AH64ID

Another great option for the intake tube is the AirRaid MIT (Modular Intake Tube). I recommend the MIT because of 2 reasons. The first is that it retains the lower elbow and the 04.5-07's have directional vanes in the lower elbow. I read an article from Holset that said those vanes help the turbo be up to 30% more efficient. The article didn't mention the circumstances where the vanes offer the 30% efficiency increase but thinking about it from an aerodynamic standpoint I would think it is during periods of low turbo rpms, which will improve airflow and spool at throttle changes. The second reason I like the MIT is that is provides the proper taper from the inlet to the exhaust which matches the difference in internal diameter of the stock elbows. I run the OEM filter (I hear Wix is the same, or VERY similar but I hate giving money to Wix) and even with ~140 more rwhp than stock, a slightly larger turbo, and a bigger cam I cannot move my filter minder. The OEM filter just plain moves a LOT of air.

Torque is NOT the same on a Touch as it was on the Jr... TQ at 3 on a stock auto as asking to fix it fast... If your goal is to run lower power for the life of the trans I would try the following. SW1 Timing 2/default RP 1 TQ 1 I think you will get similar power out of SW/Timing2 as SW3/Timing1, but get better mileage and have lower EGT's on SW1 with timing. The timing is the #1 reason to run a Smarty, so IMO running stock timing on a 05 is Stock timing is horrible. Now you just need to move that pyro probe to the collector...

My foam insulation between the OEM box and the fender deteriorated and I removed it. It fills about a 1/2" gap between the box and fender and the fender is open. Even with the CAI mod I have noticed that the pre-turbo temps, when towing up a grade, are 15-20° high with that being gone. I would hate to see the pre-turbo temps with a box that isn't sealed. I am trying to decide how to fix it but I am leaning towards a small piece of foam with the proper cutout. My point is that underhood temps are high on these trucks and underhood air is not what you want to feed your turbo with.

Set the PoD to 90, get a clean air filter and try again. If that doesn't work try timing on 3. As far as air filters you cannot, and will not, get better performance than an OEM box with an OEM filter and a Home Depot cold air intake at that power level. Anything else is going to compromise filtration and/or intake air temp. BHAFs are not the best idea on HPCRs, and if it wasn't for the fact the OEM boxes are prone to sealing issues on a 2nd gen I would say the same thing for them. HOT engine bay air is NOT what you want to feed your turbo with.

That video does a great job showing why the MH cover has the predrilled/tapped port for a temp sender at the top of the cover.

Front and rear wheel bearings are compleatly different in terms of lubrication method and as a hd truck mechanic you should know that.... There is a HUGE different in the design of the axle/hub for bearings that are lubed by being packed with grease and those that are lubed with gearlube, again something you should know as a hd truck mechanic. No one has said that packed wheel bearings don't last, the point is that packing wheel bearings in a rear axle designed to lube with gear lube is going to block the flow of gear lube. Wheel bearing grease doesn't get hot and run away, it stays there unless it is overheated.

The 05 certainly doesn't need the 140wt as AAM specs 90wt for all GCWR's for that axle, unless you operate above GCWR in death valley most the time. I thought Dana liked a heavier lube for guys who tow/haul heavy? Both being a 80w or 75w means they will flow the same when cold/cool and just stay thicker when hot. I am not sure that the oil flow while leaning is the same as the oil flow while driving. Gravity flow is much different than what is going on 65 mph on an interstate. Put a drop of grease in a mason jar and top it off with gear lube. Shake it a few times a day and see how long it takes to dissolve/dilute the grease. I know that even chemical grease solvents have a hard time with wheel bearing grease.

How will cool gear lube wash out high temp grease? I don't see that happening, what I see instead is grease blocking the flow of gear lube especially if it is as thick as it is in the photos. The only way that grease will leave is by getting too hot and turning to liquid, which is more likely than not. At that point it is too late and failure is imminent. I still cannot believe you guys do this. I have never heard of it and it makes no logical sense and the more I think about it then worse the idea becomes. If I found out someone used wheel bearing grease in my rear wheel bearings I would park the truck until it was fixed.

Which side is the breather on? I am guessing the left side. Keep your AAA up as I don't think those bearings will like the first heavy highway trip with the grease like that. It would be a far better use of your time to pull them apart and clean them now. You said it has 300K miles on it... The factory method of luring the bearings works.

I bet the mileage would fall off like a brick off a cliff. Half power means that the engine is operating in all the wrong zones cruising, or just plain driving. CR's are great you can, potentially, tune a 600hp motor to get better mileage than a 300hp one.

That is a lot of crud!! That red grease could inhibit the gear lube flow. I really don't think I would want any of that in there. Just install it like they do at the factory. I am assuming you are nervous about what just happened. I have been there with wheel bearing issues and it SUCKS!!! But the people that designed the system know what they are doing, for the most part. If your old ones didn't fail from lack of lube then the new ones shouldn't either, assuming they get a good coat of lube to start with.

