AH64ID

Glad you found the issue. It's hard to say if that stuff is OEM or not, it's a little different than my 05, but the 04.0's were different. I don't see the Banks needing to adjust any of the signals thru that harness. My 05.

I am not 100% convinced it's only retarded timing, but that could be the disconnect between the CR and 12V world. But, on a CR the timing is retarded from the factory, to a low of -9.5° ATDC (not looking at less than 1000 rpms) and a high of 9.2°. This thread appears to be talking WOT and rpms, so 3,000 rpms and WOT on a CR is 8.0° of timing on the main event. The main event is 2005us long, or at 3,000 rpms, 35.8° of injection. That means the injector is open until 27.8° ATDC and then 14.4° later a post injection event starts, which is 4.5° long, so now at the end of fuel injection we are at 46.7° ATDC. That's at 3000 rpms. At 2000 rpms the injection stops at 29.5° ATDC, there is no post. The 5.9 CR's also have cam timing that opens the exhaust valve earlier than previous models. But all that OEM stuff is assuming a good complete combustion, and maybe that's the difference on the 12V's with pop is that it's not complete combustion?I know that some of the 03's get popping from too much timing, more of a stutter/pop than a pop out the tailpipe. Pop is also possible on the CR's from too low of a rail pressure, and that may lead back to what you are talking about. Generally too low of a rail pressure just exhibits HOT EGT's, but rarely a pop. Consider that same scenario above at 3,000 rpms. If the pressure is 1/2 of what it should be, 11.6K psi, then the end of all injection is at 64.2° ATDC, that's a LONG ways down the powerstroke. Also consider the 6.7, in factory form it has 2 late injection events designed to put raw fuel out the exhaust port and they don't pop. Is that because they are injected on the exhaust stroke?ISX, I know you have plaid with cam timing at what crank position does the exhaust valve crack?

Which injector line blew? Was it #4? If so that's a common issue that has nothing to do with pressure spikes, but the #4 line clamp. Many people, including myself, carry a spare for #4. I don't disagree that a RP is a bad idea, but most likely none of the failures you indicated would be diagnosed or noticed ahead of time with a RP gauge, or a LP gauge for that matter. By the time the RP gauge tells you something is wrong with a injector, such as stuck open, it's too late. Even then at low load the RP gauge may not indicate anything. You said a RP gauge is more useful for diagnostics than a LP, and that's what I disagree with. Most issues cannot be seen by a RP gauge, and the most common issues that can be caught ahead of time would be caught on the LP side. Like I said, neither is critical for a CR at stock-mid power levels. But common issues, such as LP failing, gelling fuel, or plugged filters will be noticed on the LP gauge first giving you time to correct the issue before CP3 damage may occur. Common HPCR issues will not generally show on the RP gauge as the pressure rises/falls too much, the FCA can keep up with demands from minor high pressure leaks, and injector issues are not always RP related (especially if the RP is within stock pressures). Really very few failures could be detected with a RP gauge. I have had both for several years now, thou not nearly as many miles, and the only gauge that has told me anything was awry has been the LP gauge. The RP is more of a fun gauge, until you get into the big hp and fueling trucks, IMHO. Do you have dirty electrical connections often? I have only had two gauges give me faulty readings of the last 5 years, one pyro and my analog RP gauge. Neither was from poor connections, the pyro stepper motor was failing and the RP was plauged like every other RP gauge from pricol, inaccurate after a hour or more of driving. Again, talking a purely diagnostic side. I like having rail pressure, but I also like having fuel pressure and if I was only able to run one it would be fuel pressure.

