AH64ID

I wouldn't mix them, and I wouldn't use any SAE 50. The SAE 50 is not a syncromesh fluid, and thus likely not compatible with the NV5600. The SAE 50 is supposed to be a GL-4 and acceptable for the NV4500. NV4500 fluids in a NV5600 often leads to bad things.

I'll 2nd that statement! Great to see you kicking around.

That’s minimum pressure, not operating pressure. Ive never seen below 40 above 2000 rpms and it’s normally in the 55-65 range at 2000. To dip below 50 above 2000 takes oil temps above 230°, which means heavy towing on a big grade. I looked into the spinner liveoak mentioned, but fitment is difficult. It is designed to work on ISB thou. Unless you had a UOA with particle count you won’t see the difference in filters in a UOA, unless one fails or plugs. The goal with better filters is increased life due to decreased wear.

I would compare warm engine pressures. 42 seems low for initial startup and high for warm idle. 70 at idle could be normal with oil temps below 50°F, but way too high for warm idle. In 95/96 the gauge was still a real gauge, so it's likely far more accurate than anything newer.

Any luck with tuning?

Probably because it's a thing Your motor is basically 1998 technology/emissions... that's why. It doesn't put soot into the oil like new motor do. The motor posted meets 2015 emissions, very big difference in terms of soot in the oil. Some of it is just the physical design of the piston/injector that was used to meet emissions. The 04.5-07 5.9 piston puts LOT of soot into the oil, the 03-04 and 6.7 pistons not as much. The 6.7 puts soot into the oil, but not from piston design.

Looks like it has the original oil in it....

Interesting. I’ve never seen that with any of the places I buy filters, but it could be the filters I buy.. i.e. DBL's There are multiple filter companies that sell filters to one-another, but usually only in the basic filter lines and not the top of the line media. I have seen certain online retailers sell Wix filters with stickers on them for other crosses. I know that the Fleetuguard, Baldwin, and Donaldson filters I’ve bought are all different in terms of flow holes and materiel appearance. The media used by Donaldson on their BDL line is rated quite differently than Baldwin and Fleetguard stuff.

Precisely!! This is one of the published tables I use. I find they are all pretty much the same, and this one is fairly comprehensive, even if Toyo doesn't make the size such as my LT255/80R17. https://www.toyotires.com/media/2125/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20170203.pdf I also have never had an explosive failure, and luckily all of my rapid deflations have been below 10 mph.

I just got back last week from our trip, little earlier this year, and it's amazing what 10 days does for average temps. It was cool enough to keep the meat, but the nightly lows were not as low as we usually see. This was all up at 6-9K feet.

As stated it is micron, or 1/1,000,000 of a meter. Yes a 15µ filter will catch finer particles than a 25µ filter. IF you're engine has sludge/dirty then it will occur. If it doesn't, then no harm. Yes, but it takes a LOT of neglect with synthetics. For the most part, yes this is very true. You could run into issues with dino oil with modified engines, or if engine oil temps get too high. It's not always abuse, but with modern oils and filters it's moving more into the abuse catergory. Unless you consider modification abuse. I think the most common cause of sludge is going too long on oil, time wise, with acceptable mileage... such as 9 months and 3,000 miles; as well as short trips where the oil doesn't get to temp. That's an extreme case! It doesn't have to get that far to cause issues. Many times the small amount of sludge buidup may be present, but not causing any issues. The issues arise with an oil change to a different oil, commonly synthetic, and it cleans up the sludge and seals that have dried up are now exposed to oil and leak.

We've been seeing 20's each morning, with 20°F being our lowest so far for the season. Still getting into the mid-upper 60's. Our house is typically ~10°F colder than the airport, which is less than 10 miles away.

I'm not sure who called them evil damaging products. There are known potentials with all oil, more so with dino. Synthetic oils are known to reverse some of those potential issues... all I am saying is an extra filter if you change from one to the other isn't a bad idea. It's not going to be needed for most, but it's cheap insurance.

Known issues... but you can look at it how ever you want to. It's very easy, and cheap, to do a little extra preventative maintenance so why spend so much energy fighting it? There is plenty of truth to each of the statements. Things don't have to happen to you to be true. I've seen dirty fuel tanks and I've seen clean fuel tanks, far more clean than dirty but filters are cheap. Same thing with dirty motors... it's easier to be smart with filters than it is to open a tank/motor to verify.

