edcasey

Before the Prodigy came out, it was my Brake controller of choice. I still have them in both my personal vehicles. The Prodigy is a little easier to use because you don't have to set the level and the digital display is better than the LED but if it works I wouldn't replace it. Here is a link to the installation and adjustment manual. http://www.marksrv.com/brake_control/voyager_manual.pdf

Is it this one?

I've always been a big fan of Tekonsha products. I've probably installed a couple thousand of them over the years. For the price, Tekonsha Prodigy's are hard to beat. I've also have installed about 30 BrakeSmart's. They are a hard sell because of the price but the performance is awesome. The hydraulic sensor system is much, much smoother and consistent than an inertial or time activated brake controller. Once you tow a trailer with a BrakeSmart (I have no experience with MaxBrakes), you'll find the performance of other brake controllers to be disappointing. If you don't mind spending spending the money, they are the way to go.

Great idea for a new forum. I spent 15 years working as a Master certified RV tech and service manager. Unfortunately, the industry went down the drain, in my area, when the economy took a nose dive. 10 years ago I built a cargo conversion camper (hard to believe it's been that long) with all the parts I had piled in my garage.

Your new write-up looks great. This is one of the best mods I've done. Easy to install, inexpensive and fixes both problems with the puke bottle.

The problem is that there where several different turbos used on our trucks depending of the year. Here are some examples but there are many more part numbers. TC-HX35-3539373 TC-HX35W-3533318 1996-1997 5.9L (180hp) Auto TC-HX35W-3592428 2001-up Dodge Ram 2500.Cummins Diesel Turbocharged truck (old body style);Transmission NV4500 5spd standard TC-HY35W-03-07 2003-2007 Ram 3500 Series 2WD Dually Cummins 5.9L 24 Valve Intercooled Turbo; DSL; 6 spd. standard 2004-2007 5.9 Liter 474516 and 4036551 TC-HY35W-3587088 Cummins 24Valve Engine Turbo Here's some excellent info on the turbos used in our trucks: http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/vbarticles.php?do=article&articleid=122

If you're like me and have a 2000 auto and don't know which turbo you have, here are a few pics of the HY vs. HX

You will have no more fuel volume entering your injection pump with 1/2 inch fuel line vs. 3/8 inch fuel line. You definitely do not need a Drawstraw.

Just remember the pressure to open the overflow valve comes from the internal vane pump not the lift pump. The lift pump wont push fuel through the VP44 when it's running. The little bit of fuel that circulates through the VP44 with the engine off is back feeding through the internal regulator. This wont happen with the engine running.

You should see a P1688 if you experience this failure. You don't need to do any reprogramming. If the transistor is bad, new ones aren't expensive even thou they are only available through Bosch (made in Spain). I would recommend having the part replaced by a qualified technician as it is a little tricky. When my injection pump failed, I attempt to collect as much information as I could about the VP44. I found information in America about the VP44 difficult to find. However, in Europe where VP44's are more common, information is easier to come by. These pumps are used by Audi, Volkswagen, Skoda, Ford, Opel, Vauxhall, Chevrolet, Saab, Nissan, BMW, Volvo, MITSUBISHI, MG, MAN.... For instance, in Europe the transistor in the pictures I posted above is sometimes replaced by a better quality component. Here's a video of the procedure. You may not understand the audio but you get the idea of what the repair involves.

These pictures show the connection failure that is common in the switching circuit of the pcu. This one shows the circuit repaired

I often use Rotella but had stopped because of the smell after an oil change. Since adding Mike's crankcase vent mod I tried it again and had no smell.

A company can write any requirement they want into a warranty but the requirements may violate state law. Some states have laws preventing the requirement of warranty registration of any kind (cards, on-line,ect). For instance, California Civil Code Section 1793.1 states any warranty registration card or any electronic online warranty or product registration form must contain a statement that "Informs the consumer that failure to complete and return the card or form does not diminish his or her warranty rights." A call to your state Attorney General's office is a good idea if your refused warranty for any reason.

It's not a dumb question at all. The science of fluid mechanics tells us running dual fuel pumps (assuming they are identical pumps) in parallel would not increase the fuel system fuel pressure compared to running a single pump but would potentially double the volume output of the fuel system. Realistically, in a closed system, fuel volume delivered to the injection pump would only increase if one pump had insufficient volume output to satisfy fuel requirements. It's very similar to electrical pressure (voltage). If you run two 12 volt batteries in parallel, voltage remains 12 volts but the capacity (amp hours) will double. If you run two 12 volt batteries in series, the voltage doubles but capacity remains the same as one battery. Dual fuel pumps are very common in high performance gasoline applications that require high fuel volume and high fuel pressure. Many companies make dual fuel pump kits for these applications. However, on our trucks with relatively low pressure requirements, in most cases, it makes more sense use one high volume, low pressure pump. A complete Raptor kit will cost less than buying and plumbing two lower volume pumps (Carter, Holley,ect). I'm probably one of the few people who has two fuel pumps plumbed in parallel in a CTD application. However, I only run one pump at a time because one pump provides more than enough fuel flow to supply the VP44. Running both pumps at once provides no advantage. The only reason I have two pumps in parallel is for redundancy. If one pump was to fail, I simply throw a toggle switch on the dash to change pumps. I use my truck to pick up wholesale campers all over the Northeast and a failed fuel pump can be very expensive (tow bill, lost time, hotel room ect...). My fuel system: