AH64ID

The Wife and I ended up getting a new TT this past week. Our 18CK (22') was getting a little too small on rainy days, and cold mornings with 3 rug rats. We got a Outdoors RV Creekside 26BKS (29') with a 12' slide and bunk beds. Should be a great trailer for the family. We spend 95% of the day outside when camping, but for that other 5% the room will be very handy. The main reason we decided to upgrade is that our 2007 Pioneer is still worth about 90% of what we paid for it in 2007 (got a screaming deal) and we got the 26BKS about 35% off MSRP. It has some great features, 12' Slide, 4 Seasons, HD axles, lots of ground clearance, plenty of storage for my 4 girls, etc Is it camping season yet? http://www.outdoorsrvmfg.com/creekside/model.php?id=40 http://www.outdoorsrvmfg.com/images/rsync/2011/brochures/CreekSide-Web.pdf http://www.outdoorsrvmfg.com/images/rsync/2011/brochures/WelcomeFeaturesCS.pdf http://www.outdoorsrvmfg.com/images/rsync/2011/brochures/OutdoorToughFeaturesCS.pdf http://www.outdoorsrvmfg.com/images/rsync/2011/brochures/CreekSideFlyer.pdf

Any update?

I would clean the terminals and try a new bulb.

Good information. I have only heard one 24V P-Pump, think he had about 14-15°, but I thought it sounded like a 24V, but I have only heard 1, and don't spend a ton of time around 12Vs or 24Vs.

The steering wheel difference was in shape and cruise control buttons. With this wheel the manual fast idle will not work. (and yes I know it's a hemi, that's not the point )

I think you misread my post, as I said the same thing you are saying. The automatic fast idle (high idle on a diesel is rated rpm, no load) is enabled on every 3rd gen, and cannot be disabled. It's not an option. The manual fast idle is an option to be enabled on 04+ trucks, with the rare 03. It has to be enabled by the DRBIII/Star Scan or tuner. Automatic/Manual has nothing to do with transmission, but how the rpms increase. Automatic: ~32° rpms will increase to 1,000 rpms 2 minutes after startup; ~15° and below the rpms will go to 1,000 as soon as you start. Manual: Turn the cruise control on, press set. Rpms go to 1,100. Accel/Decel can be used to adjust the rpms in 100 rpm increments between 1,100 and 1,500.

The automatic fast idle is enabled on all 03+ CTD's (and maybe 2nd gens??). The manual fast idle needed to be enabled, which Smarty has done for you. Since you have a manual all you need to do is ground the ECM #22 pin and you can control your rpms with the cruise control.

There are very few late 03's that it works on, but the vast majority of 04's do not have the option. Like it has been mentioned it has to do with steering wheel design.

I was looking for what trip's the relay to turn the pump on, the VP's don't like pressure at startup (which leads to long cranking).. or so I am told, and Michael will correct me if I am wrong.

There is more to warm air for mileage than just IAT's.The warm air is less dense, so it takes less hp to move thru it. Same thing with warm tires, warm gear lubes, etc. Warmer IAT's do seem to help, but without a resistor setup like Michael was using on a rheostat it's really hard to quantify what gains are from IAT's and what gains are from the warm air's effect on the truck.

My SG is fairly close on my Jetta, but each little bit of error is a big percentage since it's only a 14 gallon tank. It was much more accurate and easier to calibrate on the 21 gal tank I had on my Tacoma. My 05 doesn't report fuel usage consistently or accurately, so it's impossible to calibrate.

Is the AD wired thru a relay and the OEM pump wiring, or off of a 12V ignition source?

I'll weight it before I install it.

Yeah 24V's are noisy, but I think they are just as noisy with a P-pump conversion. www.madselectronics.com Yeah with the retarded main and the pilot it makes for a very quiet motor, and super easy starting.

Those NOX output numbers are probably at rated rpm, not at idle. The injector/piston relationship could also factor into the sound at idle on the 24V.Once UDC is released for the VP trucks we can get a good look at it's timing. On the CR trucks they idle right around -4° on the main event.

If you need the defrost it's one thing, but an ice scraper and driving would be better, IMHO.

Did you just check it once? When my truck had 10K miles on it the OH was within 5%, then as mileage grew so did the error. My error normally ranges from 8% to 25% off, and it's not the smarty that does it because I get the same results on stock tunes. I have yet to see anyone's overhead that is consistent or accurate. Most check it when fairly new and never check it again, but Dodge makes the mileage increase with miles because the motor "should" break in. I'm not saying your wrong, just stating that if it's accurate you have a very very rare truck. Generally when people check it again with some miles on the truck they learn how inaccurate it is. I reset every fillup and track it. In 2007 my avg error was 3.64%, 2008 it was 10.95%, 2009 was 17.46%, 2010 was 17.5%, 2011 was 18.0%, and so far 2012 is 14.1%. As you can see the average has peaked at about 17-18% (less than 1K miles driven in 2012 and my last error was 8% so that really dropped the average of the 4 fillups). I just do the simple math of 20% error and it's generally pretty close, but like I said 8-25% swings do occur. Here is a sampling of the variance of the error.

I realize yours is 2wd, but is that hand calculated or off the overhead?

Great. An Ultra Gauge is a great way to go for a rail pressure gauge, as long as your not running a pressure fooler.

Agreed, I have no interest in replacing a sealed bearing with another sealed bearing.

You get it up and running?

In place of that I would install a Baldwin FB1311 filter head and a Fleetguard FS19596 on there. The OEM filter is rated for so little compare to what the 150 can push you can outflow it and push contaminates/water thru it. Or this http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/product.aspx?pf_id=MK79852-BLKH

You should probably look into additional filtration, even as simple as a good quality f/w sep before the pump.

In your 98 I would run a Fleetguard FS19598 or Baldwin PF7751, whichever is cheapest. I believe its the same filter in a different box. --- Update to the previous post... What are you running for a lift pump? The 98-99 filters are only rated at 24 GPH.

Here are some pics of a HE351 wheel I have. You can see the same grind spot as yours, and 3 places they removed materiel on the back edge.