Me78569

round and round we go haha https://www.scantool.net/forum/index.php?topic=9298.msg32595#msg32595

Use a 6.7 manifold, bolt n a he351vgt and use an arduino to control it. It should nearly bolt in place on your CR truck, just need the exhaust manifold.

Yet more info https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1-7Ahhgu7fPNAfORWXrjADwHnI8PiozMbrc1AF3RrglQ/edit?pref=2&pli=1#gid=530668887 I am wondering if the CCD bus is used by the smarty hyper tech DBRIII to do everything. HOWEVER back to the scipod code Ed got, Baud 62500 is used to get engine data on the CCD bus... Line 361 in the code. Attached is the scipod code dcxfile.c dcxfile.h Makefile Scipod commands.odt scipod.c serial.c serial.h in fact thinking about it I am sure the CCD is used to do all of this. I remember talking with Ed about this, specificlly the p0602 code that the smarty generated. Here's a good thread with lots of info on the CCD http://thespeedfreaks.net/showthread.php?12585-CCDuino-A-ZJ-Databus-Project/page1&s=8c17270b2ce972a7b99a42d87573cebf

smells like VGT time for you

What happens if you move the min value up on the pid configure and set the -28 back to -16? the min value from the sensor may be above 0. I would try try min set to 25 to start and then revert -28 back to something that is close to 14psi + 2(your altitude in PSI difference from sea level ) http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/air-altitude-pressure-d_462.html the PID min and max values should match the .5v-4.5v to x-xxx range of the 0v-5v vs 0-255 in a perfect world

Alright I have boost reading accurately for our trucks Issue we have with our trucks is early trucks read map values as 0-1023 or 0-5v late trucks read 0-255 and the ecm decodes that our sensors read in KPA at least for early truck late trucks may read in PSI. a KPA Our sensors also do not take atmospheric pressure. Our ECM takes the KPA from the map sensor then takes baro pressure and minuses it. So to configure on a early truck Name: Boost Description: Boost Manuf: Generic metric units: Units english units: psi min: 0 Max: 1023 Metric to english scale: .2 Metric to English offset: 0 header: 486 obd mode: 01 pid: 0B Priority: high equation: (A*.145)-16 ****16 is the approx of atmosphere so since I am high in altitude you take 14psi for sea level then add a few PSI for being high. So to configure on a late truck ( untested but I think that should work) Name: Boost Description: Boost Manuf: Generic metric units: Units english units: psi min: 0 Max: 255 Metric to english scale: .2 Metric to English offset: 0 header: 486 obd mode: 01 pid: 0B Priority: high equation: (A*.145)-16 ****16 is the approx of atmosphere so since I am high in altitude you take 14psi for sea level then add a few PSI for being high.

Alright my obdlink is in the truck and connected. After work I will spend some time playing catchup.

Enough treats and the dogs will like any hole you put them in. We found that due to the limited amount of floor space we needed to have them tucked away so we ditched the storage, rearranged, and shoved the dogs in there with treats. That plus in the winter I am sure they will like being tucked in there with blankets.

We'll be there.

We drove up i-25 to 70 then up to hwy 40 to granby, then over to williams fork res. We didn't see any snow falling.

Pictures of the campsite 3 days of power use, lights, radio, water pump, and charge cell phones. left the site with 12.4v on the group 31 that runs the camper. I filled the propane at the start of the trip, last trip was near 0 outside 2 days heater running the whole time used 1 gallon of propane. Very happy with how the camper worked. And the dogs in their spots. Little small, but you get used to it. I never did like tent camping ( always slept under the stars) but I could never go back now haha. All I can say is, I can make coffee in the morning without starting a fire.

Let us know what you think and how the install goes for you. This is based on what I have in my truck and the hose lengths ETC should be good, but I am always nervous.

I REALLY need to do this. I had the pleasure of pulling some VERY long steep pass'es this weekend with the camper. temps started to get up there pretty good.

My obdlink got shipped so I should be able to catch you on my end and start digging into the codes. excited to dive into it.

not one single bite......FML in a lake full of northern Pike. Never have I struggle to get a northern to bite. I hate fish sometimes they are jerks.

Head off to catch some big northern pike at Williams fork res.

you are wanting what I am wanting. If you install an upgraded VB you will have more harshness in low tps situations. control over shifting is not as straight forward. the issue is the PCM is commanding the tc lockup so if you want to control lockup you can either, disable the pcm's ablity to command lockup, or command lockup when the pcm is not commanding it. There is no way to disable the pcm's commands when you wnat on the fly other than installing a switch that goes between the pcm and the lockup wire.

Right now on the 2000 I have Spicer ball joints, that seem to be doing good after 15 ish k dennydriveshaft ones Acdelco pro steering T setup, with a no name pitman arm that I need to replace.

Katoom, after I swore off Moog I started using Rayebesto pro stuff and have been happy. MY wifes truck has it on her's and it is holding up nice. Whatever that's worth. AC Delco pro = Rayebesto pro as far as i can tell.

Remember the TC should unlock during the 3/4 shift. HOWEVER a full flare is not normal. If you are jumping more than ~200 rpm I would be worried about the health of the trans. I am going to let dynamic verify tho as I am no expert.

I agree with you completely Dripley, It is hard to know what was truly OEM, I am not %100 convinced about denny's either. I am really just going off of the limited PN info I have. $70 a side is cheap in terms of OEM compared to what Dodge will sell you, but if we go off of the 2x price rule of thumb ( dodge prices) it is starting to get closer in price hahah. For whatever it is worth the last ball joints in my truck were moogs...they had about 15k on them and they were as loose as bells...literally. I dunno what was to blame for that as the PO installed them. all in all it's a crap shoot haha.

while he is a good resource for info I have found his prices to reflect that. I have found parts on his site elsewhere for %50 of what he has them listed as. I don't think there is a difference between the quad ball joints and the ones listed on Denny's site. I dont think he sells just the dana joints. http://www.quad4x4.com/category/D216/00-02-D60DF-BALL-JOINT--STEERING/1.html interestingly enough the greaseable kit he has is ~$200 more and it looks like they are just acdelco joints.

rpms jumping when it tries to upshift?

I have talked ALOT with people who have access to Spicer PN's and I am all but sure those are OEM. Do you have a link to the higher priced version of them? I am VERY interested to get to the bottom of it. I have heard of the multi grade spicer stuff, but I have never been able to find 2 different grades of ball joints. The PN match what spicer says is the "good ones" for the Dana 60. whatever that is worth

Dripley, Dennydriveshaft as OEM ball joints for a good bit cheaper than quad4X4 http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/c904_ball_joints.html