Amsoil also has a 75w-110 if you want a little more protection. The Amsoil 80w and Delvac 80w should flow similar but I bet the Amsoil has better cold flow due it being synthetic.

Just be glad you caught it before the race spun in the axle and ruined the housing.

The oil could be 300deg and it wouldnt matter. The lateral forces just do not exist driving in figure 8's to move the oil that far, it takes race car cornering and rar car tire lateral traction. Gravity still plays its role and axle tubes are no exception. Gear lube is slung along the axleshaft to the bearings and that is how it lubricates. Dont forget I live in a hotter part of Idaho than you do, and it still is not hot enough to get gear lube to go to the bearings from figure 8's.

I am not sure I agree with hand packing rear axle bearings. Packing bearing and splash lubed bearings are two different styles of lube, thou both can work on either bearing based on the hub design. Rear axles are not designed to have the bearing packed. Having the bearings packed with WB grease will effect how well the gear lube gets into the bearing. I still laugh at the figure 8 thing. The axle sits flat and just how many lateral G's do you think you can build up in a parking lot. You would be lucky to get cold gear lube 1/8th of the way down the axle tube from figure 8's. If rear axle wheel bearings took that much effort to lube then axles wouldnt be on the road after 100 miles. Install them with lube according to the service manual and drive. Axles don't fail leaving the dealership lot and nobody does figure 8's when they buy a new car, it is really a very simple process they just need lube when installed.

Putting the bearing in dry was the issue, you should have put some oil on it to begin with. Short trips push less oil to the bearings due to centrifugal force, heat, etc. The axle also don't need the added lube in those uses, unless the bearing is installed dry. To be honest I am surprised you got 48 miles out of it. INSTALLATION (1) Thoroughly clean both axle bearings and interior of the hub with an appropriate cleaning solvent. (2) Install the bearing cups. Use Installer 8153 and Handle C-4171 to install the bearing cups. (3) Apply lubricant to surface area of the bearing cup. (4) Install the inner axle bearing in the hub. (5) Install a new bearing grease seal. Use Installer 8152 and Handle C-4171 to install the grease seal. (6) Inspect the bearing and seal contact surfaces on the axle tube spindle for burrs and/or roughness. Remove all the rough contact surfaces from the axle spindle. Apply a coating of multi-purpose NLGI, grade 2, EP-type lubricant to the axle. CAUTION: Use care to prevent the bearing grease seal from contacting the axle tube spindle threads during installation. Otherwise, the seal could be damaged. (7) Carefully slide the hub onto the axle. (8) Install the outer axle bearing. (9) Install the hub bearing adjustment nut. Use Socket DD-1241–JD to install the adjustment nut. (10) Tighten the adjustment nut to 163-190 N·m (120-140 ft. lbs.) while rotating the wheel. (11) Loosen the adjustment nut 1/8 of-a-turn to provide 0.001-inch to 0.010-inch wheel bearing end play. (12) Tap the locking wedge into the spindle keyway and adjustment nut. Try to ensure that the locking wedge is installed into a new position in the adjustment nut. (13) Install the axle shaft. (14) Install the brake drum. (15) Install the wheel and tire assembly.

Yeah but you are not going to run into that much lateral force on a HD pickup, not without different tires and driving style. I would actually be shocked if it did blow out the breather tube, as they vent from the top of the axle housing. If they axle was designed to lubricate the wheel bearings that way they would all fail.

That is not true. The axle shafts have a grove in them that slings oil to the wheel bearings.

They aren't splashed but oil should travel down the axle shaft and lube the bearings, even on a flat highway. You should have had some oil on them by 40 miles. Where they bone dry? Is your diff properly serviced?

Hard parts are not always cosistant, especially if they rotate. I have seen hard parts that need to have 2 bad surfaces line up for noise and they dont always do that. Wrist pins are also possible for intermittant knocks based on irregular wear and rotation, they basically change the compression ratio. I know the feeling of rebuilding a motor that didn't need it... but oh well I now I have a fresh/better motor.

It really doesnt sounds like an injection issue to me.... but it is hard to diagnose over the interweb of sound conversion.

To be honest I have never heard a good thing about MOOG joints on 3rd gens. Unless your alxe is bent you do not need camber adjustment, as bad camper generally means bad ball joint. The Dynatracs are also good joint for less money with a better track record. The current Carli's are supposed to be good, but time will tell.

Sale price is $875. http://smartyresource.com PM me if you need a dealer.

MADS pricing is mfgr set, but there is a Touch speical running for May.

Are you not going to tank the block? I fiugred you would tank it to clean out all the hidden oil and coolant passages, since it is out.