Wild and Free

Nope... no different than any other Axle, open is always the standard unless dealer or customer orders them with Limited slip, also certain packages may have it as a standard option.

Not sure about a "Reset" per say but you can set the sublevels 1-5 within each main level 1-5 . Been a while but I think you need to hold both up and down arrow buttons for a few seconds until the LEDs start blinking then use arrows to adjust sublevel, it has to be done in each level, to set you just use power button and turn it off and on again.

Front is purely set for handling, ride, and tire wear only. Rear is set at a pressure to where I can handle a trailer within means no matter what, because I never know when I may end up with my stock trailer or gooseneck on back at a moments notice for one thing or another and depending on the circumstances may or may not have access to an air compressor when and where I need. I would rather be a bit on the hard and safe side than soft and uncontrollable.

I never try anything on old suspension components without the aid of some gas treatment first "torch" nows the time buy some polyurethane bushings now and eliminate yet another week link.

Apples to oranges on both sides. Engine specs are done at flywheel on a water brake dyno in controlled and specific environments with probably a large amount of engines to get a large pool to average from. All else is as varied as our individual finger prints and DNA...............................................No amount of calculations and banter will change that. Change the humidity and temp by just a few digits and things change very quickly even if everything else remains equal. Plus no matter what any specs are every hunk of iron is a very different animal even if they come off the same assembly line and are finished by the same person or robot on the same same day ect.

This subject is kind of like all the liquid pressure versus flow debates. Does a Vacuum cleaner suck or blow?....................depends on which end you are on.

My lope started when I installed the HRVP44 fresh from II with everything already in place, with an SO pump no lope added HRVP and it loped and put 90K+- on it that way up until I sold the 02. Just a few months before selling it I swapped from 155 bd injectors to 100 hp Scheid injectors and it made the lope a wee bit less but still definitely there.

My 02 had a really good lope with the HRVP44 from II and was the worst at full operating temps on hot days, cooler was less pronounced than hot conditions, It was like a top fuel dragster lope with smarty on top of the HRVP44 with the 155 injectors and was totally undrivable no matter the Edge comp smarty stack combinations and was when The smarty went down the road for it.

Metal hardness on one update I know of.

Solving for engine horsepower using the ET method. This method uses the elapsed time needed to complete a quarter mile run. It is used to give an estimate of vehicle(car, truck, motorcycle) engine or motor horsepower. Weight should include the mass of the vehicle, driver and passenger. http://www.ajdesigner.com/phphorsepower/horsepower_equation_et_method_horsepower.php And other options of calculation. http://www.iprocessmart.com/techsmart/formulas.htm http://www.wallaceracing.com/et-hp-mph.php And if you really like details then this is for you. http://www.stealth316.com/2-calc-hp-et-mph.htm

Westach. I perfer function and reliability over looks.

With the long list of safety features it appears to have you may loose a few "Limbs" while using it.

Kinda like the first gen "Running" saws, called them running because they were 40 feet long and you needed to run with them to saw the tree down.

I have never gone by any formulas on fronts it is always by feel, handling and tire wear and the last several sets on both the 02 and 05 like 55 psi the best and I had / have full replacement ranch hand bumpers on each as well. Rear is totally dependent on load 60 empty 75 loaded depending on ambient temps.

I was never aiming to make mine like new, if I add parts its because I want it improved better than new. The reason for a faster gear box is to make it way better than the 2nd gens ever were as new even. Nature of any beast with wheels and tires is the steering components will all eventually wear out. Like an old timer once told me about parts and equipment and brand name arguments, if there were anything built that was perfect we would all be out of work. I have driven many brand new vehicles that wander just as bad as some old 50's and 60's cars that were worn out with bald bias ply tires, I find 90% or more of wander issues are tire and road related. I have done tire swaps on many vehicles where I went from no wander to not being able to drive a straight line unless I had a few brews in me and visa versa. Even as little as 5 psi or less difference in front tires makes a huge difference with this as well. My 05 is like this fronts at 50 psi and I can't keep it between the lines, 55 psi perfect, 60 psi and it rattles the teeth out of my skull.

Most Mustang Dynos are load cells but can be used as inertia as well, did you do the runs loaded or just as inertia with no load and simply running up the drum uncorrected? Is your comp hot unlocked or not, Probably could have hit 450 and 1000 with comp alone on 5X4 which has always done better on my runs as well as a lot of others I have seen over the years. My 02 was 560 hp fuel only with silver 62 BD 155 sticks and hot comp and II HRVP44 which only gained me 40 hp over regular SO pump. With this setup and injectables 600 would be easy, silver 62 was a fun turbo.

