pulled a Military jeep style pickup into his yard that sounds like yours. Could yu post pics of it. would love to talk the neighbor out of it and do the same thing.

Thanks for the specs. I didn't have a book so I was just guessing at the high side pressure switch specs. :duh:Yeah you are right I typed it out wrong and corrected it. To much high and low side typing got mixed up. Great catch.

The relief will pop before anything goes boom. The entire system is designed to handle more pressure than whatever the relief valve is set at which I would guess to be 250-300 psi. The low side should and will go down as the compressor runs as the high side rises, when it sits turned off they will be near equal. when it cycles the low side pressure switch is what cycles it as the high side pressure switch is designed for a safety kick out. What will cause a boom is putting liquid freon in the high pressure side of the manifold with the ac running. When charging only charge thru the low side manifold "Blue" with freon can uprite.

Definately low on freon by what the video showed. Looked like the low pres switch was kicking it out. must be a 15ish psi switch.

That would constitute a fairly slow leak in the real world of finding it.If you can't find it with a balck light you definately will not find it with a sniffer. Like my last post stated if the black light fails just pressure it up and use soap and water and look for bubbles. This method never fails.

Yep injection system and glow plug setup is definately same style as Kubota. I would say that what you got. Yanmar is similar but it looks to be kubota as the color is kubota too. looks to be an older engine though but they are excellent very durable engines.

Yeah you might have leaked down then, I would just dribble more in a little at a time and keep an eye on the gauges. 250 is pretty high. You should idealy be in the 170-200 range on high side in 90* weather depending on humidity. I wouldn't worry too much about the low side as long as its in the 15-30ish range. Best way to find a hard to find leak is to evac the system and just pump it up to around 150-250+ psi with air or nitrogen and listen and or use a spray bottle with water soap mixture and spary down everything and look for the bubbles when you hit the leak. its Faster and cheaper and a lot less effort than continuosly adding freon and blacklighting/sniffing ect and all the hassle.

40 psi is too high for low side and 120 is too low for high side especially at 90*f. What is the humidity level?

Those pressures are normal when shut off. what is the high side pressure when it cycles rapidly?I usually don't even bother worrying about the low side when charging if its in the 20psi range is ok as long as it doesn't go into a vacuum or no pressure. The high side is the one to watch when charging. is the high side spiking when it cycles as usually when there is too much liquid in the system it will spike rapidly and the high pressure switch kicks it out. How many cans are in the system?

I read the story a few years ago and surprise is was A WOMAN

Looks like a Kubota engine. Find a Kubota dealer to find out what size and power is is. I would be more sure if I had a better pic of the injection pump side.

yes they do.

Did you do any port matching on the manifold and or turbo to maximize airflow? Where did you get the blanket from? I have been thinkng about getting one for my 02.

I figured it would thats why I transferred my original post with pics from it to the above post. I edited the previous post so people won't try it then.

Sounds like you all get beans now. Why does the following scene come to mind after reading this thread?

OH NO.........I was hearing the phrases "I Hope" "I Think" and "It Should" a few times in the last video. Did I sense the Aprehension level rising and confidence level is falling a bit?

Stay away from the AFE stage 2 kits. I had an issue a few years ago with it. The following was my original post with pics from TDR a few years ago. I just installed an AFE stage 2 dry s intake on my 02 and have noticed my egts had gone up about 100 degrees. I went to Billings for the NHRDA diesel drags. The first road trip since the install. When I got to the hotel I popped the hood and really looked at the intake and then reached under the air horn which is only about 1 inch directly above the turbine housing and the plastic horn was soft and mushy underneath. This really concerned me. Luckily at the Dyno event the local AFE rep was there and I showed him this and he realized the problem, took pics and sent them to headquarters. If you all look at how the air horn runs directly above the turbo It heats the air horn thus heating the air inside causing higher egts thus defeating the purposes of a "COLD" air intake. The real scarey thing is that it got the horn hot enough to make it soft and mushy. That was at normal driving egts 600-1000. If one were to be pulling hard at 1100+ temps for a distance I fear a total melt and possible fire and or engine damage from melted plastic being sucked into the turbo ect. AFE will get on top of this I hope and make it right. I am writing this as a safety issue. I will keep you all posted on what they are doing to help fix the problem. After he contacted the factory They claimed this kit has been out since 2000 and this is the first they had heard of a hot horn issue. The rep was then saying oh its the bigger turbo and maybe we need a disclaimer about running it on anything but stock units ect. They replaced it with a new stage one kit with outer wear and torque tube at no extra cost to me which I still run. If you can't read the whole post When I got home and removed the tube it had already deformed it from the heat but I failed to get pics of it.

The TNT is for all out performance. The REVO is just an updated standard tune. POD means power on demand which means you can leave the tuner plugged in and change settings on the go just like a regular comp box. Smarty JR has same tune as revo but only uses 3 programs instead of 10 it also comes with or without POD option to change sub settings such as timing and touque management ect. The JR is safe to run with stock trans and engine ect and doesn't require gauges. I run the standard smarty JR and it has more than enough gitty up and go for me. Here is the direct link to Bob Wagners site for the Smarty. http://smartypower.com/ It will give you more info than us trying to describe it.

No wonder you had to go home early, the bottle was empty and or the head was poundin.

I was going to say also that certain oils have a definate smell. I run amsoil and it REALLY has a smell to it for about 5K miles before it wears off.

From your description we have Otis without Homelink.

Was the oil level rising and what kind of oil are you using?

X2^^^^^^^^^^^^^ I am thinking he is looking for the digital overhead info monitor assembly.

I thought I heard something in the first vid about a whiskey bottle on the floor under a foot.