AH64ID

We have 1 in Boise, and rumor is a 2nd one is on the way...

I am sure there is, but in the end it's more fuel than you have air for.

More air or less fuel.... Not many other ways. Between the Smarty, injectors, and comp that's a lot of fuel for the stock turbo. I would pick what you want to run, smarty or edge.

Horsepower takes fuel, even if you don't factor in the extra fuel burn from emissions 385hp is going to burn some diesel when used. I would guess, based on some marine motor specs, that pulling hills with a trailer at 60 would be around 12 GPH.. Which is 5 mpg, and with a sail like a toy hauler you just can't get good enough mileage on the flats to counter the hills. I am probably more fuel efficient per hp and pulling my 8500 toy hauler at 65 I get 10ish depending on the average grade. Speed really kills the mileage, and when you have power you use it, especially on a new 50K truck.

I doubt it, maybe a little as it breaks in but that sounds about right for a toy hauler. It's not the weight, but the frontal area that eats the fuel.

This one? http://idahostatepolice.blogspot.com/2014/01/injury-crash-us95-at-milepost-190.html

My IATs vary based on ambient and load, but empty they are generally +6, but as we have said the sender location has a lot to do with it. With an intercooler and the location of your MAP sensor I am not sure you would see it on the IAT, the +40 without a load shows how much the coolant effects the reading and probably why they moved it on 3rd gen trucks. I cannot think of anything that would change the temp, and I wouldn't be shocked if it was higher simply because there is more downpipe and the turbine is much higher and further forward on a 2nd gen vs 3rd gen. Like I mentioned before nearly all of the air entering the bay goes over a hot radiator, intercooler, condenser and then is heated by the block, charge air pipe, and exhaust.

I honestly just forgot you had gutted the underhood, which in retrospect makes perfect sense. So, for a truck like Michael's the results would be different and probably closer to what I have seen.

That's right, and that will also effect your moving temps. It's also why your data is not relevant for a truck with all their underhood stuff. You start driving that thing again?

Timing is not based on boost, it is based on fuel quantity.

The part arrived 2 days ago, looks better than an OEM unit. Thank you. Now to find time to hook it all up.

Yes it does require Windows. Do you have an old machine laying around? It will convert your non-PoD to PoD, there is not longer any supper for non-PoD.

The HY is open, but also runs a smaller housing so it's not apple to apples comparing open to closed.

That is with injectors thou. Sounds like the wastegate is opening prematurely, you should see 23 out of it.

Peak airflow on the HX35 occurs at 30 psi, it can run higher pressure at lower airflow. I would set the wastegate around 30.

My winter front goes on in October and comes off in April. Cold up there, we where only as low as 20 here.

I would guess you have upgraded springs then. If it's an HX35 I bet your above 30 psi of exhaust pressure around 25 psi of boost.

The Banjo's are a huge restriction. I changed all mine out to JIC or hi-flow and while my idle/cruise pressure didn't change (the in-tank pump has a pressure regulator) my pressure didn't drop nearly as much at WOT.

HX35? If so then your drive is going to be above 40. I would verify those springs if your hitting that much boost. A valve touching a piston is $$$

12V trucks came factory with lower pressure exhaust valve springs, IIRC around 30lbs. Looking at he mods in MnToms sig and his power I would have thought he had them. They are needed if drive exceeds 30psi.

I don't think it's needed, the pressure should equalize with the gate open at the turbine wheel. My Garrett also just releases pressure from the back 3.

I've never noticed a difference, thou I haven't ever payed attention to coast vs drive to brake time. I will now.

What do you mean? I can have the brake switch on and row gears without it coming on.

The delay is to allow the boost to drop and the turbo to slow down before plugging the exhaust off. It also allows for shifting with the switch on.

I fully think that 1/2" line is marketing, just like needing 150 GPH. Do you know how much hp 150 GPH can support? Even when you drop the flow for the pressure it's more fuel than needed. I do believe in a larger suction line than pressure line thou. For 95% of people a 95 GPH pump is plenty, personally I would run 1/2" suction and 3/8" pressure lines. The DDRP isn't worth it, look at the titanium or platinum.