Me78569

pads looked perfect. New pads installed anyways and the issue still exists I am working on getting it put back together to see if the rear bearing holds the main shaft.

I think tyler already has the issue under control haha.

Edit: big thanks to Dynamic, He pointed out that the main shaft position is held by the rear bearing and the snap ring on it in the output snout. I am gonna tear her down again and ensure that I put the bearing back fully seated, then ensure the output bearing is setting position correctly.

some trucks only power the lift pump for a split second also when you key on, so you won't see any pressure until cranking.

Looks to me like the gauge remains at whatever the last reported psi was after shutdown. the rest of the operation looks normal. Contact Issopro and see what they say.

You don't even wanna start that contest. I promise you I would win.....bailing wire is holding the turbo controller screen to the dash

Yea OD is when the TC is working the hardest. However if the pump seal is leaking and you are bleeding pressure you might notice slipping.

nope, Clean the window with some rubbing alcohol, ensure a good tight seal then rotate the collar to attach it. It is a VERY tight seal. Buzzin, you have no idea..... my truck really is a piece, but I only paid $1000 for it and it just keeps going.

The issue was there when I pulled the Transfercase apart, so I have to assume something wore out, or moved etc. The input bearing is correct, or at least it matches the bearing I pulled out of the case and it does use a c clip to set position. It is seated flush and everything is happy for the bearing. I agree %100 that the mainshaft depth is controlled by the input bearing, but there is nothing between the input flange and the input bearing to allow you to set depth. The only thing that is on the mean shaft assembly that can set depth is that bearing assembly that the main shaft sits in. I set that bearing so that I now have no grinding. I really don't think this is the correct thing to do, but it works and there is 0 chance of it coming out due to the 1/16" position movement compared to be bottomed out. The above picture is with the trans in 2wd so it's position is correct.

Here ya go. Lower screen is the turbo controller the upper is the quadzilla screen.

Dont worry you are fine no 215 pumps are out there anymore, at least new. The SO will work perfect for you.

We have all FSM's hosted that has all of this, but we require membership fees to pay for the download bandwidth. https://mopar1973man.com/files/category/8-factory-service-manuals/

The seal on the front of the trans between the tc input and the trans can tear. could also be the pump seal. only way to know is to tear it apart.

wow ouch.

early trucks where 215. mine was a 215 hp truck

Doesn't matter, the roaster comb controls how much throw is in the collar. I think I have it figured out. Not sure if I am doing it right, but you can set the main shaft depth by part #7 on page 556 https://mopar1973man.com/external-media/pdf/2000Ramparts.pdf#view=FitB&page=556 The main shaft bottoms out on it. How my shaft sits now I dunno if you are supposed to set it there, but that's the only place I could find.

Alright here are some pictures. both are the collar in 2wd position, you can see in picture 1 that there is an overhang and the slight damage to the teeth. 2nd is what I would think it should be like

Is it engine oil or trans fluid?

gesh I have no idea hahahahahaha, I only setup some of the permissions, can't expect me to remember them.

nope, no different than running in the summertime on a hot day.

All modes are built into the switch. The cost for just a mpg switch would be very close to all 3 modes. You can just leave it in mpg mode.

the chart is for wiretap. Your edge not wiretapped cannot put out more than 65 hp over stock or lvl 2. Anything over lvl2 is no different if your wiretap is not plugged in. for main level adjustments not sub level lvl1 = timing only lvl2 = timing +canbus fueling lvl3 - lvl 5 = timing + canbus fueling + increasing wiretap fueling ( VERY ROUGH numbers as an example) lvl 3 give you a max of %33 more fuel compared to stock, so canbus message fueling override + %15 wiretap ms increase, lvl 4 gives you a max of %50 more fuel compared to stock, so canbus message fueling override + %30 wiretap ms increase, lvl 5 gives you a max of %75 more fuel compared to stock, so canbus message fueling override + %50 wiretap ms increase, Keep in mind the tuning is VERY dynamic so there is no set MS set for the solenoid to be open. The is altered by a vast number of different sensor inputs. again the above is just rough numbers as I have no idea what edge actually does for MS increase. the sublevel just changes how much the tuner fuels before 10 psi of boost. The lower the sublevel the less fuel is injected before 10 psi is reached. So take all of the above then just move the point where it happens below or above 10psi

Tom, The wiretap difference is HUGE. The quadzilla can produce nearly %100 more power than stock due to it. If you double the length of time the solenoid is help open you will inject ~2x the fuel.

...phsh you think I checked something before I tore into it No shims or anything. I am looking through the parts blow out now and I don't see much in terms of shims. There are some in the planetary set, but the old ones don't look worn at all.....

The FSM has what you are looking for pages 297-306 for the 2001. As exmaple