AH64ID

Have you set the tank size and calibrated it?

Everything points to an indication issue, even the way you are holding the hoses. There is probably an electrical short somewhere, but your motor could be VERY hot when it indicates 200°, especially with winter fronts and towing. I may have missed it, but have you looked at the temp thru an OBDII scanner?After watching IAT's and coolant temps while towing with a winter front for testing I would suggest never running any winter front while towing, unless its -30° outside.

Are you towing with the winter fronts installed?

2 engines are nice, thou 407's aren't bad birds. I didn't think they had a battery.

Like a memory card in a camera I don't believe a batter is required to hold the NVM. Yes, note the calibration and just go directly to it and you should be good. Yes I am still flying 64's, its a fun job!

First time I have read this issue, but the radiator is not your problem. If that was the case any of these trucks that drove empty on a -20° would never get warm. The thermostat will prevent the motor from running cold if you are making enough energy to warm the block (which you are). You more than likely have an indication issue. Based on the changes senders and dash I would say you have bad wiring, and your engine is more than likely operating normally.

Mine holds the calibration in it's memory, it sounds like yours is not. Did you know that if you go to "fillup" right after "fillup" you can adjust the percentage of error and be recalibrate right then? Just make a note of what your calibration is.

Yes as CSM said. Those are the two labels on the pressure table. Along with what CSM said the higher pressure has a much shorter ignition delay, and looking at the OEM timing and rail pressure tables for a 04.5-07 it's no wonder they have timing rattle. OEM is lots of timing and combined with the pressure down low, and really the motor doesn't like it (but the EPA might). I have generally lowered my pressure for nearly all of the cruise table and have a smoother, quieter and more fuel efficient cruise region, thou I cannot comment on what it may have done for the NOx or other things. While increased atomization can provide for a better burn, the hp required to increase the pressure from 16K to 19K seems to be greater than the hp gain from better atomization. As load increases we obviously are injecting more fuel, as pressure increases the time required to inject "x" fuel decreases and that means a shorter injection delay, less timing required, and a better burn. Those things are great at higher loads, but at low loads that can lead to increases pressure BTDC, timing rattle, and lower efficiency. Thru tuning I have also noticed that decreased pressure really increases turbo spool from the longer burn. For me personally I am running 5° to 9° less timing than stock between 1000 and 1400 rpms at low load and my pressure is fairly close to stock until 1550 rpms. What that timing decrease has done is increase spool, increase response, and decrease noise (my non-mechanical mom commented on how quiet my truck is compared to my dad's 06 with a Smarty Jr). There are places on my pressure map where I am 5660 psi lower than stock, and places where I am 4784 psi over stock and that is all within the OEM 23,206 limits. My pressure map is a continual increase from idle to WOT. If rpms and/or load are increasing so is rail pressure. That's not the case on the stock map.

Things like the cam, head, intercooler, valve lash setting, exhaust manifold, turbo housing, wastegate setting, timing, fueling, etc all play a role. There is no way that I know of to calculate drive pressure, as it changes based on fueling, rpm, EGT's, etc. Every turbo is different, even the same compressor with a different turbine housing or application will be different. The best way to get your data is to drive and watch. Get a Ultra Gauge or Scan Gauge and watch all the parameters you are talking about. Get a turbo tachometer as well, otherwise you will never know the true airflow and compressor efficiency, and thus turbine efficiency. But like I said each turbo and application will be slightly different. If you just want to see how things are effected try the Garrett Boost adviser, but it won't show you drive pressure. As for the article there are a few reasons the compounds may have had less peak power. The load from the dyno may not have been enough once they were spooled to sustain full power (not uncommon), or the parasitic drag of the motor pushing exhaust thru 2 turbines was noted. I would be curious what the drive pressure was on the compounds vs big single (it may be in the article, but I didn't see it on a quick glance).

Rail pressure has it's own command table, you can set it independent of timing.

Most of us that are doing extensive testing and tuning would disagree with you. Increase pressure puts unneeded parasitic drag on the motor, and lowering pressure has been proven by multiple people to increase mileage. Once I got the timing corrected for the 3-5K lower psi at cruise my mileage went up. Increased pressure for mileage is a myth, that many have proven wrong.

There are way too many variables to answer that question with a direct answer. But I can tell you this. Drive pressure should be as close to a 1:1 ratio with boost as possible. When your drive pressure starts to exceed boost you start to hinder airflow, performance, increase parasitic drag, and decrease power. Stock 3rd gen turbo's will run as much as 2:1 to keep a quick spool and emissions requirement met. A good aftermarket ball bearing turbo can run as low as .7:1 when towing up a long grade. The following numbers are in terms on towing applications, not racing. Peak boost at 1800-2000 rpms should be very similar to peak boost at 3000 rpms. You may not see it on an empty WOT run because the rpms increase too quickly, but with a load you should have peak boost by 2000 rpms. Drive pressure for peak boost will probably be better at 2000 rpms than 3000, unless you are working with an open wastegate. Remember your airflow will be higher at 3000 rpms than 2000, but the flow and resistance will make for the same pressure. 1250° EGT's is considered max continuous for most motors and timing setups when towing. 1300° is safe for momentary temps, again for most motors and timing. If you are running too big of a turbo for your usage (say you peak at 40psi of boost at 3000, but can only make 25 at 2000) you will run excessive EGT's.Then you have to consider compressor efficiency for airflow at a pressure level, as it may work good WOT at 2000 rpms but be less than efficient at 2500-3000 rpms. This will effect IAT's, boost, exhaust flow, etc.

