Me78569

So if there is no baro sensor then how does the cummins ECM handle altitude? Does it even? Why is it that the early trucks map sensors take baro into consideration, yet cummins switched sensors on late trucks to ones that don't consider baro? Seriously odd stuff going on. I can make it show 0 psi right now, but in the summer it will have a -2* offset. Nothing has changed in the sensor offset since summer.

So I coded up some stuff to read baro. Baro sensor reports 0 all the time haha Air filter pressure ( same PGN 65270 as boost) reports 36 all the time when calculated via the standard in the j1939 standards. not really sure what to make of that.

Also the switch is only a trigger to enable the mode, it cannot cancel the mode. It far to simple of a switch to try and automate it.

You would have to use a servo to turn the switch. Overly complex to solve an issue that can be solved by remembering to turn the switch on before getting out. Those are my thoughts haha

It needs to be flashed. Your USB cord is likely just a charger cord that only has 2 wires vs the 4 wire USB for transfering data.

You should be able to handle manually installing the driver then. You need to 1. plug in the box, 2. find it in the device manager 3. right click " update driver" 4. browser for driver 5. choose driver 6. find the qz.inf in the c:\quadintflash\bin folder\ 7.update the driver When you plug in the box to the computer it should connect and disconnect, with the beep noise.

Is the box plugged in? It should show us to serial device with it plugged in. Did you extract to c:\ so the shortcut shoudl be c:\quadintflash\step 2 Do you know how to manually install a driver?

Right click "run as admin" on step 2?

I think the ECM is using a sensor built into it plus battery temp or something to calculate baro pressure. The ECM would not be using values from a sensor in the intake track. We will see if there is a baro reading be reported.

Only thing I know is that in the summer the reading was correct, now everyone seems to be off by 2*. I would say this is because the ECM has an internal baro sensor, so IAT sensor temp wouldn't change baro. HOWEVER, I just reviewed the SPN's for 65270, which include boost, IAT, and Air filter pressure...... There is another SPN for Barometer, but I am assuming that maybe our ECMS use "air filter pressure" as baro. So I coded up that and I will test it at some point to see if maybe we can read baro.....

I am betting dimes to dollars that once temp comes back up boost will read right again. I don't know that there is a way to solve the issue. I could make it read 0 right now, then you would have a 2psi delay in the summer. I am not sure what is worse?

I know I have said it before, but I think the coding is "done" @TFaoro happy so I am happy haha. anything beyond this will likely be proof of concept, don't run on the street type stuff.

that's all me in the video. i'll post the tune if you want to mess with it. I haven't found any bugs but it is still "new" so keep that in mind. app-release.apk for your phone for the sliders etc adrv2.exe flash for the box.

I don't think iOS is to far behind,. I heard rumors from quad.

@Dieselfuture Video talking through the "latest and greatest" If you want the flash let me know and you can play with it. If you don't have interest in the timing stuff then the tune you are running is great.

I have been dealing with brake and ABS lights on all the time from key on to key off. I have also been suffering from "irregular" / "unpredictible" pedal feel. Sometimes pedal feels fine other times it goes to the floor. Braking power is still there however. So I got a hair up my butt today and started probing wires. Tested the rear ABS sensor, 1.8 k resistance, which is within spec for the sensor. While I was under there I unplugged the Sensor on the proportioning valve and BAM no more lights. So what does that sensor do? and why does the ABS computer throw a hissy fit when it is plugged in? I am assuming it is telling me that pressure is off in either the front or rear?

So a tip that I have found to use A LOT is to always keep a paper clip handy when troubleshooting electrical issues. Most, if not all plugs in the engine bay can be jumped using a paper clip from the sensor side. This will allow you to use the multimeter on the other end to check resistance from the ecm / computer side to check for breaks in the wire. This comes in VERY handy if you are looking for where a break is in the wiring. Always start from the end then move closer and closer to where the sensor is until you find the break.

First thing I would ask is if you have a quality Multimeter? There is a wealth of elextrical info in our articles section, troubleshooting etc. Electrical learning for me stems from having an issue to troubleshoot rather than looking to learn about something. The electrical world is a big place. ' You might start off looking into how to test sensors based on their specs resistence when they are not being used.

Sounds like your Map is stuck reading a high PSI. I would check the map sense wire at idle and see how many volts it is showing. It should show ~4.5v at idle. Low the volt the higher the PSI reading. I had this same issue caused by my map reading 45 psi all the time.

impossible.

I had 1 day off in the time I went to school there. It was -55*f before windchil hahahaha... I am pretty sure school would have been on if the buses would have run.

apparently Colorado Springs has a different classification of Hoth than me. I can currently still see my grass, less than 1" on the ground, and all schools are closed and the local new station has "weather watch!" on all morning......

Welcome, I am sure we have answers for whatever might ale your 24v.

clean truck, looks like you will fit in well. welcome

I am still lost haha. Do you have a question at this point?