AH64ID

I had mine horizontal and my dad has his vertical with the connection down. With the precharge the same we both get the same amount of water after pump has been shut off. I am having to move mine, I am not sure how I want to mount it. I have thought about mounting it with the inlet up and a needle valve to bleed all the air but it will be harder to winterize and I am not sure I will get any extra water.

Michael... We need a "Members Trailers" forum in the Community area. This forum is great for mods and working, but it would be fun to have a forum like the members rides for trailers/RV's.

It's electrical, an ISSPRO EV2. How does that defeat the purpose of having it? I reads oils pressure, that's the purpose. There are two fittings on my oil filter housing, but I am taking pressure from the main rifle above the ECM.

My brother and I spent a few hours this morning cutting cables and installing the ammeter, battery switch, and inverter switch. All the cables are cut and crimped for the entire job. The distribution panal supply wiring was upgraded to 6 from 8ga. The distribution box will have about 4' of positive cable and 2' of negative cable, 1/2 of each is 2ga. A big difference over 25' of 8 ga that it came with. The next step is building the battery box. I got a call on Friday that my vents were in, so I will pick that up as well as a sheet of 1/4" plywood on Monday.

I got tired of towing one kitchen and then setting up another outside, so most my cooking and prep is inside but we cook a lot over the fire too. Our microwave started getting loose last summer so now it sits in the garage, we never used it anyhow.

I would be more worried about the possible effect of 26K psi on your injectors over the smarty.

Normally it would not, but since you don't have PoD I would recommend it. It's a much bigger upgrade.

If you want to mail me your Smarty I could update it for you.

The new tunes are much smoother and more linear.

The stock timing (and maybe Smarty too) really kills mileage above 2000, it's one of the things I fixed on my UDC tune so now I battle wind resistance not timing.

3rd Gen's aren't very fond of single event tunes, there are some that run them but from what I gather they haze all the time. Most run a pilot for control and haze killing, a pilot is a good thing. In fact some run a post at low rpms to spool overly large singles, but most delete the post event. Interesting, what kid of tuning are they running? Sure doesn't make any logical sense. The injectors operate at idle and WOT, they don't know the difference other than open time. I would guess lack of fuel into the CP3 and not out of it, but hard to say with internet troubleshooting... I can tell you that what you are describing doesn't make sense and is not common for common rails. Your the first one I have ever heard of adding a CP3 to fix a failing injector issue. There are guys with 800+ on single CP3's, and 600 on stock CP3's, so unless the tune is to blame?????

The turbo is an enabler, thou I have heard reports that the stock turbo does limit power in the upper rpm range.. to hard to say thou. I don't think I ever ran the dyno with just a turbo on stock tuning. I was 415/850 on my Smarty Jr UDC tune, I think the S06 was the same as the tune was nearly identical at WOT. I ran 325/590 on stock about 6 years ago, stock everything.

That's why, if you were to bump above 2,000 rpms the timing starts to fall off VERY fast and so would mileage. But at low load and 2,000 rpms and below the timing is decent. In fact based on how the OEM cruise timing table looks the free spin kit potentially adds more mileage on stock than tuned. Are you on stock sized tires? I looked thru some old threads but couldn't find it. If they are I would try 67 mph, with 265/70/17's it should be 2001 rpms with new tires (increase as they wear). The closer you are to 2000 rpms the better the timing, in fact dropping to 1990 rpms would net better mileage yet.

What rpms do you cruise at? I really noticed the stock tune towing about 8K lbs last summer, even the slightest grade in 6th at 65 would send the truck into WOT.

Haha, I hate driving on a stock tune. I haven't tried a stock tune on the current build thou, it seems to would be a lot peppier with the BBi's but still doggy and laggy compared to a Smarty tune, and UDC is almost as different again. How far has your mileage dropped off?

Interesting, I can't say I have ever seen a lack of pressure cause issues. They will fire with as little as 3K psi. You can run into LONG duration times when you command a long duration at high pressure but the commanded pressure wont hold, but that won't damage the injectors it just runs the EGT's up and the hp down.

