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eddielee

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Everything posted by eddielee

  1. I called Kartek and they said that Tie Rods are $40 each up to 24" long= $80 for a pair Cut and tapped. $49 for a Hiems Joint and you are looking at $140/ side and $280 for both sides!
  2. The benefit to a deep cycle battery is actually being able to draw it down farther without killing it. I would recommend installing one in the bed for a trailer or to use instead of the truck batteries when using electronics. Install a relay that shuts off when the truck is not running so the battery will charge when the truck is running but not drawing on the truck batteries when it is not on/in the run position.
  3. Brake flush to get any air/water out!! I had a lock up issue due to air. with these trucks I believe the rear and front actuate separate and this could be an issue!
  4. No this is not just a 4x4 issue!!! I have a 2wd and deathwobble! It got much better after a guy at a shop did a great alignment. Now I can let go of the wheel and the truck will maintain track. I often find that the guy doing the alignment is a huge aspect. My ball joints need replaced and the steering gear and frame flex need to be addressed. When you get an alignment tell them NOT to compensate for the road!!! I have had guys do this on other cars and mess up the alignment creating an unstable steering issue with all good parts!!!
  5. First mistake "autozone." If you drive this way then I really doubt the pads are bad or at fault. The only way I see squealing at this point is if the rear has issues and the front is compensating for them. I have many times had to clean up my calipers extremely well as they would not operate correctly. Causing the outter or inner pad to be thinner than the other. Since you used the brake grease I lean more towards the rotors and cleaning the caliper/mount point extremely well and using the brake grease in there as well. If it was me I would take it apart clean and check the calipers and pads, re-grease well and and use a micrometer to check the rotors to see what condition they are truly in. I usually don't have my rotors nor drums turned, the new pads do this for me. If there is excessive grooving in the rotors the pads would last only about half as long. Changed at correct intervals it is preferred to use a Dremel or some sand paper to roughen up the rotors so they do not squeal right off. I do highly recommend using ceramic pads as they have less friction and heat the rotors less, causing less wear overall.
  6. Looking at Kartek as they have FK Hiems joints and custom make tie rods. I will call them and see what I find then post back.
  7. I believe that the alignment is an issue, however, I also believe that the steering gear and stabilizer as well as ball joints combined with tie rods are major factors. I recently took my truck in knowing that the steering gear was not so good and he informed me that the ball joints and the tie rods were needing replaced, mostly the ball joints. I have not found any special ball joints for the 2wd that will help the issues either. I called Ballistic Fabrication and they were not really interested in helping me out too much... I am going to do more research on companies that deal with tie rods and see if I can find one to make me a set. I really want Ballistic, or a similar company to fab up some, Heim style, tie rod replacements. The issue is that there has to be a custom adjuster with locking nuts. I see that unless it is bent the center bar can stay, If I can connect to the wheels with after market stuff I will be happy! I am wondering if there are more guys that want to have some made and we can get a better deal...
  8. I guess they just have to articulate to allow for movement of the a-frame without applying extra force to the linkage. or pulling the tires in and out based on spring compression and articulation. Why does nobody make stuff for 2WD???
  9. They give directions to replace the starter because all the actions of replacing one are either side of rebuilding one... I had to take mine out, while waiting for parts, and take a knife to the contacts and plunger in order to clean them. I am lazy so I have not changed them out after getting the replacements. Ok, so I'm not lazy, they still work after cleaning them and the others are spare "new in box" parts for when they give me crap again. Buy them now if you do not have them, and when the starter starts clicking start planning on where and when you want to do the job, relatively soon!
  10. My first thought is, did you "not" use brake grease and they are starting to scream? "most likely cause at 10,000mi" My second thought is you are a man who doesn't like to down shift, and needs to start using Ceramic Pads! I could not see any reason to go through that many is pulling logs down a mountain in Colorado going way too fast! Definitely need to look at calipers! I would stick to High Grade Carbon Steel Rotors. You couldn't pay me to put cast iron on any vehicle, not even a moped!
  11. The answer to the seat belt issue is a company that re-webs the seat belt mechanism. Do a search online and you will find many results that either have a core and will send it with a core charge, or you take yours out and send it in. This decision would likely depend on whether or not you want to drive your truck in the meantime. But I have not found any aftermarket seat belts other than the basic floor or wall mounted cable and mechanism or solid mount. Yes you can find a place that will re-web your seat belts, however, they are not cheap...
  12. Still looking at my options, this linkage is for 04-12 and seems to be an option due to the t style attachment and placement of the attachment. http://www.factorymoparparts.com/52122362af.html?gclid=CjkKEQjw5-OdBRDW3ceD9fL0r4QBEiQAW7htXR7u-nKVFUe4bYpP8tRoEMHY6nuxCADt9Xvvd2VsFqLw_wcB Ebay link for better image http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOPAR-52122362AF-Front-Steering-Linkage-Tie-Rod-Assembly-For-Dodge-Ram-2500-3500-/130895194763 Is there any reason this shouldn't work on a 2WD truck?