This is still something that a RP gauge wouldn't help diagnose. The WTS and de-rate are accompanied by a engine code, P1222 or P1223. The ECM is calculating too much return flow, which can easily be set off with rail pressure withing normal specs. Those are the only 2 codes that will accompany the WTS, nothing else will. There are plenty of other codes for FCA/CP3/injector issues. I am not saying a RP gauge is a bad idea, I have one, just saying that on truck with a stock CP3/Injectors and the power the OP is asking about there isn't much need for one. A RP is really needed when you either tuning your own rail pressure map, pushing the limits of the CP3, or running aftermarket and HIGH flow CP3 (s). If you are comparing a RP to LP for diagnostic reasons I am just not sure what a RP gauge will let you diagnose? If the pressure is low, what is causing it? Is it low supply pressure, or a supply restriction? If the pressure is too high how do you know? If it's slow to react what is causing it? How do you know it's slow to react? The ECM monitors the rail/FCA, but it doesn't monitor low pressure fuel. What's normal at one load/rpm/elevation is different at another elevation. My point is that unless you can compare commanded/actual fuel pressure, and then look at things like commanded/actual FCA position there is very little RP actually tells you for trouble shooting, unless it's really high or really low.. and then why? The gauge doesn't tell you why. For 99% of the time I think a low pressure fuel gauge tells you more useful information, you know what it is supposed to be, and there are far more supply related issues than high pressure issues. I know that when I first got a RP gauge several years ago I thought I had issues based on how the pressure would climb/fall. Without the availability to look at stock pressure maps there was no way to know. It drove me nuts that as I hit a hill at 70 mph the pressure would drop, that had to be an issue, right? Well no codes, and nothing to know if it was normal or not. Now that we can at least see the maps for OEM pressure there is a start, but on the 03-04 we only know what the HO sea level map looks like, nothing for increased altitude or SO/Cali. This is the 04.5-07 rail pressure map. This is the 03-04 HO rail pressure map. As you can see it's not smooth or predictable, so really without carrying that with you and a tool to tell you engine load the RP gauge doesn't do much for diagnosing pressure issues, unless its really far out and then you should get a CEL. I built this map for truck with UDC, and the RP gauge still doesn't tell me if there is an issue and this is an easier to read/predictable map.

Definitely an older thread, but here is what Dodge/Ram has to say about welding. http://www.rambodybuilder.com/2007/docs/dr/rcn.pdf

Not necessarily. Unless you know what the commanded rail pressure is you won't know if it's off. It varies so much based on load/rpm that you can get general idea's but nothing concrete. RP gauges, aside from the UG, are very expensive for their usefulness when running stock pressure. Also if RP is off, low or high, you should get an OBDII code. Low pressure fuel pressure is not as critical as a 2nd gen, but is nice to know the quality of the filters, etc. It also helps diagnose starting issues, but really isn't super necessary. The UG I referred to is the Ultra Gauge, and is by far the cheapest RP gauge out there, but I don't believe the rail pressure reading works on trucks before 2005.

I'm a little late getting into this thread, but some good info is being put out. The Smarty Jr is really the best option out there. I ran one for nearly 5 years before upgrading so a Smarty S06 last month. I put about 70K miles on my Jr and it's a great programmer. Since you have a NV5600 your weakest link with added power will be your fuel pump, if it's the OE engine mounted pump. If you have the in-tank retro then the turbo/fuel pump are about matched for peak potential. For gauges I recommend the ISSPRO EV2's. They are electrical, but can have warning lights set so you get the added warning of digital gauges with analog readings. I upgraded to EV2's this spring and they have been great, easy to read, and I like the warning light. Diesel Auto Power, link in my sig, had the best price of anyone on the EV2's by far. Smarty's are all the same price unless you buy used. The JWA's seem to have mixed results on reliability, and I would recommend a programmer over a module on your truck.

Dmax's have very small OEM tailpipes in that era. They appear the same as an 8.1 gasser. I don't hear any dmax sound either, but the GM never lets off the brakes so I don't think he ever revved it up. It looks like he was waiting for the Cummins to break traction and then drag him. I don't recall where GM has the duramax label on that year group.

http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2012/10/19/donna-radio-caller-deer-crossing-sign-complaint_n_1987405.html

All that proves is who has the most traction...Unless the motor is a transplant its a Dmax.

39 psi !! Yeah, that sounds like turbo bark.

The family and I went for a drive today and I was reminded how long it takes the entire truck to warm up. We drove about 100 miles and I bet it took 35 or so before everything was hot. During the first 20 miles I was cruising level at about 4 psi and 750* at 68 on level groung at 35-37* with less than 3 mph of wind. On the return on the same route with the same conditions I was at 2 psi and 600-650 with a few % less load too. The only difference was the temp of then trans and diff fluids, it just takes a long time to warm all that stuff up. My point is if your doing test runs in winter you need to add extra miles for temps to stabilize so you can see how the truck reacts to the changes. Many people blame the fuel for poor mileage in the winter, but I really think its only a small percentage with the cold fluids being a big one, followed shortly by cold/dense air.

