AH64ID

Yes with studs it's much safer to go higher. Even with my duration lower than stock I would need to have my timing at 30° and 3000 rpms for that to happen (or 20° at 2000), not to mention I think it would be lost power having all the fuel injected BTDC. I don't like to go much more than 50-55% BTDC to keep negative torque down (Fuel combustion BTDC). IIRC peak pressure at 12-15° ATDC is best for power.

Wow, that seems like a lot of idle timing. I don't like pushing much over 20° of timing to a stock head bolts so 30° of stock timing seems very advanced, but maybe I am being overly cautious. What are you seeing at 1500 rpms and 30% load?

Do you have any tuning installed? How many miles? How old are the injectors?

Then I would get some real numbers before going too far with troubleshooting.

The amount of time it's running will be ECM controlled or caused by a faulty relay. I'd check/swap the relay first.

Yes typically more timing at low load is needed for fuel economy but there are other factors. A stock 05 runs more cruise timing than a stock 03 but the 03 burns less fuel. Does the ECM report engine load? That can help determine what part of the timing map it's in. I assume Michael is hand calcing the numbers and not using the OBD data??

As W&F mentioned all 3rd gen and up trucks use AAM. AAM only has a helical gear LSD so no additive needed. It's still a LSD so different tires can be run but better to stick with same brand, but no worse than a new tread and a used tread on the same axle.

Yes I can. With the blankets it takes a little longer. My current turbo is water cooled but it will get that cool on a 100° day too. I have pre/post pyros and am amazed how much longer it takes post to cool off. I go for 350° post on shutdown now. It's not uncommon to see 275° pre and 550° post after a min of idling after a tow.

IMHO 300-350° is too hot for an oil cooled turbo. 250-275° is better.

It's a mirror so yes it's absolutely an opinion thing, I just know that I don't recall any complaints about 2nd/3rd gen mirrors and there are plenty about 4th gen.

Yes really. I find the view-able space behind the truck is greatly reduced with the 4th gen style convex mirror. The portion of the main mirror that was lost with the bigger convex mirror is the area of my 3rd gen mirror I use the most. That's the common complaint from others as well. I'll add that in non-tow mode it's the worst and many compensate for it by running in tow mode all the time as the "flaw" isn't as pronounced.

How do both gauges compare in the morning before starting?

After a more than a few miles with both 3rd and 4th gen tow mirrors I would steer clear of the 4th gen style. The convex portion sucks, and that's the polite version. There are lots of 4th gen mirror complains on the forums too. 2nd/3rd gen is a much better setup.

It may not report GPH but I would guess there is something for injected quantity or load.

All Cummins do not report fuel flow? That's a new one, and not what I have seen. My 05 certainly reports fuel flow. It's wrong, but it does report it. There is an error with how it's programmed since the reported fuel flow goes down from idle to 1500 rpms, but the boost goes up with a stock turbo. Diesela or dieselb. Based on how much boost can vary for a specific fuel load something has to be reported or the mph wouldn't be as accurate as you see on your 02.

Great to hear!

So the OBDLink has no other way to calibrate fuel flow other than VE? Seem's like we're trying to make lemonade with apples. Michael, I assume you have been verifying the OBDLink mileage to hand calculated? There is something missing as boost is never going to be an accurate enough indicator of fuel flow to be measurable. What did the SGII use for fuel flow? I'm not trying to start any fights or wars... just asking some questions to stuff I see posted here that doesn't make any sense.

