AH64ID

Torsion has it's place, but for my TT I want leaf's.

Cost is a big one, ride height is another, and ride as well I would presume since a Torsion needs a minimum of 30% of it's weight on it to have any spring action. Some TT's have torsion, like the Lance campers IIRC and some BIG 5ers have the mor/ryde setups.

Each of the 2 springs eye's has a bushing, as does the shackle attachment point on both sides of the equalizer. The only place there isn't a bushing and wet bolt is the center pin bolt, as with this setup the rotation around this bolt is not on the bolt but around a sleeve that is kept from moving with the bolt. I think that answered your question, if not I am not sure I understand what you mean.

I got it from Trailer Parts Superstore for $170 shipped. It seems to vary from $170 to $250 shipped. I used part number K71-652-00 I have attached a pdf on picking the proper part. EZ Flex Equalizers--Determining Proper Unit.pdf

I currently have Goodyear Marathon in 225/75R15 LRD and they have been good to me. I have 6 of them and rotate the spares in each year, and this will be my 3rd season on them. I think it will also be the last, they are pretty worn down for only 7K miles. I hear some refer to the Marathons as China Bombs, but in around 15-20K miles of towing (lots of rough roads) the only 2 flats I have had where on my old TT and they where rock punctures. I do like the look of the Maxxis, and don't want to upgrade to 16" rims for LT tires, so I might give them a try.

I have been wanting to upgrade the bolts/bushings on my TT from the OEM dry bolts and nylon bushings to wet bolts and bronze bushings. I found that the complete kit from Dexter was the best way to go, not only do I get the wet bolts and bronze bushings, but I get their EZ-Flex equalizer which will absorb more impact shock than the springs alone. I got the kit a couple months ago, and just got around to installing it last week. The parts are excellent quality, and based on the condition of the OEM nylon bushings I was due. I have approx 7K miles on my TT, many of those on rough dirt roads, and about 1/3 of the OEM bushings wouldn't have made it another season without wearing completely thru. A couple of them where already worn thru in a spot or two. Here you can see the difference in the equalizer, and a slight dimension difference. According to other folks on the interwebs the slight difference will drop the trailer height about 3/8", but I didn't notice any change. The shackles are aslo MUCH larger and stronger, which is good as the OE shackle holes where no longer round. And finally the installed product. I have about 130 miles on the trailer with the kit, of which 65 are on a rough dirt road, and it made a noticeable improvement in the ride and shock transferred to the truck. At the same time I installed the Centramatic wheel balancers that have been in the garage since December. All in all I am very happy with the mod, and highly suggest the kit to anyone who needs to service their trailer suspension.

I personally consider them quite different. Timbrens go on your OE bumpstops, whereas stable loads make the upper overloads engage sooner. I have never been fond of the Timbren style modification, but like the stable loads.. only the upper stable loads, I think the lower stable loads are a horrible idea.

Looking good, you will really appreciate the exhaust brake around here. I wouldn't want to drive these roads with a load without an exhaust brake.

I figured will all the back road stuff you do that you would have wanted 2Lo. Yes there is a little more maintenance every 2 years, but you also don't have to worry about a front driveshaft or axle ujoint failing and leaving you stranded, or needing placed which on the axle shaft means removing the sealed bearing. Most sealed bearings fail with little warning or miles to react and it seems aftermarket ones are only a fraction of OE quality.

I would leave the OEM housing in the system, keep a Baldwin PF7977 in there.

Even Bosch remans have issues typical of remans, and of the remans they seem to be the best but still the best advice is new only.

I have been buying white lightning at the local liquor store for the camper for the last year or so, it tastes pretty real.

I would think twice about remans, haven't heard about too many of them actually working for too long, or at all.

The ISSPRO EV2's are as good as it gets IMHO.

My batteries want to charge at Bulk: 14.2-14.6 Absorption: 14.2-14.6 Float: 13.1-13.4 That is all at 77°F, there is a temp chart but I don't have temp compensation. The one converter I know of with compensation doesn't charge at the proper voltages anyhow. They have a very low internal resistance and can charge at rates up to 750AH, but recommended is anything up to 300AH.

Injector rattle will increase, hard start, more smoke (depends on the status of you cat), rough idle, and decreased mileage can all be a sign of early failure. I haven't heard anything good about any injector with the word reman in it, anywhere. I have 4K miles on my BBi's and they are still impressing me. The easiest thing would be BBi Stage 1 for MY04.5. If that was too much money the BMS 50's, AKA QSB440, would be the next best. The Bosch Marine (BMS) stuff is great, but only comes in the 03-04 spray angle. From what I gather people are having good luck on smaller size injectors swapping to the 03-04 spray angle. It is a wider angle, and apparently creates a better burn in the cylinder with the POS 04.5-07 piston. I haven't ever personally ran them with MY04.5 pistons, but know many have/are.