Remember this will do little at highway speeds where steering effort is extremely low as compared to very slow speed turns and especially on dry pavement or concrete where this would be of more use where steering effort and frame flex as a result is the greatest. So to say this takes the wander away at highway speeds to any measurable degree is doubtful from the 3 I have installed on my own rigs I can say it did nothing for the wander on the highway, setting the caster to the positive most adjustment "Free" and a 3.3 turn gear box did the best of anything.

The little bit of adjustment in the arena of maybe a couple degrees angle there is on the cams isn't even close to being enough to start being an issue unlike lifts making inches of angle difference.

Max out both sides, the more the better and you can not get too much on our rigs even maxed out you might get 4.5* positive which is still in spec.

I have posted my results numerous times across the boards and having had three 2nd gens and having done every single steering mod to them in different sequences and trials the best of the best upgrade overall was replacing the 4.5 turn box with the 3.3 turn box, hands down the best mod of all I ever stuck into a 2nd gen. See if Rancherman pops in he just installed a 3.3 turn box from a co-worker who rebuilds them. http://www.bluetopsteeringgears.com/

II silver 62 turbo, ATS intake and Exhaust manifolds, BD 155 7 hole injectors, BD TC and VB in otherwise stock auto tranny. Fass HPFP 150 transfer pump, II HRVP44 Edge Comp Hot unlock "Can't remember the version but it was the older one that did better HP / tq #'s than the newer versions, I tried several over the years, kept having the glitch of the comp not wanting to power on when cold or if it did it only lit up a random leds and did not do anythingwhich after about 6 version changes they finally got it" 5x3 & 5x4 ALWAYS did better than 5x5 on the comp by 5-15 hp consistantly. 3.54 gears with 265/75/16 tires most of the time. For 600+ you will need to get into twins or a 64-66 size turbo or run injectables with a silver 62. 150 injectors should get you there but will be close to max on fuel only. At elevation I would not even consider a bigger single I would go twins hands down no questions asked, even if I were to ever go the route of performance again it would definitely be twins right off the get go. On an inertia dyno you have no worries of that especially if running in 4th. You are already rolling at a fair speed when getting on it hard not like doing a dead stop launch on the street, do not worry about that in this arena especially if you are under 500++hp which you are..............No worries. Do it in 4th and 5th if you get the chance just to see the difference it makes in the TQ #'s.

Personally for me on a bumper pull cargo trailer with only two axles I would stay at or under 25 foot unlike a travel trailer campers which usually have the axles a bit more forward to balance the load better and give a more stable ride. Go to some local race tracks and look over what they run and ask some questions there, would be about the best info I could think of to get honest answers on this subject.

The drum is a set weight and the computer measures engine rpm versus drum speed and then there can be many different settings within the programs for elevation humidity ect ect and can be a corrected or uncorrected number based on a whether or not a lot of this info was entered which on dyno days it is not so it is uncorrected numbers which is a ball park figure within +-10% accuracy. Most guys are deathly afraid of load cell dynos because to do it correctly you are doing in essence what you do with a pto dyno and load the hell out of it and run it up through out the rpm band and hold it for several seconds and do it over about 2-3 runs to get averages of different load / rpm ranges. I ran on one of these in Billings at G&J diesel days and this thing will make a lot of rigs beg for mercy and a lot did have failures on the dyno due to the constant load being held for several seconds. This separates the men from the boys and quickly weeds out the talkers because these are the true corrected numbers gotten the proper way versus a weighted drum inertia dyno where uncorrected numbers usually show higher than they actually would be on a load cell. On my 02 I would regularly see 560 hp 980 tq on 2 different inertia dynos locally but one was a load cell that could be used either way and upon doing it as a load cell I would drop about 15-20 hp but gain about the same in torque this at around 1800 feet elevation, at G&J diesel in Billings at approx. 5500 feet elevation corrected numbers I was roughly 30-50 hp/tq less as on an inertias at 1800 elevation uncorrected. I also ran a few timed drag races both 1/4and 1/8 mile and I found that your ETs & reaction times can be used to figure HP as well and it is very accurate when you plug the numbers in I came out almost to the exact #'s as on the dyno. I had horrible asleep at the wheel reaction times but really good overall run Et's and I could not figure that out until someone explained this to me and said I make really good HP down the track to make up the difference this is when I started comparing #'s and was surprised by it.

This is totally dependent on if it is a load cell dyno that puts a load on things for you which if calibrated is the best and most accurate, or an inertia dyno, the most common but less accurate in this case then John's advice is best.

Intercooler boots are the most common thing I have seen blow on the dyno. make sure the clamps are tight before doing it. The other failures come from guys running too much Water meth or nitrous. At the big dyno events the Dyno owner / operator runs all rigs on the dyno to get a better more accurate run from all rigs, he will ask for the basics from you and then make a few feel runs to see where the tranny wants to kick down at ect.