Wild and Free

It will not leak much oil out at all if any. It should be around 20+ inches of vacuum. To test the CAD diaphram itself you will need a vacuum test pump. Can get them at any auto parts or tool shop pretty cheap. Below is just to give you an idea of what it is. You can get less fancy non brake bleeder testers as well. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00920930000P?vName=Tool%20Catalog&cName=AutoSpecialtyTools&sName=Auto%20Hand%20Tools&psid=FROOGLE01&sid=IDx20070921x00003a Our rigs do not have auto locking hubs. They are live axles with a center disconnect on the passenger axle. If you can justify the 1200-1500 dollar cost of the manual locking hub conversion they are not a bad idea.

If you have vacuum then use a vacuum tester and make sure the diaphram in the cad isn't blown or cracked. I have seen the sliding collar break and the shift collar has wear strips that can fall off and it will not move the collar far enough to engauge also. just some other things to check. Remeber the cad only has 4 bolts holding it on and only takes a couple minutes to remove to inspect it.

Glad you figured out what I was trying to teach you, It is easier to understand when you get walked through it I guess. Good to hear you are cool again....

Makes good sense but how do they go about phasing it?

I do not have cable or satelite but I hear about the show. We had a couple of local guys from Mandan ND in the race a couple months ago. Maybe the show thats on now hot sure. They drove a white with black lettering custom Honda or Toyota I believe.

X2 on the above highlight^^^^^^^^^^^^^

When I worked at a truck shop and did these regularly I used a short 90 degree screw driver to get on the back screw. Here is what I use. http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_10155_12602_00947477000P?vName=Tools+%26+Equipment&cName=Hand+Tools&sName=Mechanic+Tools

The drivelines may need to be balanced. Find a driveline shop and take the shafts there and have them rebalanced. Some machine shops may even have the ability to balance them.

I see a scary trend taking place again..................... Do your research people. You need to throw the K&N filters in the Garbage asap. As MnTom stated they are not a quality filter as the advertising may make you think. I have Oil analysis results on my own rig before during and after the K&N filter I tried and it was shocking to say the least as to the amount of silica I had during the K&N filter days.

Glad to share......... What I like about the camp fire equipment from the site "Other than the pots and dishes" is that it would be super easy to make all of it at home if you have a welder. That way you can save some $$$$$$ and spend it on the food and fun instead of the equipment.

Check out the products and recipes of this site. It used to be on public TV a few years ago and my wife and I really liked watching it to learn new ideas. http://www.campfirecafe.com/recipe_vault/CCTV_18cowboy_cookware.html

Did you figure it out yet?

Did the shaft have any wear rings on it from the previous seal? They are hit and miss my 02 has 112k on it and the seals have never leaked. I check it regulalry just to make sure.

Are you sure you put the TV valve linkage on the right way after you dropped the valve body down? It will install upside down or backwards can't recall right off and throw off the TV setting and cause the symtoms you have.. I know this from first hand experience.:banghead:

The mirrors have an auto dimmer function. You can turn it on so it dims when a tailgater has brights on.

Here is a link to a DSS there are many many places to get them. http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=BD-1032004 Here is a link to a gear box and is the best option I know of for now. http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=BORG-800112 And if the steering wheel to gear box shaft has play. http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=BORG-000950

100% normal for the second gens. The best fix is the replacement 3.3 turn gear box to replace the 4.5 turn box that they have in them. I did this on my 02 last fall and it now steers like my 05.

Do you have anything else done to the steering already like DSS, 3rd gen track bar conversion, Borgesson steering shaft? All of these will help tighten up the steering. Have you checked all of the tie rod ends and track bar end and steering shaft for play yet. These will all give loose steering. The reason I ask is because the amount of "Tightness" the gear box adjustment can give is minimal. If it is loose it is best to just replace the box.

There is a simple test for excessive blowby for all engines with the use of a manometer, any shop would probably let you borrow one. The procedure and good or bad specs is in pretty much every engine manual I have ever seen. I don't have a manual but if someone does could you post up the procedure from the FSM for him please so he can see how easy and simple it is.

Did you plug the other switch back in before trying to jumper it? If there was power to the low pr sw then the fuse is good but you could try and switch one relay with another and retry as most of the relays are the same..Plug and play there.

You are correct in calling it an accumulator as it accumulates debris and moisture, I am old school and have always called it a dryer from the older systems. Some systems have an accumulator and a dryer to make things even more complicated. You jumper the wires of the wiring harness together after you disconnect it from the low pressure switch on the accumulator. As I stated before it will either make a ground so the clutch will engage or it will send 12 v+ to the compressor depending on the system. The low pressure switch is the on - off switch for the AC system and the high pressure switch is the "Breaker" so to speak.

Make sure the vacuum lines are not cracked where you knocked it off and where it runs along the harness under the cowl as it could have been damaged when you were r&ring the valve cover ect.

I already told you where it is and that it is safe to jumper the treminals in it together. It is a black canister about 8 inches long and about 3-4 inches across with 2 pipes coming out of it and the switch directly on top of it mounted to the firewall on the passenger side.

[quote=JOHNFAK;11201 Yeah - I never know the technical term -> switch/sensor - plus I'm an aussie so sometimes that doesn't help

The one on the compressor is the high pressure switch and you do not need to touch it. the dryer is by the firewall on passenger side and has the low pressure switch in it. the terminals there can be jumpered to see if the clutch will engage but there and there only is it safe to do so. But do not jumper power FROM anywhere just jumper the 2 terminals with a wire in the connector to each other only. On an AC system the low pressure switch makes the circuit and the high pressure switch breaks the circuit. This is only true for this style system as there are other systems that only use low pressure and or high pressure and or thermatic switches ect ect...... But not to confuse I won't go any further into this......