Wild and Free

Personally I always get the sleaved seals even if there is not a wear groove worn into the seal surface of the crank a sleave will prevent it from happening. Just peace of mind knowing that the crank surface will stay in good condition.

When you press the pump shaft out of the gear , the gear will remain sitting there as it can't come out unless the front cover is removed.

Vacuum pump is mounted to the back of the power steering pump and is below the Vp44 and neither interferes with the other.

Most auto parts store should carry them. Any shop that builds hydraulic hoses should have them.

OK then go with what Mike posted.

[quote=dorkweed;30315 3rd gens are capable of good mileage!!!!

Is the leak between the cover and gear case or the gear case to block?

Left side of the engine behind the fuel filter housing, the data link is just a connector hanging below/behind the fuel filter with nothing but a cap on it,dead end harness, and the map sensor will be obviuos when you see the shape of the connector which one it is that the quadzilla hooks up to. The other one right beside the map is the IAT intake air temp sensor.I can't believe the directions don't show you where the connections are. :shrug:There are pics around this site that show sensor and connector locations if you search.

The holy grale of all Rams.......The very rare and coveted 98 12v quad cab. very nice, wish I had one.

I think that a battery tender is different from a trickle charger and is better for long term storage. I have not checked into tenders for a while but have had classes that stated this over the years. Not sure how a tender differs from a charger right off "Will have to read up again" But just to put the bug out there that there is a difference.Tenders prevent scale build up in the procees it keeps the battery condition up versus a charger.

:banghead: Don't spread these extremely out dated facts around. This was true 75 years ago of the old cardboard / paper cased batteries from the olden days that would absorb moisture and leach out electrolyte when they sat on the floor/ground. This is as far from true as it gets with any plastic cased battery. It is just a tale that keeps going because great grandad remembers the old style batteries this pertained to. They go bad because they are already towards the end of their lives and the scale has built up on the plates and some that settles out to the bottom and touch and thus acts as a small load and drains the batts over time. By keeping a battery tender on them helps prevent the scale build up and does make them last longer, but being on the floor or in the vehicle or on boards doesn't make a hill of beans difference in modern batts.

Any new developments?

It finally warmed up above 0* actually going to be in the 40's for the week to come so I just filled with #2 for 3.45

From experience if the dash was pulled back for some reason I have seen the wire connections come loose behind gauge cluster and cause similar issues. Make sure everything is plugged in tight. If things were messed with look very closely at every single plug and make sure the pins and sockets are fully inserted into the plastic connectors. Many many times I have seen a single pin get pushed out when connecting a connector together. Especially if people go prodding around with a DVM they push the pins and sockets out when checking voltages if they try and intert the leads too hard. Also have seen people stretch the sockets out with the DVM lead and the pin will not make contact when plugged back together.People need to be taught to check wires for voltage ohms ect from the back side of the connectors where the wires go into the connector and not the front face where the pins and connectors are. In diesel school to teach us lessons on this the instructors would put clear nail polish on the connector pins and sockest so it would make you test them from the back side otherwise you would get no reading from the front as it was coated with a clear coating that couldn't be seen thus a lesson to check all scenarios when it comes to electrical troubleshooting.

You sure you don't have a bad brake pedal switch, if it sees a signal from a brake pedal switch it will kick out the high idle or will not let it engage. possibly neutral park switch also but it then shouldn't start, I am wondering if the remote start has been wired in correctly, I have seen remote start systems cause all sorts of issues on occasion.

Heh Heh Heh, some just gotta learn the hard way. Problem now is the first new battery has been compromised a bit now also from the bad battery. Might last just as long might not but it will never have the same power as the newer one.

Get a sample of the fuel from the tank or the fuel filter canister and see if it seperates. You should be able to see a difference as fuel will float on the water in a clear container. Some fuel does have a green tint to it. I say this so you do not go after a ghost and stick money into something you do not need. Is there a stain on the front passenger side of the block under head behind alternator? as this is where head gaskets can leak externally.

OH yeah Steve openowski aka opie. I met him at the NHRDA races in Billings a few years ago, I bought my billet op shaft from him. He has some good products.

Ha Ha Ha!!!!! Sometimes derailed threads are the best.

What did I start here? ................ Still no link from the OP as to what the thread was supposed to be about. --- Update to the previous post... Here you go you can play with sasquach all you want. http://www.jacklinks.com/#SubChannel_Sasquatch_MessinWithSasquatch

Dually what is teed into the rad hose in the pics? I am assuming it is a relief from or extra flow kit from the rear soft plug to help with #6 cooling and prevent softplug blowouts from high rpm coolant flow/pressure. Or do you have a liquid cooled turbo?

I corrected his spelling.........Goes by the name of Mike Nelson aka mopar1973man reported to be big and hairy and likes to hide in the woods. some call him sasquach. :lmao::ahhh:

Figured I would share this site with all. I recently had a bearing start to fail on my 03 VW TDI, bearing was the ac compressor pulley bearing, I removed the pulley and removed the bearing and thats when the fun started. Found out real quick it was a specific application bearing and nobody could find or get one. Finally after doing a search online for a couple hours found a few other superceded numbers for it and searched those, To shorten the story a new compressor with new clutch would have been 350 bucks, and get this to by just the clutch assembly alone was 450 bucks. So after searching forever I came across this site and got a new bearing for 33 bucks shipped. savings of over 300 bucks plus the hassle of not having to evac and recharge the ac system. http://bearingsdirect.com/store/inde..._detail&p=3464 Hopefully this will save someone time and lots of money in the future.

Response in red.

I see lots of talk about ARP but if you dig and research A1 studs have better corrosion resistance than ARP studs and are the same strenght as ARP and more reasonably priced also. I have seen ARP studs come out that are only a year old and are totally corroded and rusted already. Just an FYI use it as you will.