AH64ID

That's fine.. I don't plan on either :-) Just some camping!:lol:

I didn't, the manifold/turbo are very close to the gasket, less than a .1" difference. The blankets came from Levi at Turbo Performance Products and are top quality! I am going to run for a week or so without them to help the manifold paint cure, and to let the turbo burn off any residue, but both will go on before the 1st tow. I test fit the manifold blanket today and it looked and fit great! http://crdpower.com/ --- Update to the previous post... A side by side comparison of the two manifolds. You can see how the ATS has a much smoother flow for #4 than stock and has larger ports. --- Update to the previous post... I cleaned the side of the block up with a wire wheel and bolted the ATS up. --- Update to the previous post... The turbo with the coolant line hooked up and ready to install. The instructions state than the WG is calibrated for stock levels and you gain approx 1.5 psi per ½ turn of the WG rod, so I shortened it 1 turn to start. Installed --- Update to the previous post... This is where the coolant supply comes from. It uses the heater core return. It then dumps into the water pump. The tubing over the filter housing is removed. Out with the old, and in with the new. It’s actually a very easy task, just takes time. --- Update to the previous post... Stock Stock and Studs Complete You can see here how much more purchase the studs get in the block. The OEM bolts had about 9 rotations of engagement and the studs have about 14.

Spent most the day in the garage working on the truck. The manifold/turbo are installed. All went pretty smooth, but had to get 1 different bolt for the turbo mounting flange. The 2 they supplied were good for 1 side, but the other side they were too long. Got the turbo oiled, CAC hooked back up and just need to tighten the exhaust clamps. I am thinking of wrapping the exhaust while its mostly not apart... The studs are also installed. I did one at a time, then torqued them at 80, 95, then 110. After they were all done I torqued them in 2 phases to 125. Now I am letting it warm up with the block heater until I go to bed, then cool overnight and on last tq check. The only issue was the old turbo had a little oil in the outlet pipe. It wasn't enought to make it to the intercooler. I haven't been using oil, so either its very minor or hasn't been doing it long. It's also possible that it pushes a little past the seals when the exhaust brake in on at idle??? The old turbo is very tight thou, so maybe just a seal kit before I sell it. I will dig into it deeper. But wow the exhaust wheel is tiny on that thing!I also learned something about the OEM manifold. I had always understood it to be a 4/2 design, but #4 actually dumps into the rear bank. But the way it does it HORRIBLE for flow! The ATS does have larger ports as well, .14 larger diameter at each cylinder, and at the flange they are .1x.15 larger and are oval vs "D" shaped. All in all the manifold looks like it will flow more air and create less backpressure. Pics to follow.. off to spend time with the fam.

I notice the same thing, my thought was it goes to the top every time there is a new vote?

Many folks are removing their capped rails as the injectors react twice as fast as the CP3 and you can get pressure spikes that double the rail psi. I find it really interesting that 5.9's are using less capped rails, and the 6.7 crowd is starting to use them... History always repeats itself.

Some turbo's are divided and some aren't. It really depends on the application. A divided housing is supposed to help spool a little better as the pulses are maintained. Also of note the HY 9cm is supposed to flow about as much as the HX12cm due to being div/undiv. I have also been searching for pics of the S300's that use two WG pucks on a divided housing, so they pull from both halves but don't disrupt flow, but can't find any.

I agree.. I think it will raise EGTs across the board due to greater turbulence. The turbo I just bought is wastegated only on once half of the divider as well, and it's not a cheap turbo. I figure if it didn't work they wouldn't do it that way. I just don't see how it really matters if it pulls from one side or the other. The point in a WG is to control boost and limit turbo speed. All it does is simply pull air away from the blades. Only taking pressure from one half doesn't change that. Less exhaust gets to the turbine wheel, thus no increased boost. You should also get lower pressure on the 1-3 bank, but i'll verify that later this month when I get my turbo installed.

Is there a way to hook up a scan tool and verify the commanded vs measured rail pressure?

Are there any codes?

I would think that if it was that low it would be running horrible. What gauge are you using, some don't read too well!Is your CEL operational?

On chevy.com mouse over the the "trucks" at the top and click silverado. Then click learn more on 2500HD or 3500HD.Click "Performance".. almost all the way down on the right. Not big bold letters but its there 397/765.

You must be looking at different websites than I am, 3 clicks of the mouse and I found the hp/tq of the dmax, Ram has the tq on the homepage, and 2 clicks to see hp and tq :-)It would be nice if they talked about them more thou!

The overall tuning is identical (except the 10 ft/lbs lower rating in 04.5), the hardware is identical (minus APPS/lift pump), but the wiring and ECM are completely different. The ECM language is the biggest difference, so it will be a completely different tune. 06-07 is the first in production, then 6.7, then 03-05.

DDRP should be a good pump for you if you don't have too many fueling mods. Like mike said its only a little more fuel than stock, but enough to keep the pressure in the green. The drop is from demand, but I think normal and acceptable.

I was going to post the same thing! Richard's stuff is top notch and priced very well. I understand he is working a similar kit for the 3rd gens! I also just saw Geno's now offers a similar kit, but I use the GDP kit, it has a heater and I think a better filter selection. http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=FFK9799

Not too surprising on the EGT's, the HX40 will be a lot slower to spool, so the EGT's will rise quicker and will take longer for the turbo to get back ahead of them. I would say that in day to day driving if they stay the same your good, where when towing and the turbo is always loaded they will probably drop a little. Nope the toy's aren't on yet. I just got home Thursday night so this weekend is with the family, next weekend I have a 3 day date with the truck and some parts!

That will be an interesting test for sure, especially considering there won't be any pressure. I think your gonna spill some diesel :-)EFILive is very near to being released for the 06-07 Dodge's.

Hmm, just fired the truck yesterday for the first time in 60 days.. maybe I'll go inspect a little closer tomorrow.

Glad it's on.How long have you been in PHX? I just left Tucson (Marana), where I spent the last 8 weeks.

Here they are! I am hoping to get most of these installed next weekend. The hitch is missing the hardware, but that should ship ASAP. Studs ATS 2-piece manifold. Just looking at this one I can tell the flow will be much better, as will the sounds. Looks to be 95% of the benefits of a 2nd gen manifold, with none of the custom work! With the Turbo Performance blanket. The Turbo! Garrett Powermax Stage 2, GT3782R. It’s a 62/64 with a .89 a/r divided housing. And the hitch. This thing is beefy!

Oh.. and I got this little guy too. http://reeseproducts.com/content/products.aspx?lvl=3&parentid=1000&catID=1065∂=45299

I rotated my AT's every 5K and wear was even. On my KM2's I am doing it every 3K.

I don't buy that one bit. OEM batts have been known to last 6-8 years, much longer than most batts in OEM applications, so if grids were hard on batts that wouldn't happen.

Paint one on the silencer ring (if it has one) so its in disguise.

What are the ambient/engine temps? Also what are the specs on the truck?