That is the minimum spec, not the normal pressure.

Your numbers seem fairly close to normal. At 2500 rpms I see 60-65 on a warm motor and 50-55 on a hot motor when towing heavy. Idle is 18-22 on warm oil.

The single biggest thing is to pay attention to where you are going. If you get lost and were paying attention you can back-track much easier. Prior planning when going somewhere new and/or confusing is always the best way to start. I carry similar stuff that all of you do, I also have a SPOT I carry when with the family or a long ways from the truck when hunting. I am not so worried about getting lost, as much as needing emergency services. And Michael.. a 9mm?? Come on, you know all that's going to do is ____ something off I keep 15 of these in my G20, and 10 in my G29. https://www.buffalobore.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=219

There are 2 sides to consider on the injectors and mileage. If you run the same weight and speed as pre-injector it stands to reason you will see a mileage increase; however, if you use the added power of the injectors your mileage will probably decrease as you are now injecting more fuel.

I was playing today on I-84 driving 73 mph (2200 rpms) and noticed my rail pressure was holding ±16,400 most of the time. So I cam back and looked at my tune, and some other data and I figure I was burning 28-30 mm3 on the main and 4.4-4.5mm3 on the pilot. All that comes back to ±21 mpg thanks to ISX's calculator. While I don't know how long it would hold over 20 mpg it sure was efficient today. I also played with the efficiency calculator, which is no where near scientific but... On several dyno's I had a 15% drivetrain loss on stock tuning. Last fall I dyno'd 369 rwhp (uncorrected) at 2900 rpms. That was a 8mm3 increase over stock (stock limits to 132, but the tables go to 140 and I was running the full 140mm3). So from timing and 8mm3 I picked up ~110 crank hp. Based on the calculator I went from 35.37% efficient to 44.6% efficient. Thank you EPA based timing. I know it's not very scientific, but it seems legit.

My turbo upgrade to the Garrett has been a great update as well. I didn't spend much time at the same power setting, but I am up about 75 rwhp at about 50° lower EGT's, lower IAT's, lower boost, etc. My cruise EGT's are a little higher, but the stock HE351 made 8-10 psi at 75 and the new turbo makes 4, so at low load the HE351 would move a little more air, but once any load is applied the Garrett outperforms the HE351.

So, how do you know how much airflow each psi of boost is? It's not universal and can be changed with turbo/intake/cam/exhaust changes. 30 psi of boost on my motor now is a lot more air than 30 psi was on my stock motor, and thus there is more to compress and higher pressure at TDC. So... why boost and not airflow?What is the effective CR of my motor, 17.2:1, and 60 lb/min of airflow?

We use airflow, not boost, to keep the motor cool. Boost is the measurable byproduct. But it is possible to increase boost and increase EGT's based on an inefficient compressor. According to the map you posted the HX35 is capable of 47 psi at sea level and ~30lb/min. It peaks at 29 psi and ~55-60 lb/min. Going above that means hot air. The other thing people don't look at is the turbine flow ratings. The compressor on the HE351 is good for about 4:1 and 61-63 lb/min but the turbine maxes out around 45-50 lb/min (of intake air, and guessing based on experience). Exceeding the turbine flow specs also increases turbo speed, even if the compressor flow is on the map.

Were the Revo programs out when you tried it?

Not entirely true. That's where a tuner has better control over a module and can negate the need for that. It's all in how you have it setup. Can you setup a Smarty so you have no traction on gravel, of course.. but you can also set it up to be better on light throttle than stock and then rip into it when you want to. Once 2nd gen's get UDC it will be even better. Yeah, it's the way the Dodge ECM talks and clears codes. It's different than other vehicles so they didn't write the code fully. Not sure what years this applies too.

They cycle for a reason... Not sure I trust that guy.

The ability to tune on the fly is one of those myth's that people worry about. In all honesty if the tune is good there isn't really a reason to change on the fly. Depending on the trucks setup people usually only need 1 or 2 tunes total for all their uses. I personally just have 1 tune, but I have written tunes for people that want 2 a towing tune and a max power tune and the hp difference is hundreds, so it makes sense. But there isn't really even a need to go on the fly for those two, you generally know when your going to be towing heavy. I have seen lots of people get hung up on tuning on the fly and once they don't have it they generally don't miss it. I can't speak for 2nd gens, but on a 3rd gen the Smarty tuning is so much better than the Edge that it really isn't a factor. The last thing about tuning on the fly is people tend to turn it higher than they have supporting mods for when they are trying to show off. With a tuner you set it at the highest level you want, or can support, and forget about it. If you feel like a romp you aren't tempted to add another 50hp, or more, that you cannot safely support. My SGII reads great, but it cannot clear codes on the Dodge. It does clear them on my Toyota or VW thou.

They use the standard 6.25' short box from a QCSB.