Rick C in Oakville

I've been out pumping the pedal and it seems to be getting better very slowly. I had read the write up from Mike, extremely helpful, and gave me the confidence to tackle this. Dealer up here wants over $500 for a pre bled assembly, I got all my parts for about $170.00.Any savings right now is a bonus as this truck is nickel and diming me to death with all the little parts and pieces that almost weekly seem to be needing attention.:broke:Thanks for chiming in.

Went away on holidays, no problems until I got about 3 miles from home, stopped to fill up and pushed clutch in after being in stop and go traffic and it went to the floor. Best place for it to happen though, was able to chug it home starting it in gear and creeping through stop signs. Of course happened during rush hour which made it more challenging. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/4226-Anyway-to-check-how-much-wear-a-clutch-has-left Had changed the slave cylinder a few months ago, parts guy recommended I replace both, but being a Scot i took the cheaper route, well should have taken his advice just replaced the Master and it got my clutch working again. It now comes up about 1.5-2 inches off the floor and grabs, is this how a good setup is as i can't recall with all the issues I have had with mine over the last few months. Thanks Rick

Thanks for the advice, drive shafts good as I replaced all the U joints about 7 or 8 months ago, and I am vibration free, don't look forward to Pinion bearings etc. Can the speedy sleeves be purchased at a parts jobber or just Dodge? I will look at the tube vent, mine fell down from it's mount last year and I just tied it up in the frame so maybe some crap got in as it doesn't have the vent tip in it anymore. I did let the open end of the tube point down so it wouldn't catch anything and drain in. Otherwise he will be tearing it apart next week and I will get the verdict. Rick

Had the rear pinion seal replaced in my Dana 80 2 weeks ago as it was leaking. Was going to do it my self but ran out of time and needed a tool to crank it to +500ft/lbs . Anyways sucker started leaking again tonight, haven't drove more than 500 miles.Haven't contacted the mechanic to see what it could be. I supplied the seal and he supplied the labour. Anyone have any experience with these and what could cause this? Are there better seals, as I paid around $25 with my parts jobber wholesale for the one I got. Thanks for any input on this guys.Rick

It's always easier to hit the taxpayer who has no choice but to comply. A buddy of mine is a heavy equipment operator and the bulldozers, etc. on his subdivision site can eat through 1000's of litres of fuel a day, without any emmissions monitoring.Jets i believe are the biggest emmitters of Hydro carbons pound for pound.dobienut, maybe you need to use the guy I got my emmissions done with? I believe it's your Gross vehicle weight rating that put you through the sniffer test?

Here is the test results for my truck

Been struggling with the clutch on our 1998 ever since my son took it for a long trip last month.At first he lost the clutch completely, so we replaced the slave cylinder and that seemed to correct part of the problem.It seems to grab solidly but the pedal comes so far off the floor (from what I remember it was like before), that it just doesn't feel right. I bled the system and believe the master is okay.Anyway to check this to see if the clutch friction plate is worn? I read if you put it in 4th or 5th and accelarate at low speed you can watch for slippage, I've tried this and it doesn't seem to slip, just slowly builds speed.Any other suggestions or maybe I'm just being paranoid? :cookoo:ThanksRick

I am in Oakville/Mississauga area, pretty sure the etester just did a visual, not that I saw him do the test, just that the results all were N/A's (not applicable?) if i recall on the print out. If I get a chance later this week when I'm home I will scan and post the print out.CheersRick

Excellent video on this, just curious as to why the top balljoint stud can move up and down before installation, I thought it would be rigid like the bottom?Thanks

I'm a little late to this post, but I just had mine Etested and all they did was a visual, and a snap test I believe.Is it because of your 3500's weight status( commercial with CVOR?) you need to have it connected to the smog machine? Just curious.Rick

I used the Quaker state oil which has the Friction Modifiers already in it, no need to measure etc. Just thought I would throw this in.

