AH64ID

The thunderbirds are F-16's and a rather small jet. There are also Army National Guard Blackhawks in N Little Rock.

I get mine thru Amsoil. Its a buck or two more there, but shipping is negligible when I add it to my annual oil order.

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3rd-gen-powertrain/35010-high-idle-3.html http://picasaweb.google.com/OC0788/HighIdlePinConfig# http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/343338-post21.html

B5 is the limit that Dodge has approved for all the trucks (I don't recall what happened in '10). The 3rd gen is allowed to run B20 (Gov't, Commercial, Fleet) with improved fuel filtering. The B20 "kit" includes an improved lift pump, additional 10um f/w separator, WIF sensor, and fuel heater. The lift pump really isn't needed, and 10um filtration is nice but a good 20um f/w sep will do the trick. The heater and sensor are a nice to have. A filter like the one below will allow you to run more than B5. If you want to run more than B20 I would do a little more for f/w filtration. I have run B20 twice, once it gelled like no tomorrow (with ample additive, or so I thought), the other was in AZ and the truck ran great, good mileage, quiet, higher fuel pressure.

I have yet to hear about any lines other than stock on a HPCR. People sell modded rails, but I thought all the lines were stock?Stock specs take the 5.9 to about 23,206 PSI, with the RPRV set around 26-27K. The 6.7 will go up to about 26K, and I am not sure what the RPRV is set for. The gauges are different the 5.9 one maxes at about 26K and the 6.7 at about 30K (I have the actual numbers at work).

That is cool.. And I guess I'll admit that I read that title a little different!

The links show the same filter. I beleive this is the filter you want https://dynamic.donaldson.com/webc/WebStore/search/item_detail.html?item=49449 It is the same exact media that Amsoil uses, and the exact filter as the Amsoil EaO80. I run the ELF7349 as its paint is cheaper than the Amsoil paint. 20um @ 100% 15um @ 98.7% 7um @ 59.97% It holds more than 20gr of dirt, and AFIK is the best full flow filter you can buy! Normal Fleetguard filters are 35um (OEM filter); Stratapore filters are 25um, so yes this filter is better.

Sounds like it wouldn't hurt to open and take a peak for a little wrench time and a gasket... maybe some Coors!

Cummins released a brochure that stated the engines should be driven sooner rather than later when cold. Let it get good oil pressure, run for 30 or so seconds if really cold and drive away is the best thing you can do for your motor. Now thats generally what I do, but depending on what I am doing (taking the kids out, up and down the road at elk camp, etc) I will let it warm up first for some comfort. But I prefer to let it get warm with 90 minutes of block heater and drive off.I also don't like using the exhaust brake on a cold motor, I am pretty sure it puts tons of soot into the oil (based on UOA). If I am going to idle with the EB on I will let the truck run for a few minutes at a fast idle, then turn the EB on. I think it helps the rings seal and gets the combustion temps up.

The cold weather one is standard, and can't be turned off, on all HPCR's. It works as such..~32*F and below: after 2 minutes of idle and coolant below 180*F the idle will ramp up to 1,000. ~15*F and below: rpms will ramp up to 1,000 as soon as the truck starts, then after being shut-off by brake, drive, etc, it will re-ramp up to 1,000 after 2 minutes below 180*. 04-current can have the cruise control fast idle enabled, some 03's can but they are rare and all seem to be late 03's. This was done for PTO use, and doesn't take any mods on an auto, but takes grounding the #22 pin on the ECM for manuals (tells the ECM a PTO is in use). This feature was not turned on as a standard until 2010, and I still haven't read how to make it work on the manual trucks in 2010+. I have both enabled, and the #22 pin grounded and use the manual one very often. The automatic one kicks on when it needs to, but usually I have it at 1,100 rpms anyhow and supersede the automatic one.If you haven't grounded the #22 pin on yours you just have the automatic version, even thou Smarty has enabled the manual fast idle.

There are 2 kinds of fast idle. One is automatic, and can't be turned off. Thats the one that goes on ambient and coolant temp. The other is the cruise control version, which up until '10 needed to be enabled at the dealership.

Foolers are nice becuase you can trip the 6cyl fast idle for extended idling, or during periods of high amp draw, or to cool the motor quicker. I use the OE fast idle on my truck all the time.

What kind of wiring bypassing have you done?There is very little you can bypass on these HPCR's and make them run. I would guess you have an issue with the HP system, whether the ECM is telling it not to fire for a missing/loose connection, or a bad FCA or Injector. I would pull the injectors and have them tested, then start looking at the CP3. A Stage 1 Bag of Parts will change out all the common problem parts with high performance ones, so that may be a place to start if the injectors test good.

I thought it still had to be activated, as all your doing is fooling the ECM into thinking the parameters are met for fast idle. If its not activated the truck will idle the same as it would without the fooler, and 0* out. Oh, and good luck with the fast idle vs high idle, i've been working that one for years:banghead:

I am looking fwd to the info. I would like to know more about flow required, works on the B series, and optimal pressure. I am rarely above the 60 psi optimal from the brochure. I am 45-55 most of the time. Oh and price?I am quite happy with my Amsoil, but would still like to get more soot out (if its still there after the cam, haven't done a UOA yet).

I like analog gauges, I read about far fewer errors with them over digital gauges. Analog are also easier to read at a glace, I have both styles in my truck.

Turn the cruise on and hit "Set". Then accel or decel to go from 1100 to 1500 in 100 rpm increments.

Some great info in there. The biggest thing I worry about with a centrifuge is taking 2GPM of flow away from the engine. It says it uses 10% of the oil flow, so do our engines really pump 20GPM?

The CR's do take a little longer to crank, but 2-3 seconds seems long to me. There was a flash early on for long cranking, but I think that was fixed by 07. Usually long starts are due to weak batteries, injectors, or issues with the HP fuel system.

I would spend the money for pricol's or ISSPRO's, they seem to work better and last longer. On a stock truck I would run EGT's, Trans, Boost. Then when you start to add power I would look at fuel pressure. Rail pressure is really only needed if you are increasing pressure, but that takes lots of extra filtration (which is good on a stock truck too!), and gets mixed results.

:banghead::banghead:

Hope the trip goes well!

That sounds right, I wonder if its your ground?Have you tried to bypass the installed wiring and run the pump straight off the battery?

I wanted to give a big THANK YOU to all of our Vet's! Our country is what it is becuase of the men and women who have served.So enjoy your day.Happy Veterans Day!

That nut should be a 10mm. I just did a battery swap and they look like they did in 04 when the truck was sold.