AH64ID

Do the bars state their rating? Just making sure they are big enough for the massive tongue weight of that baby, there appears to be 4 different ratings.

Which model?

In fact, in all the rigs I have owned the Dodge is the only one with an APPS, the rest have TPS.

Yeah thats what I have noticed too.. kinda silly if you ask me.

With a standard receiver the tail gate hits the tongue jack, even when straight, put any angle on the truck and you can't hardly drop the gate at all. With the extended receiver I can open the tailgate regardless of the angle between the truck and trailer, makes it much easer for getting stuff in/out of the bed with the trailer attached. Also you can back up at tighter angles and not kiss the trailer with the bed-side. I know it decreases my mileage, but its a worthy cost of fuel. --- Update to the previous post... Yeah that's probably true. I bet the tanks are in the front too. If your going somewhere that has water I would fill there. What do you have for a w/d setup?

That's how I feel! When I was considering keeping my HE351 and making the WG functional I was shopping for a different WG actuator. I have heard things about the Banks one, so I called them to talk about it. When I told them it was for an 05 he almost hung-up, as it wont work.. Wanted to slap the guy thru the phone... Anyways, I explained why it would work and asked what boost level the WG would open at. He told me stock, okay. I asked for the part number for a 03-04, he told me they were all the same part number for Dodge. I asked how they can all be the same part number and open at stock boost when the stock boost has varied over the years. He said he didn't know, but they would only build stock boost... Really?? Talk about an idiot!

04.5 was the last year of the traditional APPS. The 05+ trucks integrated the APPS into the pedal, its still called an APPS.. but not what people think of when you hear APPS. Technically there isn't a TPS, just an APPS. TPS's were on 12V trucks.

Drive pressure is the pressure in the exhaust manifold, like boost is for the intake manifold. Drive pressure is what spins the turbine. In an ideal world the boost and DP are 1:1 In stock trim my truck would max out at about 1.25:1 (DP:Boost), with the mods I have now I can get it over 1.75:1; mainly becuae I haven't taken the time to re-work the WG, so it doesn't open at all. If the WG worked I could keep it at 1.25:1 or under, which is fine.

I really like my Prodigy. I think it's the cat's meow for running with an exhaust brake. If I am wanting to slow down I turn the EB on, and just touch the brake pedal enought to turn on the trailer brakes. The prodigy senses the deceleration from the EB and brakes the trailer accordingly, so I get mehcanical braking on the trailer, exhaust braking on the truck and nothing on the truck brakes.. works great for slowly slowing, then if I need more I just push the brakes a little harder. I hear the MaxBrakes and BrakeSmart's are amazing units, but they won't do the proportional braking with the exhaust brake like I mentioned, so I haven't really considered one.. But if I didn't have an exhaust brake (not sure why I wouldn't) I would probably run one.

As others have said the wind resistance is the killer on TT's. I know that my 5K lb TT is as hard or harder to tow than a 15K dump trailer on flat ground. Another example is I have a friend who had an 02 QC SB auto on 35's. He used to tow a 30' 5er with an enclosed motorcycle trailer behind it. He got the same mileage towing that as he did with is 19' TT and no 2nd trailer. As for the high tounge weight, that's the design of all toy haulers. They are built with high pin/tounge weight so that when you load them full of toys they balance out. So an empty toy hauler isn't balanced very well. Several years ago I had a toyota tacoma and a very small 1,200 lb pop-up trailer. For the first few months towing it I had a standard length hitch. I then upgraded to an extended length (6" longer) hitch so I could drop the tailgate. That extra 6" made a HUGE difference in the fuel economy. It's been years so I don't recall what the specific number was, but it was remarkable. I currently use a long receiver as well (18" pin to ball) as I like to be able to drop the tailgate at any angle, and I am sure thats costs me over a mile per gallon.

They are the micron ratings and efficancy at that rating. So the OEM filter removes 95% of all particles 30um and largerThe 57620XE removes 95% of all particles 25um and larger, and 50% of all particles 14um and larger. The Amsoil removes 100% of all particles 20um and lager, 98.7% of all particles 15um and larger, and 59.97% of all particles 7um and larger.

Pretty good reports and luck! Hope I can be so lucky. I know BJ's are around the corner, and probably followed by a clutch.. but all in all I am pretty darn pleased for the 64K miles I have put on the truck.. Really all I have had done warranty wise was a CP3 at 28K for a small seep, and an intercooler (had the OEM Plastic POS) at 48K.

The in-tank is a good unit, but still falls short of the optimal psi for the VP44, on the HPCR trucks is great. Really every VP truck should have a fuel psi gauge, so I would start with that and go from there.

Why are you putting a "T" in the oil feed line? There are 2 empty 1/8" NPT ports in the filter head.

The cam has made the motor smoother and more responcive in the bottom end. It also runs about 100* cooler while towing in the upper rpm/boost range. I think it bumped my economy a little but really hard to tell as I changed tire size/pattern at the same time, and no longer DD the truck. The turbo definatly spools quicker, and the oil looks cleaner. It's still black as the night, but not as thick looking. I will be doing a UOA in about a month so that will be a good indication what it did for soot. I'm not sure I have an "IN" at the reserve, just been saving like mad for a while! I have towed with the SJR on SW2 and really like that power, it's equivelant to your SW3. I should be about the same on SW1 with the 50's, but with more bottom end. SW2 on the SJR and the 50's would be a little stronger than SW5 on the Sr, and I am not sure I want/need that when towing, but we will have to see. I have yet to break 20 mpg, but the way I use the truck these days I am not surprised, thou now with the cam, and the 50's and turbo coming I think it will be pretty easy.. if I ever do a trip where I am mostly empty and at 65.