Few updates. I spent some time on the dyno last week seeing what the motor likes for timing and fuel and ended up with what I hope is a solid tow tune. I had to bump the fuel up a little over what I have been tuning but not too much. The flow sheets got me very close, and if I were running 23.6K psi I am sure it would have been close but I run less peak pressure. My tow tune came in at 415/800 in 5th gear. I did all my run's in 5th because I didn't want to spin my 75mph rated tired up to 125+. I did do one partial run in 6th to compare mid range tq numbers vs 5th, the 6th run was only up to 2500 rpms. The 5th run made 810 ft/lbs and the 6th made 857 ft/lbs, that tells me that even thou the tune I am running did 415/800 it's probably right at the 415/850 I was at before and right where I want it for where/how I use the truck. I also did 1 run on a simple street tune I wrote, nothing fancy just wanted to see what it would do. 505/950 in 5th, first try. I also did a stock tune run 400/710, that is 75/110 over my 100% stock motor on the same dyno. All numbers were SAE corrected because I felt it was the easiest to compare based on different ambient temps and dyno days. The day after the dino I loaded up the truck and went camping, about 65 miles each way with one 7% grade each way. On the way north I pulled it at 2500 rpms in 5th and peaked at about 1050°, on the return I pulled it at 2200 in 5th and peaked at about 1100°, great EGT's for the speed. With all towing there was no smoke or haze, and the response was excellent. This is a route I have towed on many times over the years. GCW was just over 17K. With my current tire size (245/70R19.5) and the way the motor is built 5th gear is useable from 40-65+ in the mountains and pulls smoothly and cool throughout the range. It was a joy to drive on winding roads, and very smooth and quiet.

talk about your weird resurrections....

Huh, what does a 2nd CP3 have to do with injectors failing?

The Champion's are LOUD, I am not sure I would want one attached to my camper. I camp with a few folks that have them, they all have extra extension cords to put them as far as possible from their camper. I have installed air on a camper that didn't have it, very easy. The hardest part was getting it on top of the roof.

Nope. Under normal operating conditions I am not sure the gain is huge, but add some extra hp, temp, or extreme low temp and they shine.

Both CI and CJ are designed for up to 500 ppm fuel, I am not sure there is any basis behind additives changing on CI 15ppm fuel. CJ has to be 500ppm compatible, and that is the max that CI oil was compatible with. ZDDP is a big deal on flat tappet engines, especially if you run a cam and/or heavier valve springs. The CJ oil is adequate for many, but I don't think it's better than CI-4+ and CI-4+ will last longer. Nearly all of the changes to CJ where based on exhaust after treatment, not the sulfur content.

150-350$ is the range. I sold mine with 56K miles for about 300. I realize you are on a budget but you would be wise to have it rebuilt prior to installing, and at the same time I would have the turbine wheel changed to a larger one. The he351 turbine is not matched for the flow of the compressor and is a cork in the exhaust. It's less that a 1k to have it rebuilt with OEM parts and a larger wheel put in. You will also need a plug for the WG port and an adjustable boost elbow.

Here it is. As I mentioned in the video the oils are Amsoil AME 15w-40 synthetic, Valvoline Premium Blue Conventional 15w-40, and Amsoil SSO 0w-30 gas engine oil. Amsoil AME has a pour point of -44°F, and a CCS Viscosity @ -20°C of 4386. Premium Blue has a pout point of -22°F and a CCS Viscosity @ -20°C of 6500. Amsoil SSO has a pout point of -60°F You can see why one shouldn't run conventional 15w-40 at temps much below -10°F without a block heater. At -5°F the conventional flows okay, and pump-ability will be better than flow but it still took nearly 3x as long to hit the bottom of the jar vs the AME.

You guys are making my truck feel "fat"... It's amazing how much heavier a 3rd gen is than a 2nd gen.. now I do have a few mods that add some weight (some not much, but it does add up). Front Receiver Class V Rear Receiver Rear Sway Bar Spray in Liner Air Bags 4 filters (and plumbing) more than OEM 227 lbs of extra weight for 5x19.5's. The tool box has 3 pairs of HD chains, tools, filters, recovery gear, straps, mantee's, hi-lift, and fuel additive Dodge claims the curb weight is 7600lbs.....