Based on what I have been told how the OBDLink works with the 2nd gen trucks there isn't anything that can be derived from the torque gauge wrapping. Torque is based on fuel/rpms, and fuel is based on boost (correct me if I misunderstood), boost is based on TOO many variables to get anything out of it with a tuning change. (extreme, but I run about 3-4 psi less than I did 100% OEM and make over 100rwhp more at about 200° lower EGT's, my fuel flow is WAY up but the OBDLink would show less HP/TQ and wrap it slower, opposite of actual). Yes it's exciting and I'm not doubting that, but it's a very misleading gauge, so reporting it isn't very credible. Again, if I have misunderstood how the OBDLink gets fuel flow on the truck in question please correct me. I didn't bring up HP/TQ, I simply commented on an existing comment about it. We all know, or should know, that you don't add hp adders for your current gain, that's NEWB-101 stuff. It's not in the past, it's in this thread. Not sure what the past has to do with anything being discussed here.

I still wouldn't tow with an Edge product above 3 on a HPCR as there is a lot more going on up there than just timing. They run too hot up there for added timing. The 4-6 should be hotter than 1-3. Got a pic of where your two probes are exactly?

IMHO that's not enough weight to make it droop that much. 220lbs shipping weight and it won't add that much as the OEM bumper does have some weight to it. It's also not far enough in front of the front axle to get a cantilever effect and reduce the weight of the rear axle enough to notice.

You're missing W&F's point. No one is saying a truck isn't needed or a good thing to have, but the point is that if you're investing this much time and money into a couple percent increase in economy you will end up losing money.

I bumped my stops once or twice on some serious speed bumps when my OEM shocks were shot but I wasn't going slow either. I also bumped my stops once on a FS road when I hit a VERY VERY big pothole I didn't see around a corner. That was also the day my oil pump split :-) My FAW is generally 5200-5400 lbs unless I am towing.

I was just looking at your article on the OBDLink and have a couple questions. You say it gets fuel flow from boost; however, fuel flow at 10 psi and 1500 rpms is a lot different than 10 psi and 2500 rpms. Also 10 psi at 12° of timing is going to be different fuel flow than 10 psi at 8° of timing. So how accurate is it? What did the SGII use for fuel flow calculations? Your definition, and how to calculate, volumetric efficiency is based on your fuel tank yet volumetric efficiency has nothing to do with a fuel tank. Forced induction motors often have volumetric efficiency of over 90%. 63% sounds like a 5.9L gas Dodge Ram...again it has nothing to do with your fuel tank, but rather the amount of air an engine moves versus its displacement. What you described is how to calibrate the fuel consumption. As for BSFC it's going to vary with each and every timing adjustment, duration adjustment, injector change, turbo change, etc. It's not a fixed number, so are you re-adusting for each mod and each retune? Aside from hours of dyno time I am not even sure how you would re-adjust BSFC. Or is the OBDLink a wide shotgun blast at what your getting and not really useful in terms of hp or fuel flow?

Yes custom tuning is 90% about streetabilty and 10% about peak power. But if you want to keep hp out of the game it shouldn't be used in post #1 as an initial comparison...especially from a device that computes fuel flow on boost Way too many factors in tuning effect how much boost "x" fuel will make. As far as a dyno it can show a bit more than just peak numbers. One of the best thing it shows about custom tuning is the smoothness of the power curve. A run with smoothing on "0" with custom tuning is generally smoother than smoothing on "5" with a non custom tune. It's rather impressive and a good selling point too. Spool is huge with custom tuning as well and a dyno can show that as well, as long as it's the same dyno and each run is done the same way. Butt dyno generally also is effected with custom tuning since as the tune runs smoother the power feels lower, much lower to some people, so a dyno is a good way to confirm power is there. It's certainly not a requirement, or more than a nice to have, but it does show more than just peak numbers. As you know you can never save enough money at the pump to cover the cost of mods.... let alone the fuel spent tuning and adjusting to get there. I see W&F's point, it's a ton of $$$ into a rig that already gets good mileage for what it is. At the end of the day there would be more money in the owners pocket if they left it alone.

It does sounds like the 08's springs are worn out, thou it's rather impressive to hear of that with that few of miles. Is there any evidence it was lifted before? Could the PO have replaced the OEM springs with HEMI springs on accident, or maybe intentionally, when removing a lift?