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AH64ID

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Everything posted by AH64ID

  1. Pushing 9" in 26 hours. Love it! But I'm at home.
  2. Absoloutly. Getting much below -30°F is extreme weather and it takes more than just good fluids. At those temps lots of things have to be considered. On a side note about cold starting, I never reinstalled my grid heater this winter as average winter temps here haven't needed it... well I am wondering if that was a bad choice. Since we got 9" of snow today, and it's still DUMPING, I'm driving the truck tomorrow. It will be low single digits when I leave for work and supposed to be close to 0° when I leave work.... it fires fast cold soaked to 12° without a grid heater so let's see what tomorrow brings.
  3. For the cost of a heater you can cover the cost difference of a good flowing synthetic for several years, and the oil will flow even if you're parked without electricity. 15w-40 synthetic will work very well for nearly everyone in the lower 48, and is a great summer oil too.
  4. Glad to hear you are making progress!!! Good call on ditching the dino 15w-40, but I think you're probably better off letting it idle for 10 seconds than start/stop and still not getting pressure for 10 seconds. It will take the same amount of time either way.
  5. 1150° does seem a little low unless your never wanting to look at the pyro. My 0.02 is to set the defuel at 1350° and watch the pyro when towing. You might actually find that with additional boost and 50° more EGT you run better. You should be fine at 1250° all day long unless your running very low rpms or VERY advanced timing.
  6. It looks like we're pushing 6" so far. The Boise airport has the most snow on the ground since 1985!! And it's still coming down. No school for the kids today so it's about to be quad hookie-bobbin time!
  7. Double Freudian skip? LOL
  8. There are plenty of white Dodges in Idaho....
  9. We started with TMI and ended up with a visual..... eeeewwwwww I think we all need something to fix that, so....
  10. There are MANY oils available that don't require you to change it with the weather. Running dino 15w-40 at -30°F, without any pre-heat, is just plain dumb. The cold pour point of most dino 15w-40's is -25-27°F so at -30° the oil wont flow properly.. hell it won't even flow at -10° at a decent rate and there is a reason Cummins doesn't want it ran below 5°F. If you want to run one oil year round, and live where you experience 0°F or colder, I would run a synthetic 5w-40 or 15w-40. Amsoil AME 15w-40 is what I run year round. It flows well in the winter and it handles the heat of towing better than dino oil. I get 12 months out of each oil change. I had to run dino 15w-40 one winter and even with moderate above 10°F temps the time to build pressure was substantially longer. Startup is the single most damaging time to oiled components, so good, fast flowing and clingy oils are important. http://vid79.photobucket.com/albums/j156/ah64id/Yotatech Stuff/IMG_11971.mp4 10w-30's can be ran in the ISB; however, there aren't many that meet the Cummins requirements for a 10w-30 so it's best just to steer clear of them.
  11. In terms of testing the block heater just pop the hood and touch the block. It should be at least noticeably warm where the heater is. The windchill won't have an effect on the temperature but it can have an effect on the efficiency of the block heater. I highly recommend some sort of winter front to help keep the heat in. This will also help warm the intercooler and batteries, both of which will help with cold starts. As far as the oil, yes 5w-40 is needed when temps are that cold. It will not effect the starting ability but it will effect oil pressure after startup. Even with a block heater I wouldn't run dino 15w-40 that cold even with most of them having a pour point of -25-27°F they just don't flow well below 0°. My synthetic 15w-40 has a pour point of -36°F and when the block is 0° it takes about 6-8 seconds to get good pressure on the on drivers side of the block. I've done a freezer test at -5° and there is a huge difference in dino and synthetic 15w-40's.
  12. We are having our coldest and whitest year since we moved to Boise in 2004... and LOVING IT!!!
  13. Attitudes like that are why the UAV rules are getting stricter all the time.
  14. In reading more on the FAA's webpage I have found contradicting information. Some states that ALL UAV users must have a license, and other states that recreational pilots don't need a license. There are a whole bunch of rules that apply regardless of recreational or commercial flight. " A person operating a small UAS must either hold a remote pilot airman certificate with a small UAS rating or be under the direct supervision of a person who does hold a remote pilot certificate (remote pilot in command). "
  15. Just like with your pickup registration and license are not the same. The drone not requiring registration doesn't have anything to do with an FAA license to operate it.
  16. The weight limit applies to aircraft registration, but I thought the laws changed this past summer where all UAV operators had to have an FAA license.
  17. Looks like fun!! Did you get your FAA license?
  18. It depends completely on what it's set for in UDC. It's a normal idle range, but it only correct if that's what is being called for. With larger injectors you might try turning the idle pressure up a bit, maybe 8Kish.
  19. It likely is related.
  20. Did you mess with duration in that realm? Is the rail pressure coming up slowly too? Have you tried higher than stock rail pressure at idle?
  21. 11° out this morning so I went to see how she started without a grid heater. Well, even without a winter front the engine was still 39° and it's been parked since 8 last night (11 hours). It started instantly :-)
  22. I would have to have one intricate piece of cardboard to cover what the OEM winter front does. The OEM one also has 4 flaps that can be opened. I've run it on 60° days, not towing, without any temp issues. I like how it blocks the intercooler too. Warmer IATs are good in the winter.
  23. With a winter front installed I found that 90 minutes was optimal when on a timer. After that the cost benefit wasn't there. I get about 90% of the temp rise in 90 minutes. Without a winter front all bets are off.
  24. I would look elsewhere for issues. The grid heater shouldn't even make a discernible difference at 32°F. Heck, I don't even plan on reinstalling mine this winter. HPCR will do better with a pilot, but not at 32°. Have you messed with crank/idle timing?