Awesome, exactly what I was looking for, couldn't figure out how the tubes were released.ThanksRick

A few more issues came up on my sons return trip from the east coast, looks like the clutch Master/Slave is on it's way out as he lost clutch disengagement several times and limped it back home.Any hoo the prebled Master/ Slave systems here are just out of this world (+$500) my parts jobber can get me the Master and Slave separate for $220.00, so I'm looking at going this route.Just unsure how to disconnect the hard line from the slave and master, and bleeding this system? Would like any one's experiences doing this.ThanksRick

Problem solved, was corroded, about 10 minutes of WD40 has cleared it up at the ball swivel up near the injection Pump, ready to go home tomorrow worry free(hopefully)

Thanks, hopefully only a cable issue, 1500 miles with his fingers crossed is not how he wants to end his vacation.

My son just headed to the Canadian east coast driving 24 hours straight (about 1500 miles) with his cousin, and the truck started having this problem.He describes it as a hard spot on the throttle, that takes extra effort to push through. Once you get past the hard spot, the engine rev's jump, the throttle doesn't bring the revs up linearly, either idle or 1500 RPms or more.It makes it tough to get up through the gears when accelerating onto the highway, basically need to keep his foot in it and lurch through the gears. He is also afraid he will damage something pushing through the hard spot. Once at highway speed it isn't a problem as the revs are at 2500 and he sets the cruise.He used the cruise control almost exclusively as it was almost 2 lane all the way, the problem cropped up on the last leg of about 500 miles, is there any linkage or cable the cruise uses that may interfere? He also says it idles, but the idle is much higher than normal.Truck is a 98 2500 12v stock, about 250,000 miles, 5 speed standard 4x4, and has been extremely reliable for the 18 months that he has had it.He would like to fix this before they make their trek back at the end of the week as he is afraid keeping his foot in it during gear shifts is going to damage something.Thanks for any help I can relay to him.Rick

You are in the Holy Land of diesels for Canada. I travel to Alberta about 5 times a year and I am a bit envious of all the great trucks I see out there. Saw this beaut in Calgary last fall. The sound from the stacks was unbelievable

You guys in the states have the best prices on tools, this kit on Amazon would probably be the cost of shipping back and forth LOL http://www.amazon.com/OTC-7249-Ball-Joint-Service/dp/B0002SRGXY Here is a sticky on changing them, I've kept for the fateful day I have to jump in and do it. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-tech-articles/227569-2nd-gen-4wd-ball-joint-replacement-session.html

I tried to take my starter apart but the long bolts snapped in the housing, so had no choice but to replace the starter. It is a Champion with a 3 year warranty, pricier here in Canada, around $300, but has been rock solid for around a year now.

Can Nitrogen be purchased in aerosol cans, for backyard mechanic use?

Why not try jamming a Tie Rod Separator bar behind it to take up the slack? I had a similar issue with the Sway bar mount on the rear, the sway bar link bolt was seized in the hole and it would bounce everytime I hit with a hammer. I have a Tie rod/Ball Joint separator which popped it out easily http://www.princessauto.com/search-products?keyword1=ball+joint+separator

The tool he uses is not too costly, when compared to what the shop will charge http://www.amazon.com/OTC-7249-Ball-Joint-Service/dp/B0002SRGXY around a $100.00 which is like a million Canadian LOL (where I am )

This may help you in task, hopefully not too late http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-tech-articles/227569-2nd-gen-4wd-ball-joint-replacement-session.html

Thanks Mopar Man, I found the adjustment routine will try it this weekend and see if it helps. It takes about over an 8th of a turn each side of centre (10 and 2 o'clock) to get the steering wheel to catch, all front end parts are good.

My steering box has a huge amount of play and was looking maybe to get a newer box from the wreckers if they are compatible? Anyone know if Gen 3 or newer are interchangeable? Is a 1500 or 2500 gas Ram the same steering box?Thanks Rick