AH64ID

Several things, torque management in lower gears and better trans design.

Yes the C&C trucks are different, that is for pickups only. C&C are 305/610 MY07-MY12, MY13 is 320/650 for manual and 325/750 for auto.

That thing is a beast!! Good looking camper for sure. I agree with some of the other folks in this thread, I would ditch that gooseneck adapter as fast as you can. They can do serious damage on small campers, let alone something with 17,500lbs behind it and a 12" arm that wasn't in the engineers design specs. I think the goose is a much better hookup, but not much can be done when the camper is built for a 5er hitch.

Nicely done. Don't forget the SO motor from 2003-2004250hp @ 2,900 460 ft/lbs @ 14002004 offered 2 HO's the 305 and 325 motors, the 325 was a Jan 04 release and didn't overlap with the 305 HO. Also there was a 5.9 offered in 2007, it had the same ratings as the 2006 5.9.

They are Rock Tamers. I bought them locally, but many online places have them. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006M9VIRM/?tag=googhydr-20&hvadid=27257146597&hvpos=1t1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8180248361551087167&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_5dsqi3xkl6_e

I got the ball in the mail today, and borrowed a 4' torque wrench and got it installed. I didn't quite get 1" of lift out of it because the old ball had a 3/8" lift (who knew), so I netted 5/8" lift. Looking at the tailgate spoiler I would say 5/8" is acceptable. I still think I will get some additional tension on the bars. I will hook it up tomorrow and see how it does.

Mine have looked the same. If you were to cut open your f/w sep you would see quite a bit more stuff, at least I did. When I drove my truck more I changed them at 30K miles, not I go around 24 months or until I get a pressure drop. I was starting to see a flow restriction at around 20K miles last time. This go around I have 19,700 on them and they are within .5psi of new, and have had 876 gallons burned (figure about 22-32K gallons pumped thru them). I am due for a 24 month change in November.

http://www.rambodybuilder.com/year.pdf I think it's in there.

My oil bypass mount is drilled/tapped into the frame, but my fuel filters are not. Dodge gives instructions on what is acceptable for drilling into the frame.

The Ram 1500 will have a diesel option for MY14 as well, its starting to come around.

I saw that, it's a step in the right direction. I personally would rather see a small I-6, but it's better than gas.

We only have a few trips for the year left, but I am going to mess with my hitch just a little. I have been wanting a little more tension on my equalizer bars, and the nose of the camper is a little low. The hitch head adjustments are 1.5", and that is too much. As it currently sits I am putting a little more air in the bags than I would like for a close to level stance. I have ordered a 1" rise 2 5/16" ball, this will do both of the things I am looking for. The nose will be brought up, and the air in the bags can be let out a little and give me the approx 3/4" higher camper nose that I am looking for. Moving the ball up, but not messing with the equalizer bars will also do a nice job increasing the tension and thus more weight off the rear and back to the front. The ball is in the mail, and I will report back in a few days.

It does make a huge difference. If I am camping for more than a day or two I will drop the rears down, but for short trips I just live with it. For towing I keep the fronts at 75 and rears at 80.

Okay good, I am not going crazy :-) I'm a big fan of tire pressure, I think you get better mileage with higher pressure. I like to run as much pressure as possible without effecting the contact patch of the tire. I recall reading a article by Cummins where under-inflated tires really decrease mileage, but overinflated helped increase mileage. It's two fold, rolling resistance and change in tire shape over uneven surfaces taking additional power. One of the reasons switching to 19.5" wheels/tires show an increase in mileage is the harder rubber rolls easier, even thou they are heavier.

Looks like a nice day for a drive. I could have swore there was quite a bit of 60mph speed limit on that route??? I don't drive it nearly as much as I used to, but I know some of it is 60. Why only 37 psi in the rear tires? Isn't that just enough air for a RAW of 2800 lbs?

Very nice! Your SGII must work different than mine, my CMG resets every time I shut the motor off. Not always true, it can be cooler from higher airflow and not less fuel. Generally speaking that's true, but not always. Your truck is light! Why are 2nd gen's so much lighter than 3rd gen's? I know they are, but that's a big difference. Even at my lightest (still have normal gear in the tool box) I am still 1K heavier up front. Front ..... 5020 Rear ...... 3360 GVW ...... 8380 How did you drop almost 400 lbs from normal curb, it doesn't seem like you have enough RAW or tongue weight for that big of a drop? Even with 1250lbs of tongue weight on a 18" hitch and no W/D I drop 700 lbs, and you don't have anywhere near that tongue weight.

Search the bigger diesel forums, but I think most are going with a replacement dash vs repairing it. It sounds intricate.

This is a common issue on the 06 dash for diesels, so I assume the Hemi's would also have the issue. Its a bad soldering connection.

I had hydraulic hoses made for my bypass at a local hydraulic shop.

What did you get? And why?

I will have to do a little checking, I was fairly certain I had seen a turbo or two that use the OEM elbow, and thus the EB would work. I do believe the Garrett is one option. I see it in aviation very easily, as well as in my truck. On a warm truck the load is noticeably higher in winter than summer, for the same weight and speed. EGT's aren't similar based on ambient temp, and even boost is effected, but load is pretty accurate.