I didn't say to change the oil early.... I said I recommend an early oil filter change. Without knowing the status of the motor I cannot recommend a full synthetic OCI on a single filter. If you're cleaning a dirty motor the filter will plug sooner, so it won't last as long. A filter change is cheap insurance, and much better than a filter that goes into bypass mode. You can read it if you want to, but the reason the misnomer about synthetic causing leaks got spread for a reason. Synthetics clean dirty motors. No different than my correlation to using bio-diesel for the first time.

According to the WIX website it's not, but you are getting their shister marketing first hand. They call it a 7µ nominal filter, but nominal doesn't have a set beta rating. The filter has always been marketed at 7µ nominal, but it's a 8µ absolute filter. Minimum spec is 7µ absolute.

I don't think I ever said they petroleum oils always cause a dirty engine. It is known that when ran too long (miles or time), or out of appropriate temperature ranges that they are more prone to creating sludge in an engine.

There is lots of proof in the statement, and has been for many many years. Just because something is true and occurs does not mean it occurs to most. Our own experiences are not absolute, and my not even be average. We need to look outside our own wheelhouse to see the whole picture. You have always had a good maintenance program and I am not surprised your motor is clean. That doesn't mean every motor is as clean with that many, or fewer miles. Without seeing the inside of every motor I make a general recommendation, it's likely overkill for most but the last thing we want is a plugged filter bypassing. Its similar to biodiesel plugging fuel filters. It’s a known occurrence when people start running bio, but that doesn’t mean everyone has the issue.

The 98.5-99's use a different filter, which is the FS19598, which is still a 10µ filter. The 00-02's use the same canister style as the 03-07 5.9's, but have different filters. The FS19855 is the 10µ 2nd gen filter, and the FS19856 is the 3rd gen 7µ filter. Both have the same flow ratings, but the FS19855 will hold a little more dirt, likely due to slighlty less media. I haven't seen anything on upgrading the 2nd gen specs, and honestly it's been so long I doubt that would happen. Nothing built in 02 is under the OE warranty and hasn't been for years. The change from 10µ (FS19800E) on 3rd gens to 7µ was warrant driven, despite Bosch recommending a 5µ filter. By the time the 6.7 rolled out Dodge was doing better, but it took until 2010ish to get great OEM filtration. 2013+ OEM filtration is fantastic. What I have heard of is parts houses only stocking and selling the 3rd gen filter for 00-07 trucks, as the filter is backwards compatible to 00. For 00-07 the Baldwin PF7977 is still the best drop-in filter at 5µ.

Don't get me wrong, a micron is REALLY small... but for a company to sell a product that doesn't meet the minimum OEM spec because it's close enough is pretty wrong. They are simply counting on the average consumer not knowing any better. While all of the 5.9s are now out of factory warranty, they weren't always. It would have been very easy for Dodge to deny any injector warranty claim for anyone who showed up to the dealer with a Wix fuel filter installed. The line in the sand was drawn by Dodge and Wix is on the wrong side.

I’m curious why. Their Blue oil filters are unmatched in this, and many, applications and their fuel filters are similar. That being said, that’s their Blue line and not their standard stuff. I prefer others over Donaldson standard stuff. Last I looked Donaldson doesn’t even have a air filter for CR’s. When I called and asked Wix about their specs they told me it was close enough, and a micron is really small. I laughed at the dude and hung up. Wix often uses a nominal rating to cross to an absolute rating. Absolute is what’s important. That’s the case with their fuel filters. They have some good oil and applications thou.

Two of my 3 fuel filters are Baldwin, the OE canister filter and my initial 20µ filter. The crosses from Donaldson aren't as good. My final fuel filter is either a Fleetguard or a Donaldson, same specs but the Donaldson is cheaper. I've used a lot of Baldwin filters over the years and for the most part they are good filters.

I put a gallon of RV antifreeze in each of mine...

While some fail young it's not uncommon to get lots of miles out of them. Quality fuel and fuel filters is key. The NAPA off the shelf filters are NOT quality, and don't even meet MIN OEM spec... yet people still run them.