AH64ID

I have 65 mph tires, and have ran at 65-70 for hours on end an my only failures have been punctures on slow dirt roads. If you are inflated to max pressure and aren't at max weight (or close) then running 65 will keep the tires cool and you shouldn't have issues. 14" tires on a GVW of 7K seems small. Even the little 7K cargo trailers I was looking at today have 15" rims. It's a good call to change the tires, I wouldn't run on 16 year old trailer tires.. heck some won't run on 5 year old trailer tires.

2011 Creekside 26BKS by Outdoors RV Purchased new in 2012 SPECIFICATIONS: 29'3'' Trailer Length 26'4" House Length 51' 7" Truck and Tailer 12'x3' Slide 2x 5200lb AL-KO Spring Over Axles 6350lb base weight ~8000-8500lb Camping Weight ~1150lb Tongue Weight 56 Gallon fresh water 40 Gallon black water 40 Gallon gray water 2x 30 lb Propane Tanks 18' Electric Awning 4 Season Package w/ heated and enclosed underbelly 10W Solar Panel MODS: 2x Lifeline GPL-6CT 300AH 6V Batteries relocated inside Zantrex 1500W inverter with 2 inline transfer relays Progressive Dynamics PD4655 55A Converter Blue Sea Digital Voltmeter Blue Sea Digital Ammeter Supco SPP6E Capacitor on A/C Oversize Dinet Table with 13" Leaf 2x Honda EU2000i Generators 2 Gal Pressure Tank LED's in all fixtures 12V Fridge Fan Equal-i-Zer 1,200/12K WDH Rock Tamer Hitch Mounted Mud-Flaps Custom 2" Receiver Hitch, with 5 Bike CURT rack AWS 870 16x6" Aluminum Trailer Wheels LT225/75R16 Bridgestone R500HD

I made some more progress today. I got the battery box built, and stuffed in its cubby. I had to build most if it I place as it is much larger than the opening to the cubby. I then got all the wiring hooked up, and wired the inverter in. I then did a load test on the inverter with 1500w, which is the max continuous rating of the inverter. The batteries were at 12.95V at the beginning of the check. I let it run for a few minutes so I could check the converter to see if it would put 55A out and it does. Here are some random pics of the install. The wiring may look like a rats nest, but it's actually very neat. There just happens to be a lot there as that photo is taken thru the distribution panal opening. I still have to make the vent, and do the 110V wiring for the inline transfer relays. Once that is done I will do some load testing with the tv and such.

It sounds like you need the bigger wiring from the batteries to the 12V distro panal hooked up, that's quite the voltage drop for 60 deg outside. What size wire is in there now? My old setup (25' of 8ga and 170 AH) would drop from 12.7 to 11.8-12.2 with the heater depending on ambient temp and run time. I haven't played with the new one much but it so far hasn't dropped below 12.75 from 12.95 (3' of 6ga min and 300 AH). My heater draws about 7.5-8A while running, for reference, so for every 10 min of operation you would need 23-25 min of direct sunlight. What size/group/quantity battery do you have now?

I am not 100% sure of operation on a 2002, but I do believe it is a glorified idiot light. On a 2003+, for sure, it has to see 0 psi for 30 seconds before the dash alarm goes off and the needle moves. AFIK the late 2nd gens with the "updated" software are the same, only uses the transducer as a on/off switch.

In your 02 I am not certain that it shows accurate pressure anyhow.

Synthetics also shine on the hot side when towing. I see a much bigger pressure drop pulling a grade with Dino vs Synthetic.

I turned the freezer down to -10F, the Dino oil took a 10 count to run all the way down the side (but dripped some down the middle at a 5 count), the synthetic poured down the side in a 3 count. I'll stick to synthetics.

Interesting! I threw some in the freezer :-)

I was referring to the road trip where your rail pressure sensor failed, you were probably holding 26K psi against the HPRV at times. If you run RP1 then the most your should see is 23,206 give or take a little. On the stock, RP1, table you won't get above 21K until your above 2200 rpms.