But that doesn't answer my question. What is abusive about operating withing the proper parameters? There are turbo's that keep the stock exhaust elbow, and thus your exhaust brake. Unless your breaking 40 psi I do not believe studs are required. A Cam isn't needed either, especially on a 2nd gen. You can get a slightly larger turbo that will increase flow, decrease discharge temp, and free up the exhaust for better low throttle efficiency. You would need a 4" exhaust thou. I can tell you from my experience in the air that air temp plays a much larger role than most people give it. I personally believe that most of the winter fuel mileage drop is from air density. A 10°F change equals a 2% shift in aerodynamic drag, or a 1% fuel economy shift. Until your warmed up each 30° below operating temp constitutes a 1% fuel economy loss, for oil and coolant. One thing I found in recent research is that chip-sealed roads (common around here) provide the worst fuel economy of any improved surface, up to 45% more rolling resistance than polished concrete. Just looking at those numbers it's easy to see how a cold summer day can show you a decrease in mileage just based on temperature alone. None of that data talks about the increased drag from cold tires, transmission, transfer-case, and axles. In winter it takes my truck more than 30 miles to get the drive-train and engine oil to operating temp, even if the engine is hot.

That's not within parameters. Min coolant temp for full power operation is 160°F. One thing we haven't mentioned in the turbo/IAT efficiency issue is that the more temp the intercooler removes the more heat is put into the radiator. That means that even thou the IAT may be dropped down to a good level the radiator may be reviving air that is much hotter than needed, and now you are running into potential cooling issues. All of my mods are for efficacy and longevity, so I wouldn't call it abuse at all, it's called using it and building it with matched parts. If you cannot go WOT without running too hot then you have mismatched parts, and I do not think that is a recipe for longevity. I find it just a little bit rude at the assumptions you have made in this thread. I am not even sure how you can come to the conclusion that I disregard safety or possible engine issues. Simply because I understand operating ranges, min/max limits, and have a truck with matched parts to tow with does not mean that I disregard safety. When I am working my truck the hardest I have the family on board and all of my modifications, decisions, and driving technique are geared around them not sitting on the side of the road. I have never been on a road where there is a 5-10 mile stretch where you cannot pull over or slow to to let things cool if needed (shouldn't have to with matched parts). Just because you feel you need to impose a lower limit than Cummins does NOT mean that anyone else operating in the acceptable range is disregarding safety. Your right, truck use has NOTHING to do with it.... My truck hasn't had but one empty tank (no trailer/haul/etc) since March, so when you use your truck as a truck the average drops. I also have DD so the truck really only gets used for work/play which has a higher fuel consumption by default. My average has dropped several mpg's since I bought my commuter car, despite the fact that my truck is more efficient than it was when I was using it as a DD. Yes my best is 21.5, but that was also at 70+ mph (tank average speed was 70.7, with some town driving) with a bed full of hunting gear (~9,500lbs).. what did you report you get at 70? I guess the big difference is I prefer a matched motor, one that you can go WOT and not watch the pyro like a hawk except maybe on the hottest of days at elevation. It is very possible to have matched parts, lots of power, and be fuel efficient. Not true. More air resistance, colder more viscous fluids, etc Opposite of above answer. Simple, the ECM will adjust the timing based on IAT. The timing for higher IAT's is more optimal than the timing for lower IAT's. The difference is probably emissions based, as any decrease in potential mileage is generally attributed to emissions requirements. I'm not trying to throw stones (other than the safety comment), it's just simple observations on how things work. - - - Updated - - - Last few times I have been thru Riggins the fuel has been cheaper than down here...

And that's why you have a hard time in these conversations, you don't ever put your truck in a scenario where you would see a difference. Racing doesn't have everything to do with it, I see the highest IAT's at 20 mph on steep back roads (where I know you tow as well) and that's the kind of scenario where the turbo is going to be working harder than it has to. You run your mods for mileage and don't use the power, so it's really hard to discuss power application with you. Seems too hot for a 2nd gen, are you sure it was a stock motor? Maybe it came with some injectors? I'd hate to see how hot you could get it now. Even with the crazy hot emissions tuning the 04.5-07's only run about 1450° full tilt and a VP truck runs a lot more timing (thus cooler EGT's). Well within limits for the 190° thermostat. How is using your power, within all parameters (boost/egt/coolant/etc) in normal operation range considered abuse? This is all with the stock IAT sensor on the 24V, which even you have pointed out reads a high number based on location. It's not going to give you correct enough information for a comparison. In addition low power driving won't make much difference, as the underhood temp is low and airflow thru the engine bay is decent. Aside from fuel economy, there are very few gains noticed from any product in a cruise scenario. If you change air filters and get a noticeable change during cruise then either your old filter was plugged, or the new filter flows a lot more and I would question it's filtering abilities (as we discussed in a separate thread). Airflow is so low that you won't see a difference until you put a load on the motor.

I doubt you get that much cold air from the gap in the hood, in fact if the fan is running or there is decent airspeed I bet the air flow all but stops, or goes out. Like I have mentioned I don't think that the IAT on a 24V is representative of the actual temp, as you have stated it's greatly effected by the coolant passage adjacent to it. There is a reason it was moved for the CR. Flat cruise out IAT's should be ±5°, and they aren't. At least the IAT's show different, but I bet the air is the same.