Me78569

The TV cable is under the black plastic cover on the front drivers side of the engine. There is a cable that runs down to where your shifter linkage attaches to the tranny. One arm is for the shift select the other is the TV cable. use the Mopar1973man part number lookup tool Page: 472 part #23 https://mopar1973man.com/external-media/pdf/2000Ramparts.pdf#view=FitB&page=472

excess fuel is still bled back to the tank even if the overflow is closed due to the way our injector system works. We have a return feed on the back of the head that the none used injection cycle fuel travels through . Idea behind 14 psi is, we know the vp44 uses fuel to cool and lube, so why not supply it with even more fuel. It takes approx 30 gph of fuel to power out trucks at WOT in stock form if you look at how much hp/tq our trucks make. So why remove that cooling at lube when it needs it most? If bosch says %30 for running and %70 for cooling then I am going to believe them. That being said after the did the 027 revision on the vp44 a lot of the common vp44 issues went %100 away. we are seeing newer vp44's last much much longer. If it doesn't hurt to run higher fuel pressure and gph why not ya know?

There is no diapragm, in the revised pump. I think the revised Bosch pumps areally much tougher than. The original design.

It is. I have never driven a truck with an edge comp on it, but the difference between the smarty and my quad is beyond night and day. I didn't tune the smarty, maybe csm needs to show me whats up with the smarty.

If the filter is sucking down then it is time for a new one, so that was a good choice. What are your EGTS at now? Idle? Cruise at 55, 65, 75,? WOT? How many miles on your injectors? What trans mods do you have?

Remember comparing the edge and smarty is apples to oranges. Boost / EGT's will be noticeably lower with the smarty as it is not a wiretap box. The smarty does move the power band lower than the edge, but that is not as noticeable in an auto truck.

Are you trying to solve a specific issue or just looking for something to spend money on?

Yea I think your issues are in the 35" tires mostly. I dont know if you meant that the 35" tall tires are factory or just the rims, but your issue can be explained in 2 ways. 1. you tires are almost 5" taller than factory so your truck thinks you are going slower than you actually are, thus it will shift at high speeds. 2. the 35" tires are much heavier and much harder to turn due to increased rotational mass and a longer leverage arm. so you are having to use more throttle input that most of us when accelerating. This means that the TV cable, again driven off the Throttle, is pulled more. That a lone is going to raise your shift points. If you 3.55 gears on your truck you effectively make them 3.05's by running 35"s tall tires. Now you can adjust your TV cable for more slack to help with the issue, but I don't know if I would do that. Not only are you decreasing shift speeds, but you are also lowering tranny pressure at a given throttle position, IE less holding power.

In city driving I would expect to see 1-2 shift 10-15 mph, 2-3 25-30 mph, 3-4 shift ~45 mph. You should look at the adjustment on your TV cable. It runs from the APP / TPS sensor on the engine down to the tranny. The tension / throw on this cable is what controls your shift points. tighter tv cable = holds gears longer

no the edge fuels 2x more than the smarty will. Boost is driven by fuel input.

I think all the smarty settings raise the limit, but I am no smarty pro, Maybe CSM will chime in.

The smarty rewrites the upper limit for boost in the ecm fueling tables so you don't need a boost fooler.

Some more tuning Cowboy, in 3rd at 1500 rpm I have ~15 psi of boost no issue, still only pushing %50 TPS on these runs. but smoke is pretty much gone when the quad is turned off. I need to do some OD pulls from 1300 rpm up, but I RARELY ever go over 65 mph in the truck haha. 3rd just doesn't load the engine enough to build boost at lower RPMS with the auto. Anyways 0 smoke on this pull when I went from %20 to %50 tps.

pending vs permanent is what I was thinking.

codes can have 2 status's active and temp some codes require an ongoing issue to get set to active. I would bet this is the case . try using the app "auto doctor" that will show me both of those categories.

I love me some Slaid Cleaves, great folk singer.

Dunno, I don't have the slightest clue, bu you can use the part number lookup tool to get a PN then search the mighty google tool. Go to the 47re, then scroll down until you see the diagram you are looking for..... page 432 part 26 in the diagram http://lmgtfy.com/?q=52077804AC

Wow, talk about rust. i'd replace that bad boy.

Use the part number lookup tool to verify that the parts you are looking at are the same between the 1500 and 2500/3500 Frame is on page 261, looks like there is no difference in the series of the truck 1500/2500/3500 rather the differences are in the length and cab config.

again exact numbers it depends on your TPS input ( throttle position sensor / apps/ throttle) but for typical DD keeping up with traffic that is about right.

Version 1.08 is out. In Perf mode ( inactive pot set to < 10) the offidle performance is up and smoke is down. Curve is adjusted some for better bottom end. I'd say the entire boost curve is moved down by 100 rpm.

depends on Throttle Input. earlier for less TPS and later for more TPS.

You are using less to input than you used to due to the injectors. Now 20% throttle is 100hp where as before 20% was say 75 hp. So when doing you used to leave a stop light at 20% to now you might only use 15%. That has a direct effect on how your Trans shifts.

Both use the same drawstraw. Just go over to vulcanperformance.com and get the cheapo drawstraw.,

Yep, I did the same thing and can EASILY run the tank down to 2 gallons with no pressure issues.