  13. So what I have in my mind is that the only reason that the 4WD steering setup will not work on the 2WD trucks is the height at which the truck sits. The room necessary for the solid bar to go from the steering gear to the left wheel may not be available unless you go from the bottom of the pitman arm. Other than that the room allowed by the wheel may not allow the room needed for the parts either...
  14. Trying to compare 4wd and 2wd attributes through auto websites is an incredibly challenging thing to do. Can anyone tell me what the real difference is in the two? Is the taper bolt in the joint different? are the lengths different or a different shape? Is there any reason that the 4WD version will not work? will the different bolt size option on the 7/8-5/8 actually work? There seems to be many parts you can get for 4WD and not 2WD.
  15. Hey y'all, I have been doing research into what to do about the steering issue on my truck. I have found the Y to T 98-99 Mod and another steering kit 7/8" with high misalignment spacers. My question is will either of/ or both of be an option for a 2wd? I see all pics of 4wd trucks using both setups. After all the reading I have done I lean towards the Ballistic Fabrication kit http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Steering-Kit-78-with-High-Misalignment-Spacers_p_1337.html I have been reading stories about MOOG not being so good these days so I am looking for the kit that will last and fit. I have also read about going to the 09-10 T set up instead of the 98-99 setup. I would appreciate all the info you can give! The 99 setup is best listed here http://www.mark74.com/ram_modifications.htm#crossover
  16. 4th gear hunt to alternators, I assume the alternator drawing energy from the engine will reduce the power available causing a downshift. Honestly, towing in OD has never been recommended by any auto manufacturer... If driving an auto while towing a trailer or a heavy load I recommend that if you do use OD that you drop the gear manually once the trans has shifted down the first time to gain power for the hill. This will prevent any vehicle from hunting. Remember you are the operator of said vehicle... I have always down shifted my auto trans for preferred performance and to prevent hunting. Driving up hill is one of the worst at causing an automobile to hunt, even, and especially, passenger cars.
  17. I was just wanting to get a second on the socket I need for this job. I can get 2 different kinds one with rounded corners and one with sharp corners. I believe that all the corners on the nut are rounded from looking at it earlier... Ishould be able to use this socket below correct? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/otc-1928?seid=srese1&gclid=CJbAtef84rwCFS1p7AodkGsAzw Thank you PS went to Northern Tool and got a normal 2 9/16 socket and it was too big profile wise...
  18. I replaced my batteries yesterday and am curious how much of the starting issue I was having was actually due to lack of amperage. I did not think much of the variance in voltage on the dash meter until I replaced the batteries and the variance was virtually eliminated. Started to worry that the alternator was going out so I stopped and checked voltage and it was upper 13v and mid 14v so all is good there. Seems to me I could have replaced the batteries right off and not had to worry about the contacts... The cleaned up contacts are holding up great! Now I have a new set on hand when needed. New to you vehicles are so great for learning yet hard on the pocket book!!!
  19. What is your maintenance? I paid $15 yesterday and saw $17 at another place.
  20. I believe the issue is air getting in the line not leaking fuel out. This is why you are being told to just replace the washer and o-rings.
  21. This was part of the issue. I was rushing at the park and was not nearly as diligent as I should have been. There were other people with a broken serpentine belt on their Ford who kept coming over and bothering me as well. Anyhow, when I pulled it back apart the connection on the solenoid lug was a little loose. I believe this is what popped the fuse as it has not happens as of yet since. I had to use a pair of needle nose pliers to hold the insulator while tightening the nut on the lug this time because there is no second nut. next time I will get a couple of nuts to lock together so I can hold it with a wrench. ED
  22. I had a similar issue, my gauge will actually read full pressure with the engine off. I installed a mechanical gauge and it was only like $40 rather than $90. When the bell goes off and says to check the gages I look down at the mechanical gauge and shrug. I highly recommend installing a mechanical gauge rated up to 100psi above the oil pump which is the easiest place. Just install it with a copper line rather than the plastic ones they come with. You can also get the sensor at a cummins shop for the same cost as Genos if you have one locally.
  23. I see what you are talking about. our starters have the brushes at the back of the armature rather than the front. I still don't think that my contacts were all that bad, definitely not as bad as the ones in the pic on that link. Today I used a knife, not my first choice, to clean up all the contacts. What I did notice is the plunger contact moves and does not stay centered and this is likely a large part of my issue. I have a set of contacts with plunger on order so if all is not good I will have to get the copper studs, solenoid coil, and solenoid stud.