AH64ID

Unlike DC voltage you can’t easily series AC power due to the phasing of the alternating current. The Honda’s are designed to sync their phases, but they have to be connected in parallel for that to work. Household 240V is in fact 2 120V legs, but the are phases 180° apart. Even thou it has 2 hot wires it is still called single phase. If you think about overhead power lines single phase is one wire (plus ground) and three phase is 3 wires (plus ground). The transformer then takes that single phase, often 7200V or higher, and transforms it down to 120V on two legs with 180° of phase separation, which is household 240V single phase power. If it’s a 4 wire 240V plug there is a neutral so that the appliance can also use 120V.

They should have a VIN before it’s built, ask them about that.

Looks normal for about 25% load, which seems inline for a DRW at 70 mph.

Do you have the VIN? There is some tracking available with a VIN. Shipped means no chip shortage is effecting your truck. 2023 will be a minor refresh, but no major cab changes until 2027.

Those numbers are more inline. The load must have run up with the restriction. I’ll still peek at the OEM tables when I get a minute.

I'll pull out my computer later this week and peek at the stock tables for comparison.

The boost and EGT's seem fairly normal, but the RP seems high. What kind of load?

Yes I am interested in knowing. I've read about their kits, they seem well thought out.

Correct, 120V with them in parallel. Need something with 240V, so the small honda's are out. I have a older Winco tri-fuel 5500 that I use for my well, but will be selling it this winter and using a newer Honda 5000 (don't recall the exact model). What kit did you use to make the EU2200 tri-fuel?

I use Amsoil when I want an anti-gel, which is a couple times a year. @Mopar1973Man which test data shows PS as decreasing lubricity? The 575 in the test I’ve seen was still an improvement in lubricity over the baseline. I’m not a PS user, but it is endorsed by Cummins.

Not surprising. Like I said it’s not designed to keep you from getting it, it’s designed to keep you out of the hospital when you get it. Like I said, not advocating one way or the other just making sure facts are being stated.

Having had covid does not make you immune to getting it again. I know several people that have had it more than once. When you get down to it the leading cause of death is life, it kills you 100% of the time. 113 out of how many? Percentage is the important number, not number of cases. The vaccine is not intended to make you immune, but rather to lessen the effects. That means that it can still kill you, but it’s less likely to. Not advocating one way or the other, just needing to see the whole picture to make an accurate judgement.

Only on very very rare occasions when the weather takes a short term turn for the worse. When the kids were younger we would pile them all in the camper and throw a movie on for a rain/snow storm. Once it let up back out they went. I also just happen to know what it draws and can say I’ve ever fell asleep with it on or drained the batteries with it. I wouldn’t install one in a camper, but they have come in the last 2 we’ve bought. We camp to be outside and enjoy the scenery. It’s also why we don’t camp in campgrounds or near other people.

We've had multiple nights camping over the last 6 weeks in the low-mid 30's, even one night at 28°. It feels great!!!

You're talking AC amps, but using DC amps... really need to talk DC amps. Your TV draws about the same as mine. 12.1-12.2 is not plenty of battery left, it's recharge time. 12.2V is 50% SOC and as low as you should regularly run your batteries or they can get damaged. 0V is bad.. usually they don't like to come back from 11V.

Right, but the inverter does. 1A of AC is approx 11A of DC after being inverted. A constant 11A draw will drain most RV battery banks to 50% SOC overnight. What do you have for batteries in the RV?

Of DC?

6V's usually have more amp hours for the size and they are more durable deep cycles. @Mopar1973Manwhat size TV? My DVD player doesn't draw much, but the TV is power hungry. It's about 12A DC to run both, which is only 12.5 hours assuming nothing else uses DC power on my 300AH bank.

Just to clarify, converters are what most campers have to charge the batteries and provide 12V power. 120VAC to 12VDC Inverters are for inverting 12VDC to 120VAC, and are not commonly installed from the factory in RV's. I have both, an upgraded converter and an inverter. For the converter I went with the Progressive Dynamics PD4655. It's been great! For the inverter I have a Xantrex 1500W (3000 Surge) inverter and a pair of auto-transfer switches. When I'm on battery power and the inverter is on every outlet in the camper has power aside from the fridge, microwave, a/c, electric element on the water heater, and the converter. It's been a great setup. My batteries are 6V 300AH Lifelines.

My camper lives plugged in when not camping, but I also disconnect my batteries after a few days of charging post camping. I am not a fan of leaving batteries sitting on a trickle charger, especially ones that don't have a load on them. The only batteries I'll leave on a trickle charger is my 2018, but there are so many electronics using power on it all the time that the trickle charger isn't over charging them. All my other batteries get a top off every couple months and they seem to last longer than most batteries. Standard 3 stage converters are known to overcharge RV batteries, even aftermarket upgraded converters. If your batteries are wet and plugged in they need to be checked at least every 60 days. My batteries are sealed AGM and more robust, but I still don't like to leave them on a charger all the time. They are currently on their 8th season and will still be at 13.1V after months of sitting without a charge.

For towing go with the 12. The 14 is slower to spool, but will do better above 2500 rpms.

Since you're keeping the old 2000w you will be able to parallel them as long as one is a companion model and your 2000w one falls into the following serial number range. The EU2200i are only compatible with EU2000i or EU2000i Companion models within a specific serial number range: EAAJ-2017305 through EAAJ-9999999 EACT-1000001 through EACT-9999999

I would get the one you find a better deal on. The advantage to the standard model, dual 15a plugs, is that it also has a DC output and is usually cheaper. I was going to get the standard model, but scored a new in box Companion model for $750 last summer. Have you looked at the smaller A/C’s? The Coleman 9K BTU might be a better unit for a smaller slide in.

All DPFs use fuel to regen and clean the DPF. DPF is for particulate removal. There have been some changes over the years as to how they get the fuel, such as the Duramax now has a 9th injector. DEF is used inside the SCR and is for NOx reduction, which means less EGR can be used. SCR is great technology as the engine is much cleaner without the heavy EGR. Cummins has emissions systems that are after treatment only, meaning no EGR, but the EPA mandates EGR. Grrr. At least the EGR use on modern Ram Cummins is low. At rapid power changes and higher power settings the EGR isn’t used at all. That’s a win, but it’s also why DEF use increases when towing or hauling heavy.

Just removing the DPF, or it’s guts, will not prevent a regen. DPF isn’t a bad thing, EGR is.