CumminStrong

Is there a video with the correct way to attempt the adjustment?

Dorkweed is correct. All DC motors. I used the heatertreater fix. Get all the doors and replace them. My 03 did the exact same thing but now everything works nice. All their doors are metal. It is a pain to get in there to fix so that is why I say replace them all so you only do it once.

That is what I thought. I had one sitting around from another truck and wondered the same question myself. Might just sell the thing to someone who has the mods to support it.

I hear that adding an Edge EZ with Smarty would hurt your injectors and hurt MPG on 5.9 03? Any experience input would be appreciated. Don't want to advise others incorrectly as I have been asked this question before.

That is good to know. Guess this would be the same for Ferd and GM?

After 500, hook it up heavy and tow the crap out of it! Diesels need a load to break in right. All the old timers with them 50K+ rigs have suggested this. I thought that Dodge switched to the exhaust fluid for 2014??? I test drove one and it had an exhaust fluid gauge. They said the DPF was junk and caused to many issues to compete with Ferd and GM. "It will improve on fuel mileage and overall longevity of the engine" was the words I got from the dealer.

Wish I could get my 03 manual high idle to work but I hear it was not programmed in the ECM and the dealer said it cant be done. I tried to do the ground trick with no luck. OP, you will have fun with the Smarty.

Sorry I did not realize this was on an 01 model. My PCM is attached to outside of my fuse box which I had to replace (fuse box) due to electrical issues with my AC unit. Yes that is correct, it does not deal with Engine Components so why would they mess with it knowing the ECM controls the engine components’ that he was having issues with? PCM is usually reprogrammed if it was coming from a different VIN that may not have all the electrical accessories’ and components’ from the previous truck. Now if the Edge did interface with the PCM then I could see it causing an issue but others with more experience with that could elaborate on that further. Please correct me if I am wrong. Thx

They flashed the Power Control Module, ie "fuse box" and not the ECM?? They should know that the ECM would be in control of timing and such. I would be leary of that dealer.

Thanks. You think they will replace? Guess I will contact them.

Anyone know what the recall is for? I replaced my 03 with the upgraded one a few years ago but no recall letter.

Thanks Just wanted to make sure we were talking about the same thing. I will be changing up to the Amsoil 15W-40 Heavy-Duty Diesel and Marine Motor Oil (AKA = AME). Thinking of using the ELF filter for my high flow vs the Amsoil AE ones that cost more since I believe it is the same filter.

Guess I wanted to make sure we are talking about the Amsoil 15W-40 Heavy-Duty Diesel and Marine Motor Oil? Or the Rotella T6?

You are referring to the 15W-40 Heavy-Duty Diesel and Marine Motor Oil, right? I get down to about -20 ambient and a -42 wind-chill factor at times in Colorado. You think it will be ok with the thicker winter 15? I know it says -44 pour rate so on paper it sounds ok? In theory unless I get below -44 it will perform just as good as a winter 5. Let me know if I got it wrong. Good to know that it is Cummins approved for a 30w. With the TBN at 12 just like the 5w-30, it would ensure it lasts just as long. I think the longest I had it in had a TBN down to 5.8 at about 36K miles. I just changed everything this summer so I guess I am at least good until this coming up summer.

I am wondering the same thing....I have used Series 3000 5W-30 since 35K miles with a BMK21 110 bypass filter for 03 Cummins no Cat. Now at 185K. I see it is a CI-4+ oil but thinking I need to go back up to a 5W-40 which they only offer in CJ. The reason is that I was towing about 16K + for 2 days in a row, 100 miles over the summer hauling hay and noticed it burned up about 2 qts or so. Was told by Amsoil support that I need to use 40w due to load and it was normal to burn that much. Never had that before over the years. Little concern over the CJ verses the CI. Any suggestions? Did I put my engine through un needed wear and tear?

Thanks Guys for the input. I may let it burn out before I go with a clutch. It looks like the HD 3" might be a good choice since it will be better than stock and stock has held up for 180K+ miles.

So what gets me is if the Con OFE does very well then why did SB feel like they needed a fully organic 3 inch surface? Some have said that it will hold as good as the OFE with the larger surface area and it makes it engage smother than other smaller plates. :shrug:You dont have issues taking off in 2nd gear with the OFE? How heavy have you towed with it and how did it do?Thanks,

I was thinking the same thing but didnt want to limit anything from the OFE clutch for a few dollars more. Thanks - - - Updated - - - That is good to hear the CON OFE does well. How is the tow manners with it?

Hello,So it may be time soon to replace my 180K stock clutch. I just replaced master and slave hydraulics. This is on a 03 2500 with NV5600. I have been looking at SB as my replacement. Here is a question from those that have run them and what they experienced. I tow about 10k - 19K during the summer with a dump trailer, hauling large 8x4 hay bales and equipment. The stock as done just fine during all this hauling but I dont try to drive it like it was not loaded either. The rest of the year/winter, I use it as a daily driver to work and back home. Wife drives the rig so I need something that is not hard on the knee or engages aggressively either. Want to still drive off in 2nd without major shakes and backup a good load without the whole "use low gear" idea. The only major power upgrade is a Smarty running at #7 for fuel milage, not romping around. Rest stock.Here are the choices: 1947-OK-HD or 1947-OFEK Appreciate the advice in advance.Jeremy

I watch my psi gauge and it stays right at 15psi normally. I changed out the fuel and water sep because I notice the pressure was slowing decreasing to about 12-13 psi max. You think I could be ok with putting back in the BF1275 used water filter for a bit?

Thanks,I will put my used BF1275 and remove the FS19768. I think I got about 34K on the BF1275.How often should I replace the BF1275? I hear they can last alot longer than the fuel filter side and what should I look at to determine when to change it?I will order some P551315 for the main fuel side soon but will use the FS5613 in the mean time.

Hello Everyone.I use the ADIIJust wanted to ask. I used the BF1275 water sep and wanted to ask how often should that be replaced?The same question for the main filter?Currently I am using the following:FF5613FS19768Any thoughts when compared to what I used before?BF7634Bf1275Was wondering if I should at least put back in my used BF1275 instead of my new FS19768?Thanks