AH64ID

This is from the owners manual, you should be covered if you bought your truck after March 16th 2005.

The engine warranty is 100K miles, you may look into it. The are part of the injector, but are serviced as a unit.

It does certainly sounds like injector(s) issues. They are not cheap, a full set runs about 3K plus install.It's probably sticking solenoids, and the additional pressure above 1500rpms is making them work better. This is also why it probably doesn't happen all the time. You run the change of melting a cylinder down if you drive it too much. If you are not mechanical I would not mess with it. Depending on when you bought your truck you may still have engine warranty, if they don't know about the fuel filter issue.

Seafoam contains alcohol based solvents, which will emulsify water to the point in which it cannot be filtered out. Water is death to a CR system.

It could also be the track bar/bushings.

How many miles on the truck? The lack of fuel filter changes has probably cost you a set of 6 injectors. The OEM filter in 05 was 10um, and prone to injector failures. It was changed to 7um, and Bosch (manufacturer of the fuel injection system wants 5um). I agree with dorkweek, seafoam in a diesel is a major no-no! Check your oil level to make sure it's not rising, as a failed or failing injector can cost you an entire rebuild by burning down a cylinder, or eating the bearings with fuel in the oil. Truth be told you best be is probably going to be to have all 6 injectors pulled and sent off for testing at a shop like DDP in Monroe, Wa. --- Update to the previous post... I don't see a lift pump causing those issues. The MY05 LP was in the tank, and designed to be sucked thru in a failure, which would not effect idle or mid range operation, just peak performance would be down.

I have called and talked to AAM and they spec 75w-90 for all loads/temps. They said if you live well above GCWR and tow thru death valley most the time then 75w-140 would be better, otherwise stick to 75w-90. Even the max tow (GCWR of 30K) uses 75w-90, but with a finned cover.

That's the max pressure a Bosch white paper had, not sure what it does under normal driving or WOT. The VP44 is capable of approx 17,400 psi. CP3 in 03-07 is programmed to 23,106.

The 68RFE uses a .82 and a .63, great for towing and empty cruising.

I would guess it's a 6" front and 3" rear by the stance.

If you delve into the common rail world you will find some more conversations on the topic. Same theory applies, fuel injected at 18K psi will ignite sooner than fuel injected at 10K psi. The P7100 is capable of 18,855 psi. Remember we are talking about the initial ignition point, not total fuel pumped. On a mechanical pump the pressure probably has a very little effect on total fuel, but it will still have some effect as you will spend a greater time above pop pressure.

I'd say just a touch.. 6830 is your tire limit, you were probably in the 9,000lb rear axle range.

Is it working?

As you increase rpms the pressure out of the P7100 increases, as the pressure increases you "advance" timing by two ways. One is the pressure hit's the pop pressure sooner and thus injects sooner, and the higher pressure atomizes better and flows faster (so more, easier to combust, fuel is injected sooner than at low rpms) and the fuel ignites faster. Both of those have an advancing effect on the actual ignition timing, even if the P7100 stayed completely static.

I just thought of something, do you have a boost fooler?

I have a tall camper for the same reason! My ball is at 28", and the clearance is great. I am going to buy an accum, I have enough room for the 4 gallon Well-X-Trol. The SPP6E is a much better hard start cap than a/c's come with (if they even come with one) and will reduce the start time on the compressor, and decrease the start load on the gen's end, which leads to a longer gen and compressor life.

What do you run for tires?

How is the truck lifted? (i.e, new springs or blocks/spacers).Pics of the lift front/rear may help.

It could also because with the added pressure of WOT and rpms you get more timing advance thru quicker ignition from the improved atomization.

I would have to look at a DRW MC to see the pack to confirm. I read the first post in that link and wasn't very impressed with the posters depth of knowledge, so some confirmations would be needed. Dodge has always given the MC DRW a lower GVWR than the CC or QC (3rd gen), despite the same axle/spring ratings as well as same frame (3rd gen). There has to be a reason for it, and all I can figure is that it deals with the long body and short bed, thou they do rate the rear axle at the same 9350#'s that all DRW's have. My buddy as a 2012 3599 SRW MC and is has the 3500 springs, just not the overloads. Can you snag a pic of the springs on the MC DRW? Bottom line is that most people feel the GVWR is wrong on the MC; however a typo would only last a year and not the 7 model years that it has. There has to be a reason, but your guess is as good as mine. My 05 QC seats are quite short, front to rear, and I have had several different infant car seats in the middle (only place they fit rear facing in a 3rd gen). Personally I would get the truck that suits your needs best and find a different car seat as you will use the car seat for 12-24 months, and hopefully the truck for a lot longer. Car seats are also far cheaper to make work than a truck. --- Update to the previous post... Either way, if you get an automatic be sure to get 4.10 gears, with the double OD's of the 68RFE you will not burn any more fuel empty than the higher gears, and it will tow a LOT better.

Welcome, it's a great site with great members!

Looking for some more idea's for RV mods, from simple to expansive. What I have done..Home digital thermostat non-skid in all compartments, planning on doingWater tank accumulator, 1" high pressure propane connections under frame rail, A/C hard start capacitor SPP6E, dual 12v's, (6's don't fit :banghead:)

The BD tow twins kit is 2 S300's, the bigger of the 2 is just a little smaller than the SB66. The SB series is a WOT high rpm turbo, not a towing/DD turbo by most standards. People do it, but they have to completely revamp their driving style. A 63/68/12 with your injectors would probably be a good journal bearing turbo.

The XZT and Edge are not programmers, they are modules. But the Edge could be dynamic, the XZT would be less dynamic as all it does is effect the MAP signal, whereas the Edge plugs into the injectors. Here is a screen shot of some Smarty timing on a CR, I think a 03-04, as you can see it's quite dynamic. Blue is stock, pink is modified. It's a 3D map, so hard to get a single shot that shows it all, but this is pretty good I think.

I was just checking them out and they all seem fine with 74K on the clock. I like the G05, seems to work well and lasts a long time.