Wild and Free

Either or. Most all aftermarket turbos are the schweitzer borg warner s300 platform. some of the newer turbos are the s330 but the s300 come in either the cr or 24v setup, there are many sizes and variations of it. Direct answer. It would be a direct replacement if he stayed with a cr style turbo or if he wanted to swap to a 24v 2nd gen setup then he would need to swap manifold and downpipe and repipe the intake tubing to fit the to the airfilter and to the aftercooler.

From what I know and read the stock CR with electronic fueling/timing enhancements really like the 62mm size turbos as they spool up close to what stock turbos do where as they can be a bit laggy on some 24v 2nd gens.

The stock turbos on the CR's are really good turbos, Get another and tell him to alter his driving foot control habits and turn the Edge down a bit.:banghead: --- Update to the previous post... If he want to go to a different turbo the next best thing is to swap it over to a second gen 24v exh manifold and put an S300 based turbo on it and replumb the intake tubing. This is what many people are doing as the 24v parts are more widely available and most times cheaper and it also raises the turbo up from the lower position it sit on the stock CR and out of the elemnts from the opening in the wheel well and get it up higher just like the 2nd gens were. also need to go with a second gen down pipe. In the long run it would be worth the trouble in my opinion if he wants to hot rod it.

In 01.5-02 they did away with the CAD system and went with a solid full live front axle. The only engagement for 4wd is in the T-case making it more reliable and less of a headache. Same goes for the brakes they came with 4wheel disc brakes in 01.5 also.

That is where we put it, drilled a hole and installed them in the cover, if they didn't want to spring for a fast cooler. The fast coolers Have a temp sensor port IIRC. We sold and installed lots of those along with the gauges also, the more capacity the better on these things. Pulling heavy in direct drive is the best, its when you are pulling in OD aka 6th gear is when they get hot fast.

Reread my post above yours if you pull heavy, I added to my original post.

If you are close to Oklahoma City or Tulsa, I highly reccomend Inland Truck Parts and Service I used to work at the Bismarck ND store for a few years in the full service truck shop side of it. This company can get you anything for it you would ever want to get be it a swap or reman tranny or reman your tranny or parts to do it yourself. I have seen many rigs that were stock literally melt the input gear off the input shaft and turn the input bearing into molten lava just from the torque that these cummins will put down, I feel it is more important for guys who pull heavy with a manual tranny to have a tranny temp gauge than the auto guys. When working at ITP we talked many Dodge guys into tranny temp gauges and they all came back thanking us profusely as they did not realize how hot they would get and how fast the temp drops by dropping 1 gear in heavy pulling situations.

Yep and it isn't just a problem with the vp44 either, GM and Ford have had similar issues on different engines with engine mounted ecms and control modules frequently going bad.

Just a side note about vacuum on the system, I have seens many many systems with slow leaks that hold a vacuum for infinity but add pressure to the system and it will be dead in a few days or less. So do not trust your system based on a vacuum test alone. It will let you know if there is a big leak but won't help on the small ones. As far as adding oil to the system................Don't do it unless you replace a lot of components at the same time or blow a high pressure hose and it blows a lot of oil oit when it blew, the compressors come precharged with all the system should need to operate great. Too many times people add too much oil and then have a poor performing ac system as the freon capacity has diminished.

Any new developments here?

If you shop around you should be able to find a gasket kit for it.

380 and 382 are grid heater relay codes, do you have the grid heaters unhooked or taken out? The 1693 is nothing just says there are codes in the ecm/pcm the 1689 is a no communication code between the ecm and injection pump. I would check fuses connections grounds and clean them and clear the codes by unhooking the batteries for a few minutes if you don't have a code scanner. then start it and see what comes back.

What pople don't realize is that the injectors on newer equipment no matter what it is has just as finicky of fuel systems and requirements as over the road vehicles anymore. Frequent fuel filter changes and clean fuel are still required just like any other engine. Problem I see is farmers with the old rusty fuel tanks at the farm and in the bed of the truck ect that have never been cleaned and then they wonder why they go through injectors and pumps on their new tractors.......... Or I have seen them pull the fuel nozzle out that was full of dirt and just pump it in the tank without wiping it out and the same with dirt around the fuel filler neck. Some people just don't care until its effects show up and then complain about the product rather than their practices.

LOL.............. I was just saying what a nitrogen compressor is capable of.

The most common way to find a hard to find leak is to use air pressure. We usually use nitrogen as you can get more pressure inside the system but air works ok too. If it is a good leak 120 psi shop air with a regulator adapted to the charge fittings will find a leak but most times it takes about 150-250 psi to find the leaKS YOU DESCRIBE. which is why we use nitrogen as the nitrogen compressor will go to over 4000 psi.

That is how turbos explode themselves in an overspeed situation. I like to use the Vacuum cleaner as an example. When you put your hand over the hose and it speeds up is it working harder? No it is in a vacuum where there is no more load and it has actually speeded up. This is the same concept as when you are running with a plugged air filter and why it is very bad for a turbo as it actually can overspeed and dynomite itself. Drive pressure at/in/before the turbo is different than backpressure from a muffler. Don't confuse drive pressure with back pressure as they are 2 different things.

The "Right Stuff" is the best of the best when it comes to a silicone type sealant.

I have seen 2 engines off the top of my head that failed due to RTV. 1 had so much rtv inside the engine is completely plugged the oil pickup screen, the other was used in place of a gasket on an oil cooler which you can imagine what happened. RTV doesn't hold pressure. lost all the oil and spun some main and rod bearings. Both do it yourself mistakes that could have been prevented with proper cleaning and gaskets. Where, what type, and how much sealant is the thing that most people don't have a clue on. In most cases it is best to leave it out of the equasion unless there is a need for a specific product in an area. Most leaks are caused by a dirty uneven surface and improper torques which cause warping ect. I do this for a living, these little 5.9 engines are like a lawn mower engine to most as I work on half million dollar v12 and v16 diesel engines so I know a wee bit about how critical leak free needs to be as "MSHA" Mine safety and health administration Can slap extremely high fines on companies for leaks on equipment.

Throw the silicone and copper spray in the garbage can and almost all your head aches will be cured......Put the gaskets on dry and clean and they will seal. If they needed something else to help them seal they would come with it already infused into the gasket.

Never replace one battery at a time, Always replace them both as a matched set. The system with 2 mismatched batteries is only as good as the week one. as it will drain the good one down to its level. Also keep in mind that High CA or CCA is not always the best battery, The higher the CCA the less reserve the battery has. meaning it may have more power but will only crank for a minute before being dead whereas with a lower CCA battery it may have a few less amps for cranking but will crank for as an example a couple minutes before going dead.

Check valve is in the fitting that screws into the heat exchanger on the side of the block. The back one if I remember right. Nothing but a rubber ball that sits inside the fitting and allows oil to flow forward but prevents it from draining back to the tranny.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ X2 I agree 100%.

I would lean towards the tranny myself. I have heard of bearings siezing up in the tranny and cause those same symptoms. Could be a seal issue in the converter also. If it is flooding the converter with too much oil it will not drain as fast as it is filled and it will go into a stall tpe of condition and pull the engine down, will be more noticeable with cold oil than warm oil.

Did this happen after the tranny cooler install? If so what size are the lines as compared to the factory lines? Did you bypass the heat exchanger on the side of the block? If so It could be a restriction that won't allow the converter to drain properly and fast enough and causing it to flood with oil and cause what you are seeing.