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Me78569

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Everything posted by Me78569

  1. I am happy to report that I now have 2wd, 4wd high, N and 4 lo. Transfer case is working like it should. Seems alittle stiff, but that is likely my memory of the old broken shifter. I will start building the article soon.
  2. Yep it is a honeycomb type setup, it will flow a large amount of air for the size.
  3. I hated the smarty on my truck, even on the lowest setting it was VERY smokey and VERY touchy. I am sure the auto plays a big role in that.
  4. It'll happen once I get it back in the truck and it drives
  5. Yep, I am sure the safety comision would never even make it under the hood, they would take one look anywhere on the truck and haul it off to the junkyard.
  6. Tyler, Glad some thing on my truck makes you jealous haha. I was turning that pto gear with pride when I was testing the shifting. Royal, Time for a rebuild. It's very easy and you should have a nice writeup to go by soon.
  7. Go look at lilbb.Com stuff then if you want to got he vgt route. Don't go with the banshee controller or fleece.
  8. It is nice...to bad my only remote is at the bottom of 11 mile res. One day I will get another one.
  9. Big thanks to dynamic and his advice The main shaft position is set by the rear main bearing in the transfer case. We are back together and ready to be stabbed back into the truck. No more grinding and I now can shift to n and 4 low again.
  10. Keep in mind to really be able to control a vgt well you need to watch turbo shaft speed. Most 3rd party controllers only work off of boost. Yes it will work, but not as good as it should. If you want a more off the shelf controller look at lilbb.com. If you somewhat electrical say you can follow my writeup
  11. Yep if the budget is more open then there are other turbos that will work better.
  12. I dont mind haha, provided you continue to help people out.
  13. Either pump can be used on either engine. No running issues.
  14. You need a hx40 style downpipe some what to connect the turbo outlet elbow to the intercooler ( cpp sells a pipe for $80 I think) I would call DAP and see what they say about turbos to fit your needs. I think he has a couple.
  15. that's what I say about my 1x4 piece of wood holding my batts down haha.
  16. Yep, I would find a used one on craigslist or Cumminsforum or similar. You should be able to get a good one for way less than $500. I picked up my he351ve for $400 and it only had 4000 miles on it. However there is a lot of truth to, if it aint broke dont fix it....
  17. oh I forgot about that, There is a section in your profile for website....maybe you fill that out and we hammer the details out later. I think you might have already hahaha. Wow I would have loved to throw you money when I did my trans http://dynamictransparts.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=62_76&product_id=61 That's a good price for all of that. A DPC triple disc and I would be setup pretty good. If I post your website it doesn't count
  18. why not share with the class?
  19. it sits within spec of holset....good enough for me. However unless you like to tinker I wouldn't go the vgt route. vgt perks - Exhaust brake - spool is VERY nice - don't run into top end drive pressure / egt issues with my quad and 100 hp injectors - sea level it is all but smoke free ( and I mean tuner turned up and you stomp on the pedal from a stop there is almost no smoke, more of a haze) turbo choice really depends on what HP level you want to be at. If you are going to say between 400hp and 450hp I would say a 351 is a better choice than a 61/62 sized turbo. the he351 will spool faster than the hx35 and support 400 hp easy. If you want more than 450hp then you need to step up to a bigger turbo, but you will lose some bottom end. I know Tyler liked his 62 a lot, but he also has a 5 speed vs our Auto. Less gears means less ability to gear down.
  20. if you are gonna go through the work of a turbo upgrade why not get away from the old school hx design and go to a better setup like a 351cw or similar? I know drop in etc, but I really think it would be worth the effort in the end.