What kind of fittings can't you find? --- Update to the previous post... Then why didn't you vote?

What oil filter do you use? Do you have a bypass? If you use more than one kind, list your preffered filter. Trying to see what's the most common. If you use a Stratpore LF3894 just select the LF16035. If you use a Hastings LF608 just select Baldwin BT7349. Here is the data I have on the filters listed. Donaldson P558615 40um @ 98.7%, 20 @ 50% Cellulose Fleetguard LF3972 30um @ 95% (35 @ 98.7% last info) Cellulose Wix 57620 30um @ 95%, 20um @ 50% Cellulose Wix 57620XE 25um @ 95%, 14um @ 50% Glass Enhanced Cellulose Baldwin BT7349 30um @ 98.7%, 12um @ 50% Synthetic blend Fleetguard LF16035 30um @ 100% (25um @ 98.7% last info) Stratapore Synthetic Purolator L45335 20um @ 97.5% Cellulose Purolator PL45335 20um @ 99.9% Synthetic Amsoil EaO80 20um @ 100%, 15um @ 98.7%, 7um @ 59.97% Nanofiber Synthetic Donaldson ELF7349/DBL7349 20um @ 100%, 15um @ 98.7%, 7um @ 59.97% Nanofiber Synthetic Mobil 1 M1403 10um @ 50% Synthetic blend

Well I have decided to go with the Stage 2 Garrett. After doing a little more research its a 3788R center section and turbine with a 3582R 61.4/82 comp wheel. It will be the best choice for how I plan to use the truck. I also scored a killer deal on a used ATS 2-piece manifold. According to ATS they plumbed it as a 3/3 divided collecter (vs the stock 4/2), and it keeps the turbo in the OEM location. It's as close to a 2nd gen manifold as I can get without actually getting one. It's probably not as good on flow as a 2nd gen, but I don't have to rework the intake, exhaust, CAC plumbing, or anything else. I am not sure what gains I will see over stock, but I should at least get slightly better spool, cooler EGT's, and little better sound. So the run down on coming mods is Garrett Stage 2 turbo, 62/64/.89 Ball Bearing WatercooledATS 2-piece pulse flow exh manifoldTurbo performance manifold/turbine blanketsExhaust wrap for EB and down pipeARP 425 Head StudsDDP 50'sBig smile on my face when towing. I'll probably end up backing the JR off to SW1, that should put me about 350-375 at the rear wheels, which is perfect for towing. If I want more power turning the SJR to SW2 should put me at 400/900ish to the ground, but I think I'll wait until I have a clutch for that, which hopefully is a long time.

I am planning to debadge mine as soon as these are available... So I guess not a complete de-badge.

Like I said I have called multiple times and verified it. They give me the same data as on the website, and when I tell them that the OE spec is 7um absolute, they say "Were 7um nominal, thats the same thing" Then we get in a discussion about absolute, nominal, and beta ratios and they still claim its as good or better, even thou they just told me the website is correct and its 8um absolute. I remind them that the OE filter is 7um absolute and 5um at 96%, where they publish (and verify) 8um absolute and 6um at 95%, both primary and secondary ratings being worse than stock. They then go we are 7um nominal, its the same. This is where I get frustrated, all the evidense is presented, all the specs are there. Nominal is NOT absolute, yet Wix seems to think so. --- Update to the previous post... Just called again. Same story as always. Me:What are the filter specs? W: 7um, with 8um at 98.7%, and 6um at 95%. Me:Okay so OEM is 7um at 98.7%, so this doesn't meet OE spec. W: Well we tested it and it does. Me:Really? How can you say that when OEM is 7um at 98.7% and 5um at 96%. W: Do you know how small a micron is? Me: Yes, and 8 is more than 7, do you know that? W: Do you know how small a micron is? Me: Okay, thanks for the info. Verifies it doesn't meet OEM spec. W: Well our engineers disagree. Me: Well their data disagrees W: Do you know how small a micron is? Same story every time. Based on the published specs, and not what the phone rep thinks the engineers must have meant, its does not meet OE spec and should not be used in HPCR allplications.

I run the GDP and it certainly did make a difference in throttle responce, low-mid range boost numbers, spool time, intake air temp, and just looks better than stock!

Prist really only deals with water in the fuel, the Jet Fuel is already good for the cold temps (gel wise) without prist. Kerosene is nothing more than No 1 thats a little bit "drier" you can mix it in any ratio you want, just make sure you have a lubricity additive in the tank too. But if you can find No 1 thats the best. 50:50 below about 20* and 100% below about -10*F is a good general rule of thumb.

Its good oil, and a pour point of -39*C.

Synthetic.

Do NOT run a gas oil in your diesel, period. There are many things to consider when choose an oil for cold weather performance. But in general the first number in oil weight denotes the cold weather performane. A 5w-30 oil should flow the same as a 5w-40 when cold, in general. Then you have to consider the makeup of the oil, dino vs. synthetic. CI vs CJ, etc. For your 02 I reccommend a CI if you can find it. Here are some oil pour points for reference. Amsoil AME syn 15w-40 CJ -42*CAmsoil HDD syn 5w-30 CJ -50*CAmsoil DEO syn 5w-40 CI -46*CRotella Syn 5w-40 CI -45*CDelo 400 Syn 5w-40 CJ -42*CDelo 400 15w-40 CJ -30*C Those are just some example. I run Amsoil AME 15w-40 year round, thou I rarely go below -20*C in any given winter.