AH64ID

I don't pre-fill either, for the reasons that Michael mentioned. The oil filter drains back about 1/2 anyways so it's really not much different than a regular cold soaked start. I monitor pressure on the drivers side of the block, well past the filter, and the difference in time to build pressure after an oil filter change is barely noticeable over a regular start.

I'm sure it would do fine. The 6.7's are still a flat tappet motor, and doing well on CK, with higher power than the 12V's ever had from the factory. When I called and asked Amsoil about that they told me it was similar to AME. Amsoil is very excited about the CK specs, as they didn't like CJ oil any more than those of use still using CI.

There are also 2 schools of thought on re-torques. 1st being to just torque check them, and 2nd being to break torque and then re-torque. The 1st will really only show you if they are coming loose, as they could drop by 5-10% and still not move at the torque setting. The 2nd ensures a more even clamp. Neither is often necessary on a OEM head gasket, but preferred by many engine builders to ensure a consistent even clamp on the gasket for increased cylinder pressures.

Great motors! That's what I thought. The motor was still fairly new, but had had a good break in and by looking at the new motor it didn't "break-in" the same. The copper over 500 was still on HDD. No mechanical issue that ever manifested. The engine only had 32K miles on it at the time, and hadn't seen much heavy towing at that point in its life. No, but between the oil and the motor it's doing quite well. I'm due for my annual change as well and will likely do it in November. I've been toying with the idea of running the new DME. It's slighty thicker when hot, has a better HTHS rating, very slightly higher NOACK volatility, and a slightly higher wear scar. The TBN is also lower, but I am not overly concerned with my OCI. The Amsoil rep said it would do better in every aspect, aside from extended drain intervals. That's the funny thing about 04.5-07 motors with that crappy piston design, some do well and others don't. That was all with a bypass filter as well, which helps but can't catch the soot in solution. That's one of the things I don't like about modern oils, they make soot too hard to filter out. I understand why with EGR, but it sucks for those of us with bypass filters :-) AME starts at 15.0, so it never dropped when there was soot present. The lack of soot is probably why it's a little lower on the new motor, but it's very consistent. Cummins wants the oil to be between 12.5 and 16.3. Yes your UOA is quite good. Have you considered the new CK DZF (0w-40) or DEO (5w-40)? That's pretty good. I'm at 25 psi on a warm motor and 750 rpms. Warm being 185-190° on both coolant and oil. I do monitor oil pressure on the drivers side of the block above the ECM, which seems to give lower readings than the port in the oil filter head and appears to be effected by temperature more which all makes sense.

20mpg based on odo miles with a 5% error is 19mpg actual. Having ran several different sizes of tires on my truck none have had more than a 2-3% change in economy. That from stock to 285’s to my 125 lb 19.5’s. Each tire size has its benefits. The OEM tires pulled better in OD at 65, but the current ones do better at 60 in 5th. Personally I wouldn’t run something as small as a 245 if you ever see back roads and/or snow. The pumpkin drags enough as it is on my truck with 255/80R17’s coming it at 33”. It’s not as bad in the summer, but even with the stock 265’s I would find more sticks, rocks, etc bumping the undercarriage than I do with 33’s. On my dads 17 he has some winter tires that are 265/65R18 vs 265/70R18 for his summer tires. He gets better economy on the bigger tires, even after accounting for the speedo error. The 6.7 is a different beast thou, and prefers lower rpms than the 5.9’s.

What truck do you have @ofelas? I do see cold, just not below -36°f or even below -20°f on a annual basis. I've cold started AME at -20°f (after peaking at -28°f) and the oil pressure builds about the same as 0°f. I've ran AME below -30°f, just never had to cold start it below -30°f. I don't think it has as good of high temperature protection as AME, just based on the specs provided by Amsoil. I wish I had run a mechanical oil pressure gauge when I had HDD to see what it's pressure does under heavy load. I know that the thicker, and higher HTHS, AME will drop from 60 to low 40's on pressure with elevated oil temps and thus thinner oil. I'd be curious how much lower the pressure would be with HDD at 230°+ oil temp. No, and the HTHS of HDD is one of the main reasons I stopped using it. Aside from the pour point the specs on AME are better across the board. Now that CK oil is out you have a better option with extreme cold performance. The initial reports are that CK is better than CI oil in most aspects, especially high temp operation, but it doesn't have the service life. Service life isn't a huge deal since I've never worn a oil out and these days I just change it once a year regardless of TBN. Here you go. 1-3 are HDD 4-5 are AME. Lube was changed between 3/4. You can see the difference in my 2 motors on wear metals and soot. Same oil and filter setup. This is my motor since the rebuild. I ran Delo for the first 10K miles then AME. re time towing these days than I did 8 years ago.