I have been reading quite a bit about different converters and charge rates, specifically some claims that PD's seem to drop off earlier than other brands. That is not what I have noticed on my setup, so I figured I would test mine from 50% SOC and take some notes. The batteries are a pair of Lifeline AGM GPL-6CT 300AH 6V's, which where new this spring. The converter is a Progressive Dynamics PD4655 that was new in 2013. I got the batteries drained down to an approx 50% SOC (12.21V after sitting disconnected for ~1 hour). I was plugged into a 30A RV circuit on my house, with an input AC voltage of 118.2±0.5V thru-out the test. I took readings every 1 minute for the first 15 minutes, then every 5 for the first hour, then every 15 thru 3 hours, and finally 30 minute readings until 5.5 hours. The voltage at the converter was taken where the leads are soldered into the board with a handheld fluke. The battery voltage was taken by the lead that feeds my Blue Sea voltmeter off of the distribution panel. I want to rewire the sample location to the lug on the battery box, but I haven't yet. It's less than 3' of wire from the box to the distro panel. My ammeter is also a Blue Sea model. I feel there is adequate wiring, the converter came with 10ga leads soldered to the board which are approx 10" long. From the board the positive side has ~18" of 6ga to the battery switch, then approx 18" of 2ga to the batteries. The negative side also has ~18" of 6ga to the neg bus bar, then ~10" of 6ga to the shunt, and then ~18" of 2ga to the batteries. The batteries are connected with a 6" section of 1ga. I stated the test and began recording data. I didn't realize it for the first 6 minutes but the converter was not in "boost" mode. I gained around 0.6A by going into boost mode. I was current limited at that point still so the difference didn't amount to much in the total charge time. I don't have a way to calculate amp hours in/out of the batteries but I did a linear calculation based on the amp hours. So over a 15 minute sample if the starting charge rate was 38.6A and the ending charge rate was 32.5A the average was 35.55A meaning that approx 8.9A where put into the batteries over that 15 minutes. It's not the most accurate, but better than nothing and probably pretty close. I used that to estimate the SOC, key word is estimate. This first graph is the voltages and current. As you can see it holds a constant 56.4A for the first 15 minutes, but then only tapers down to 54.7A on the sample just before the converter voltage hitting the 14.47 set point at 90 minutes (the measured set point for my specific PD4655). This graph shows the charge rate versus estimated SOC. You will noticed that the estimated SOC goes above 100%, this is based on my calculated SOC. This is the sample data. I am estimating 50-90 time at 2.5 hours. I didn't include the data from the 10 hour mark, but at 10 hours the voltage was 13.75 and current had dropped to 1.4A. According to Lifeline the batteries are fully charged when the current drops below 0.5A per 100AH, or 1.5A for these. On long camping trips a 10 hour generator run every few charges will be required. Based on the large capacity of the batteries the PD held full amperage for quite a while, but even on smaller or non-AGM batteries I feel it would have held full amperage until the voltage on the circuit board was 14.47. This is where wiring is crucial.

I went out to see how much hot water I could get out before it went cold and then remembered my 2nd chest freezer still blocks it. I am guessing, like you mentioned, it depends completely on design/brand. I have had it work well with 2 Natural Gas heaters and 1 Propane.

Must not be CR trucks, as the return flow is not factored in the overhead mpg computation. There are other reasons why worn injectors may effect the OH, but return flow is not one of them. There also aren't any 5.9 CR's that only run .5-1mpg of error, or the owner is lying to you (Or they get about 5mpg). The calibration table is the same from 03-07, regardless of 03-04 or 04.5-07 injectors... let that sink in, and it helps realize why there is so much error.

I am going to respectfully disagree, based 100% on experience. I have used the spigot for washing road ice off of cars and even in 30° weather it's still too hot to touch after many minutes of operation. There is no cold water in the bottom of the tank, even the cold water that enters the bottom of the tank mixes with the hot water instantly (hot and cold water are not like oil/water). The thermostat is in the bottom of the tank, as is the heating apparatus. The water coming out the bottom will be hot (not quite as hot as the top, but still hot). I have done this on at least 3 different hot water heaters with the same results, hot water out the bottom.. not cold.

Not really true on a 3rd gen. They are very inaccurate to begin with. The way the 3rd gen calculates is also different, you could be leaking a lot of fuel and still have the same reading. The calculation is based off of commanded mm3, which is a function of rail pressure and injector open time. It should be VERY accurate, but it isn't.

I have used the spigot on my hot water heater in winter and the water is indeed hot.

Ditch the Edge and get a Smarty, better yet get a Smarty with custom UDC tuning. You probably won't see a huge gain, but a little should be had.

Hot water does rise, but they heat from the bottom. There shouldn't be but a few degrees difference, and IIRC the thermostat is in the bottom too.

That's a weird one... Two hot water heaters? Is there another one somewhere else? Pics of the current "hot water heater"?