It would, 8D's can have a lot of amp hours. That's not a bad idea actually. Is it a starting or deep cycle? What brand? A deep cycle 8D is 200-255 AH battery (depending on brand), I think the best Group 24's are about 85 or 170 combined. It would take a switch like this to have 1 charger and 2 separate banks. The charger hooks into the distro board, so only 1 switch is needed. http://www.bluesea.com/products/11001

Sounds like one of those braille jobs with a radiator in your gut.

What if you come from the top?

Your best bet would be to put a pair of 6's on the tongue, and the cheapest would be to relocate the 24's inside into a sealed/vented box. The increase in available amp hours from warm batteries would be substantial.

You typically want batteries to be matched in design and rating.

I am not going to, I really don't see the need. I am not even sure how they would leak as they can be mounted in any direction.

Under normal operation they vent less than 2% hydrogen (4% is required for combustion), but even with that I am going to vent them. The spot in photo #2 is directly behind the wall where the batteries are in photo #1. I need the plywood to be able to move them into place. If you look at photo #2 you can see the 4 1/2" holes I drilled into the enclosed underbelly for fresh air inlet, I will then run a hose from the top of the box to the outside of the camper. Where they are sitting in the photos is just for testing.

I'll take those issues any day to be in the mountains

I hooked up the batteries to test the shunt and put a charge on them. Well they didn't need much of a charge it took less than 5 minutes to be at 1.5A charge rate (Lifeline says they are charged when charge rate drops to 0.5A per 100 AH). I turned the furnace on and it draws about 7.7 amps, resulting in a 0.2V drop vs the 0.5-0.7V drop on the old setup. On the old batteries when the converter would step down the voltage from bulk to absorb to float the voltage would fall off instantly, the new batteries take a long time to drop. In fact when I went from bulk to float after 5 minutes the voltage was still about .4V above the charge rate and wasn't charging. I think these batteries will have a lot of power, especially for winter use. The box is close to being done. I have the support skeleton built and need to get the plywood. I went to Lowe's and was ready to get the wood and have them cut it, but their saw was broke so I need to go across town to a different one. Those 1/2" holes are going to be the inlet for the vent. I need to test and make sure it flows, but it should.

Yes it will freeze, but much colder than water. Anti-Freeze, not Never-Freeze. How does it not expand? I know that coolant (anti-freeze) will expand when it freezes and will pop blocks and radiators, how is the RV stuff not any different? The p-trap probably didn't need replacing because it has room to expand back towards the sink and down the drain.

Yeah, but you can never make it 100% liquid free. You can pull things apart to get the p traps dry, but it's easier to dump a little anti-freeze in. I am going to guess that the professional winterization either forgot to dump anti-freeze in the sinks or they diluted their stuff to save money. There is a big difference in -50° and -10°.

I thought the pink stuff was good to -50??? While my fresh water gets minimal anti-freeze I do pour it down the drains to ensure the p-traps don't freeze.

My instructions state to either blow it out or use anti-freeze. I have seen several pumps fail from just using air alone, which is why I do both. It doesn't get crazy cold here, but it will dip below 0 so I so t want to mess with it. On my trailer the first thing inline after the pump is the low point drain so the cup of anti-freeze comes right out and doesn't contaminate the system. I only put anti-freeze in the pump for the main winterization. In between late winter trips I just blow it out, unless the forecast is for 15ish or colder.

The dash gauge is compleaty fake, it's moved by an algorithm in the ECM and not a pressure sender. There isn't even a pressure sender on the 3rd gen engines. Any movement in the dash is based on ECM output and nothing else. The sender is a 5v sender, the gauge itself regulates the truck voltage down to 5v and the sender then returns the voltage according to pressure. I run the same electrical senders for boost, fuel pressure, and drive pressure.

I only use about a cup of antifreeze, just enough to keep the pump from freezing. Even horizontally when winterize it I get nearly all the water put just with air. I pressurize the system and then open the low point drain, the air leaving the tank pulls most the water with it. I removed my tank last week and there wasn't any water to speak of coming out of it when I held it vertical.