  21. Me78569 posted an Cummins article in Cab Interior
    Huge thanks to jstetler69 over on CF for posting this writeup and also letting us post it here. If you notice your headlights are not always turning on when you turn the knob it might be time to clean your headlight switch. Lights might also be dimmer than they used to be. Start by taking the switch out. Pop the dash bezel off, remove the 3 mounting screws, disconnected the batteries (probably not 100% necessary, but it’s always a good idea when messing with any electrical stuff), and pull the 2 plugs from the back of the switch. Now I had to take the switch case apart. Just work your way around the case pushing in the locking tabs so you can take the case apart. Once you get the back of the case off you come to the most difficult part of the overall fix. The middle part of the switch (with the aluminum heat sink and plug connections attached) is held in place entirely by propeller shaped copper connectors. These are important as they are the connections for the fog lights. I could not figure out how to remove these copper connectors. What I did was slowly pull the front of the switch away from the middle part of the switch. What happened was the propeller shaped copper connectors bent outwards as I pulled them through the hole. As you do this, make sure you’re holding the switch over a good work space because 3 little springs and 3 small spool shaped copper slugs will fall out. Now I was able to address the problem. The connections were all corroded. You’ll be able to easily see how the switch works now. Those spool shaped copper slugs rest over the 3 little holes (with the springs underneath keeping them pressed against the plate). When the switch is assembled, turning the dial rolls those slugs back and forth across the big copper plate. The contact ridges on my copper slugs were heavily corroded as were the visible tracks on the copper plate where the slugs travel. I wiped away all of the grease. I used 1000 grit sandpaper to clean and slightly scratch up all of the contact ridges on the copper spools and the travel tracks on the copper plate. I also cleaned the metal ring in the middle chunk of the switch where the propeller shaped copper connectors make their contact for the fog lights. This might be a good time to swap out and wire in an LED bulb (if you’re doing that upgrade in your dash lights) or just wire in a replacement bulb. Because of the delicate, thin propeller shaped copper connectors that we have to bend and then bend back, we can probably only do this fix one time. I doubt those thin copper fins are going to let us bend them back and forth more than once. I’ve gotten 350K miles (yes my odometer is off) and 15 years out of this factory switch though. Here’s to another 15. After cleaning up all of the connections I decided to stretch out the springs a little. Probably not necessary, but I wanted to make sure they were pressing the copper slugs against the copper plate firmly. Now I gooped up all of the contacts with a little fresh dielectric grease and proceeded to put the switch back together. Drop the springs into the holes on the dial shaft. Then carefully place the spool shaped copper slugs over the springs. Then slowly and carefully push the hole in the middle part of the switch back over the propeller shaped copper fins (I actually bent them in more by squeezing them together a little). Almost done. Now firmly hold this middle part of the switch into the front part of the switch and observe the propeller shaped fins. Turn the dial and pull as if to turn on the fog lights. Make sure those propeller fins are making good contact with the metal ring (just carefully bend them back down to original position). Now with switch facing down so the slugs and springs don’t fall out of place, snap the back of the case back on. Voila! Fixed headlight switch! I plugged it back in and reconnected the batteries and tried it before I remounted it. It worked the first time (and every time since)! Then remount it with the screws and pop the dash bezel back on. DONE!
  22. unless you are jonesen for a project I would either go with a manual VB or the anteater setup. I promise you it will cost less time and money in the long run haha.
  23. I would more so look at the turbo map, see what boost you are pushing and see if the turbo is efficient where you are driving it. you have enough fuel to push a hx35 out of it's map so I am sure you are doing this with the 2000 turbo badly since it doesn't have a wastegate to bleed off exhaust gasses. EGT's smoke output at high boost can indicate an issue, but I would look for a compressor map of your turbo. ATS say 40PSI is the max for the turbo. what boost do you see?
  24. It should provided you aren't vastly overfueling the turbo. Barking gets worse the more you overspeed the turbo, a wastegate keeps the turbo from overspeeding. I think a 2k turbo is minutely bigger than the hx35 and looking at your mods I am guessing you are overfueling the turbo/overspeeding.
  25. id look on your local craigslist and see if anyone sells blem batteries. there is a guy here that sells mislabeled batteries for $50 group 24 $65 group27 and $75 group 31's. He amp tests them in front of you and offers a great warranty. I have 5 of his batteries in various things and am VERY happy with all of them. Beyond that I agree with Wild