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AH64ID

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Everything posted by AH64ID

  1. IIRC "premium" diesel has higher Cetane,but is basically #2.
  2. Any pics of that part of it? Who is they? Cummins or aftermarket? I've got a 4 year old Cummins one in mine that is like the one on the left.
  3. I hate to say it, but UDC Pro is what you need. There just aren’t enough tables in UDC Basic. Most of that comes from the base tables that are adjusted by MADS, especially since you’re using SSR base tune. Dialing duration back just makes you run a higher load, and then you’ll also effect the duration at other rpms too. Timing and rail pressure are the best adjustments for that in UDC Basic, especially with stock injectors.
  4. Maybe it’s the photo angle, but the one on the right doesn’t look like it will work with the bypass in the motor. It doesn’t look like it has the correct shape to seal it.
  5. Ah, so they gave you a 12V one. That explains the proper temps, but easy to get there.
  6. 1st won't have much engine braking due to the torque converter not being locked. Any tuning on the truck? The few stock 48RE's I've driven are pretty weak in 1st and R due to tuning.
  7. That appears correct for a Cummins 190° thermostat. Aftermarket ones should do the same, but I hear too many horror stories about non-OEM thermostats so I stick with Cummins. Anyhow.. the 190° thermostat crack at 190°±3° and aren't full open until 207°. Max allowable temp 225°. So it seems like everything is operating normally. The fully closed temperature will depend on several things such as radiator temp, engine load, etc. I'll see it dip to the low 180's in the winter if I'm not towing, but normally it won't go much below 187°. So... I think you're good on the thermostat, but I am surprised you're able to hit 207° without a load. I've never seen my thermostat go full open without towing a decent load. The hottest I've ever gotten without a trailer was 204°, and that was on a 113° day doing 75 up a 6% grade in Az. It's very rare for me to even break 200° without a trailer. I cruise with or without a trailer at 193-195°. So I would double check the radiator for cleanliness or any other blockage.. which could be a/c condenser or intercooler blockage as well.
  8. Yes I've spent a lot of time emailing and talking with the manufacturers.
  9. Here is the fluid that I always recommend. Lots of great reports. Around $13/qt if you can find a good dealer. https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/transmission-fluid/manual/manual-transmission-and-transaxle-gear-lube-75w-90/?code=MTGQT-EA
  10. Aside from any DOT issues a sump only has a few distinct applications. A modified basket is the best option IMO.
  11. Yes the AD will remove any air that it can, but air bubbles will be generated at many points past the AD.
  12. I've thought the same thing before. It would be interesting to see what's going on with some clear tubing in terms of flow into the T at different loads.
  13. Yes at idle it will be the most fuel being returned to the filler tube, and the return off the head. 5/16" is plenty. Honestly 1/2" hose is more than is needed for the AD 150 GPH pumps, but it doesn't hurt anything. 3/8" hose is more than capable of flowing the required fuel.
  14. In typical form it's not the most clear. But it still looks like there are FAA exemptions for recreational use only. https://www.faa.gov/uas/faqs/
  15. What size are they and how are they using them?
  16. It depends on the size of the drone and it's intended use. Personal drones below a certain size don't require registration, but they are required to follow flight regs. Commercial use of any size requires registration. Drones have made themselves into a different category based on their proliferation and lower cost to acquire/operate. I've been around aviation for 15 years and I can't recall a single time where remote control planes were ever an issue, yet drones are constantly an issue. They are different and a few bad apples have made a bad name for them.
  17. It's not that the filters cannot let the required flow thru, it's that they are not as efficient at filtering and separating water, and they will put undue pressure on the pump. The pump will do everything it can to ensure the proper output pressure is maintained, regardless of what filter is on there. Basically, you shouldn't see a pressure drop even with the low flow filters. IIRC your 1st pump lasted a long time, but nowhere near what the expected service life was (IIRC best guess was around 1/2 to 2/3 of the expected service life). That being said it's nearly impossible to know why it failed earlier than expected.
  18. It really doesn't matter if you're burning 2 GPH or 20 GPH as the supply flow will be the same (assuming the pump is keeping up with the set pressure). The return to the filler neck is excess fuel that is bleed off from the pressure regulator to keep it set where it should be. As demand increases filler neck return may decrease as needed, so under very high demand you could be pumping more fuel than at lower demand. Then you still have the VP and head returns. In a perfect world the injection pump is supplied with the same fuel flow regardless of the burn rate. This is why is doesn't matter if your burning 2 or 20 GPH for filter selection as you're pumping at filtering at 60+ GPH regardless. Then you look at how the AD regulates pressure and the return to the filler neck and you'll realize that the f/w sep is getting the full AD flow potential thru it ALL the time. The fuel needed to make "X" psi continues onto the 2nd filter and then to the VP. The excess fuel is then routed back to the tank. So if you run a 20 GPH filter with 100+ GPH of flow you can imagine how little it's actually going to do. Long story short... burn rate is 99.999% immaterial to filter selection on a diesel.
  19. Looks like jack wagon drone operators are at it again... I really hate those things. https://www.ktvb.com/mobile/article/news/local/drone-radio-issues-hamper-idaho-firefighting-efforts/277-585612892
  20. If they are all in spec I don't see a reason to not reuse them.
  21. Good news on the rain. I was watching the radar last night hoping it would put some moisture up in that area.
  22. Still showing moparmans as being in a "GO" zone, but no update today yet.
  23. As we identified in your other thread, that's the wrong gauge. If you do get the correct gauge I'll bet every single OE bolt is within tolerance. If you're going to spend money get ARP, otherwise reuse the stock ones.
  24. Just what I was going to ask. The bolts in the first photo are too long to be stretched from use. Guess you get to go ahead with the install over the weekend!!! I didn't realize new bolts were that much cheaper than studs. Stock-ish power build? You got a B/C series head bolt gauge. The gauge lists that it's used for B and C series, not ISB or ISC engines. As mentioned B and C are older pure mechanical versions. ISB and ISC are the more modern versions, ISB includes anything from 5.9 VP to 6.7 with DEF/DPF. QSB is the heavier version and usually for marine applications, but not always. I use QSB pistons in my truck and dad has QSB pistons and harmonic damper. I don't think you need to bother measuring new bolts, just install them per the service manual and go.