It could be turbo bark. I see a bit of fuel but no turbo in your sig.

5w-40 is fine, it will most likely be a CJ oil instead of a CI like the Amsoil. CJ doesn't last as long, but that may not effect you if your not doing extended drain intervals. 5w-40 is an OEM recommended oil in winter, which is why it's available.

Yeah, I was only 1/4 of the way thru my coffee when I posted that. I am still not sure it's any worse than the added load on the crank/motor of spinning a cold transmission. I still think the best thing is only push the clutch in when you are turning the key, as soon as you have oil pressure release the clutch.

Interesting thread. I noticed you were running a 100um pre-filter. Is there a reason why? The 1st filter on the AD, f/w sep, is pre-pump so you shouldn't need to pre-filter for a filter :-)

Your going to have to explain that one a little more. When you press on the clutch the pressure plate releases pressure, and that force is exerted on the throw-out bearing, to the fork, and then into the transmission case. When you press the clutch no additional force is exerted on the crankshaft, at least as far as I can tell. But if you do delete the clutch safety switch and start with the trans in N you now have a greater load on the crank before oil pressure builds and that could do more long term wear, REALLY long term. I watch engine load with my UG, and the load a cold trans puts on the motor is a lot more than one would think. Are you going off of the dash gauge? Maybe, IIRC there are 3 suppliers of Mopar oil filters. Fleetguard is one, and I am not positive but I want to say Wix/Fram are the other 2. Purolaotor also comes to mind. It's possible you are just watching it more now as you changed things up. The 0w will drain back a little easier the longer the motor sits, but it will also flow faster thru the motor on startup. I run a 15w-40 year round, and it takes about 2-3 seconds for oil pressure to build on a normal start, but a cold start after a few days sitting can take 5 seconds or so. I run a Donaldson ELF7349 which has high flowing synthetic media in it. I have an electrical fuel pressure gauge on the drivers side of the block, so my reading is slower than someone watching pressure from the oil filter housing. The other thing is some years, starting in '00 with a flash, ignore the pressure from the oil psi sender. The gauge on the dash is 100% fake and an algorithm. The 3rd gen and newer trucks don't even have an oil psi sender, just a switch. My dash gauge goes to 40 psi as soon as I release the key, regardless of actual pressure. The ECM has to see no pressure for 30 seconds before it will tell the driver there isn't any pressure. This is why I asked Michael about how he watches oil pressure, if it's off his dash his 1-2 seconds may be fake.

We need more info, as a bone stock 6.7 will make oil. The oil change reminder is based on fuel in the oil, 5% to be exact. 5% of 12qts is .6 qts, which is about 35% of the "safe" crosshatch area. So is it making a little or a lot? How often is he changing his oil? Stock or deleted?

This mentions VP tuning. http://www.madselectronics.com/downloadfiles/SmartyUDCSoftware.pdf

So when you changed from 5x5 to 5x3 the SGII could no longer be calibrated. EFI won't ever happen, but Smarty UDC should.

There are some trucks with 245's standard, even 3rd gens. (no clue on 4th) They are not common thou, and generally the ST package, I have never seen an SLT or higher with 245's. 235's, Michael's summer tires, have only ever been standard on DRW's, at least that I have seen.

The Edge modifies the ECM signal to the VP correct? Since the SGII reads from the OBDII port how does changing tunes on the Comp effect the SG accuracy?Why would you have more torque with less fuel/timing?

Yes PoD and UDC are compatible, and the 85/70 numbers I use are with UDC.

Are the standard programmers worse than the plug and play modules?

Those pressures are for the 04.5-07 HPCR, and calibrated based on the stock nozzle. P7100 stuff is different. Stock Duration for the Main Injection Pulse.. This is what the ECM has to determine the actual pulse width, for pressures and volumes that aren't on the map they ECM calculates it out. The pressure is in MPA.