Me78569

nice looking car. sadly I had to pass on both the e34 wagon and the e28 5 series. They both wanted WAY too much for them lol.

jumper remove = 98-00 jjumper installed = 01/02 If it was removed when you checked it is setup right. edit; Was your ecm or motor ever swapped? the obd reading 36 psi tells me your code reader isn't reading boost correct. With the quad plugged in you should only ever see ~16psi from the ecm due to boost fooling.

easy with only opacity testing 7000' altitude towing my horse trailer snap throttle input take off. WOT take off keep in mind that neirher of those videos are my emissions tune. The emissions tune was recorded at %5 or %7 opacity under the tests they run here 35 lug down 45 mph lug down 55 mph lug down. here is the datalog from the emissions

please check the jumper on the box. FYI it is impossible for the ecm to see 36 psi at wot, that boost fooling curciut will not allow it.

the emissions tune is ment to be run on lvl 3, not lvl 1. If you want to run on lvl1 then you should be adjusting the valet mode power setting down until you are happy.

Have you called quadZilla? I'd start there.

Look at the quadzilla tips and tricks article in the articles section. It has pictures

10 psi offset sounds like the difference between a early and late gen truck map reading. Inside the box what is the jumper setting set to ?

I would do a check on all fluids then. rent an oil pressure gauge from autozone and test your fuel pressure. Get an obdlink reader and you can verify all the sensor data, including rail pressure.

Do you have a rail pressure gauge? the stock pump does just fine. might be worth seeing what your pump is doing with a fuel pressure gauge, but I would not throw money at an issue that may or may not exist.

given your cold climate I would NOT alter pop pressure. The gains that might be had would be far outweighed by not being able to start the truck. the ONLY time someone should alter pop from the normal if if THEY want to R&D with it. You are breaking you own trail by alter pop.

I like the meat, I could care less about the hunt. I would be A-OK shooting a Elk tied to a tree.

I wish hunting was like that.

hunting unit 68

We are hunting a new area so we dont really know what to expect, but cooler weather at night really helps get the herd moving back and forth between high and low. please be late rutt.

I just hope it stays cold in the morning, Bambi is scheduled to meet his maker in the next 7 days same goes for bambi's bigger cousin elki AKA it is hunting season and I need cool weather to push the animals into the area where we hunt.

? I was wondering the same thing actually. The IR stuff looks good, but HF earthquake stuff is rated pretty good.

was 17 monday morning, I think it is 60 now lol. Stupid Colorado.

i started putting socks on. wife says I look funny in my sandals

Meh I could see how wiretap could burn up a fueling solenoid due to extra heat build up in the solenoid wiring. I dont think it is a major reason for failure though. timing piston failure is a MUCH bigger issue. 10:1 if I look through the posts

sounds like a map sensor reading 0 psi or disconnected Any codes when you scan?

yes

No, but also unneeded if the pump is good.

Guessing the gauge is kaput verify what fuel presdure with a second gauge. Can't answer the question until we know if the first gauge is right, 30 psi high for a VP setup

Thanks for the post EricPeterson on Cumminsforum So there's talk and talk and talk about the Thuren front toe-on specs ( zero or near zero ) vs. the stock toe-in specs ( 1/8" ). And there are tons of comments from guys who adjust toe themselves. And yet in the couple years I've been on here, I haven't actually seen an explanation of that. So let's address determining if you've got too much toe and then the pitfalls of having someone else try to set it for you, and then I'll post some easy pics. First, there's a simple way to tell if you have too much toe-in long before your tire edges are scrubbed off. Look at the finest cut lines inside the blocks nearest the outer edge -- the sipes. If the back edges of forward-pointing bends in the sipes are lifted and you can feel them bent upwards, you're scrubbing the outer edges of your tires and they will wear too fast. The tire wear surface should be flat. If there are edges of sipes lifted, the tire is seeing deformation and heating that's in excess of desirable wear parameters. Second, there's no need to take your truck in to a shop and argue with them over which set of specs to use. Some shops will never agree to use anything but stock specs because that's all their computers understand, and some might agree to use a non-stock spec... and use the default factory specs anyway because they'll assume their computers know best. And still others may agree but might not have the expertise to make their alignment computers dance properly to your custom settings. And then there are shops who can't do the work properly at all, under any circumstances. I do not believe in this day and age that that leaves many candidate shops at all. So... assuming your hub kingpins are tight, and your tie-rod ends are good, it's VERY easy to adjust toe-in yourself. Get some good duct tape and two identical plumb bobs for carpentry work. An additional tool might be a stable linear straight edge 8-feet long, like a nice piece of aluminum tile flooring threshold, or a simple piece of hot rolled steel flat. In a pinch you can use a tape measure, but you'll likely need a helper to hold it. Step 1: Jack your front axle so that each front tire is just barely off the ground. I use two jacks -- one under the pumpkin and one under the cast reinforcement on the long side -- so I can get each tire just at the right height. Step 2: Duct tape a plumb bob line to each front tire's forward side, approximately on the centerline, so that the bob hangs with its pointer just off the ground and the tape holding the line securely at that point where the line touches the tire tread. They don't have to be exactly on the tire centerlines; we're dealing with a difference here, so the errors zero out. Step 3: Take a stable linear reference -- like hot rolled flat shown in the photos -- and mark the locations where the plumb bobs point. I moved the flat until it was even with one side, and used another piece of duct tape to make the other side. Step 4: Rotate both tires so that the plumb bobs are hanging behind the tires. Move the straight edge behind the tires too. Take a look where the pointers fall. You'll note in the 3rd and 4th images that the right bob falls about an eighth of an inch further outboard than in front. This is 1/8" toe-in. I locked everything down at this point and after a day of driving noted that the back edges of my outboard sipes were lifting. Too much toe-in. I repeated the adjustment, turning the tie rod adjustment longer until the distance between bobs front and rear was as identical as I could make it, with perhaps only a touch of toe-in. This required only about 45 degrees of turn on the adjustment sleeve on my Synergy HD tie rod assembly. This is near-zero toe. Locked it down again. Done. View full Cummins article