I misread an old UOA... hence the edit.

It would certainly hurt it, as it takes quite a few hp to run. If it's loud enough to hear then I would guess a couple mpg. I lost about 1-1.5 mpg on a road trip where the fan was running about 50% of the time back when I was messing with different fan settings. I never heard it but I could see the fan rpm's and duty cycle were up.

It should be able to get the same mileage, but there are plenty of other things that would effect overall mileage with custom tuning such as duration, pressure, throttle sensitivity, etc.

Even with custom tuning and 03/04 pistons I rarely break 18-19. I have gotten over 20 twice in 30K miles. I never ran 03 S-Jr programming but S-JR 04.5-07 tuning never got me over 20, and rarely 19. With a 12V tune I can break 19 pretty easy.

He should be able to get that mileage back then.

What settings was he running on the S-Jr?

Actual or overhead?

You found Valvoline CI-4 last year? I haven't seen it in a decade. Never mind, the photo didn't load earlier and now I see it's CJ-4 vs CK-4. CK is a good spec, from what I can tell What I saw was wear metals that increased much quicker, and higher, with the HDD. My theory was that since the high temp/high shear viscosity of the HDD was 3.5 cP and the minimum is 3.5 cP for a -30 oil, from Cummins, that it was increasing the wear. The Viscosity also reacted to the soot much quicker, and the soot seemed to climb a little quicker too. A lot of the soot was my stock motor, since the rebuild doesn't produce hardly any soot. Piston design is likely a big part of it. In the end, I just didn't see the need to run a 5w-30 when there was a 15w-40 that would provide better protection at increased power and loads. I don't need the protection below -36° that it offers.

Lots of different info on the H11's out there, but what little I found was that it's 125 just like the ARP 425's. They appear to be a tweener on price and strength of the 425's and 625's, thou some sources put them at the same tensile strength as 425's just with a higher price.

It all depends on how hot you're going. When I installed my studs I used the block heater, but when the builder put my motor back together he drove it for a bit. But it's not like the block is 200° when you re-torque it. It won't be super hot unless you're towing/racing and even then it takes time to dissemble it. They must have been doing something wrong to snap a 625! That's a strong stud. It's supposed to keep the pressure on them during the stretching from heat, thou it's not much. The studs need certain torque on them to do their job. What is the book torque on A11s? 425's go to 125 and 625's go to 150. Even hot at 150 shouldn't be anywhere near what the 625 can handle.

So what is he not happy with on the tune he has? 03 OEM tuning is pretty good for mileage when empty.

Most folks aren't able to setup gears themselves, or wanting to use junk yard gears. While it does reduce the cost it's not the most common method.

Hot re-torques are quite common, at least warm re-torques.

Be sure to use LOTS of lube, or they won’t torque properly. I also plugged the block heater in for 8 hours to get everything warm for the final torque. I’d guess the pistons looked like they did from the high timing. The injector marks also tell me high timing, looks like a common rail with a big early pilot. Glad to see it’s working it’s way back to running.

Ive never looked at HP’s software, but it can’t be too much different than UDC Pro or EFI, depending on the year. Custom tuning isn’t something most people can jump right into and figure out. What are the specs on his truck? How does he use it?

They will help. The blanket helps when driving thru rolling hills and he manifold helps all the time. It just not guaranteed to be enough, but I’ve done both and don’t regret it.

I ran HDD for several years and wasn’t happy wiTh the UOA’s. AME is a much better oil for these motors. HDD barely meets the specs for a 5w-30 in a 5.9. Garret made a kit for the 2nd gen, but I haven’t seen one for sale in a few years.

It looks like it updated from -40° to -36° in May of 2016, thou I’m not sure why. I’ve done several UOA’s since then and haven’t noticed anything different. Probably a SAE standard change or Amsoil update without any reformulation.

Idaho keeps most of it's scales turned on all the time, even if they aren't manned so it's a free trip to the scales. I use the one in Horseshoe Bend on ID-55 quite often, as well as the one east of Boise on 84. The one on 84 isn't closed as often thou. On my 17's I run 65/45 most the time and adjust the rear as needed if I'll be heavier.