JOHNFAK

That sucks the big one Tyler. Sorry man. http://www.ravelco.com/ If it helps.

http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2559645#post2559645 http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2559645#post2559645

Yeah this is great stuff ^^^^ Been meaning to get it done .... but have been away. Will update soon. Thanks Hag

Figure they are all just bent aluminium steel piping .......no point paying extra unless I want SS. But obviously depends on bends and fitment being good. Side note. Oil leak looks like it's from behind the belt pulley to the right of the water pump somewhere.

Still undecided. I might try a regular exhaust ..... fix oil leaks and steering and go from there As always

lol

Who's got a good cheap regular exhaust recommendation. Cheapest I could find was. http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Turbo-Back-Downpipe-Exhaust-System-Kit-For-98-02-Dodge-Ram-Cummins-5-9L-Diesel-/191871317902?fits=Year%3A2002%7CMake%3ADodge%7CModel%3ARam+2500&hash=item2cac6bf78e:g:SGYAAOSwHJhXNUgM&vxp=mtr

Paint is fir making the comp wheel when it's balanced btw. Like Tyler said ..... as long as no in/out play and not touching comp wheel housing ... good to go.

It's fine ;) If you really want to .... Q-tip with some solvent just keep it from going behind comp wheel.

Keep forgetting the middle pull down has cup holders. I need to keep that puppy down. Nice.

Smoke is white/grey. No blue. Actually the issue was always there just I figured it was a p7100 tuning issue when i got the truck I like the idea of the valves/oil rings ......... but I'm becoming more and more convinced its fuel Im seeing and something wrong with the head/compression. Still not 100% sure how to tell though. Compression is definately lower ...... like ~350 .... but its pretty consistent across board and truck starts fine and runs fine with no symptoms and normal blowby. There was definately some head work and the block is oringed. But without pulling the head hard to know ....... and even if I pull the head ...... still going to be hard to know if anything done to block (decked etc) without having engine pulled and taken to shop. Could xplain the lower compression. Open to ideas ........ but not sure pulling the engine (or head) is worth it at this stage until there are bigger symptoms. Might just remove the stack and go back to normal exhaust. Then the smoke at idle will bother me less. http://vid1059.photobucket.com/albums/t430/fakdaddy/truck/20160517_090028.mp4 ^^ worse in real life I feel

Haven't done an oil analysis although I have ordered a kit from Blackstone Labs. Havent done a leakdown but compression was done and they were ok.

Whilst we wait on mr Bill Anyone got ideas on how to determine if its fuel or oil leaking ? Fuel mixed with black soot ........ Or oil. They kinda look the same

Hag - thx. hard to define it more than that. Basically when the power steering was working and was able to turn with 1 finger - everything seems more repsonsive like teh pressure was helping the steering feedback to my hands Now its harder to turn - like before I could easily turn in a parking spot ...... now I have to do 2 turns as it doesnt push the steering far enough on a tight turn. So yes - think Im going to pull the valve/regulator and check the filter........ I have heard of teh washer behind spring - does it go on the backside slipping over the valve/regulator ? Will do this and update.

Bill when you get time give me a call PM box. Lots of questions/scenarios etc ....... I know your busy so no rush. Video http://vid1059.photobucket.com/albums/t430/fakdaddy/truck/20160514_100912.mp4

So pop head. Drop pan for access to rod mains. Replace piston rings. I would have thought that would show up more as loss of compression and blowby......rather than contributing oil out exhaust. Got a few more questions when you have time ..... basically scenarios if I decide to pull head. Valvoline 15w 40

3 sets

Me too if I can get him to call slacker. Yeah... i can get near $20k parting out. Else got to drop more $$$ on a $16k truck........ Decisions

So a few of you know I've been dealing with smoke at idle on my truck. Long story short every theory has been touched on. Last action was redoing the exhaust valve seals for no change. However I still have a oil looking ride Comming outing #1 exhaust . It looks like oil .... but obviously could be fuel with soot. 99% this is cause of my smoke at idle. I'm waiting to have a phone conversation with bill W&F.... but entertaining ideas of what I'm I'm for if I remove head. Considering parting out otherwise.

If your going to do it ...... 3rd gen leaves with perch relocation Or softer if you don't need to tow

Think Im going to pull the valve and filter and clean up.

ok - bringing this back from the rear. How do I know if my hydroboost/Power Steering is working properly. Heres my deal. I put on a brand new aftermarket Steering Gear. Was ok but kind of had some slop in the steering under certain conditions that wasnt there before. Not the normal 12noon 15 degrees each way ...... more like 45-120 area. Spoke with the shop after taking video and they sent me another gear. In between I noticed my PS fluid was low. I put on the new gear, and fresh PS fluid and it was great. It felt like I could steer with 1 finger, and apart from steering wheel slightly out of alignment 95 % of the slop I mentioned was gone. 2 days later the steering feels more like it did before. The "feedback" pressure that seemed to come from the PS/hydroboost wasn't as good. Kinda feels like I couldn't turn as easily and the steering is a little less controlled. Under this scenario it feels a little more "loose" in steering. I thought this must be loss of fluid (as it was low before) - so I checked - NOPE. It seems lower ....... but its 4/5th fill. There's definately something going on ........ but I can't put my finger on it. Anyone got any ideas on how to validate or things to look at / for ?

Nice ^^^ I had my truck on 2x high end units worth many times that and neither could read . Most likely the rear sensor ...... since rwal abs But don't remember that tripping the brake light ....... You can try ohm out the sensor as well as the wires.

Yes. Just want to cut out a bit of the backside of the panel to get to the rust better.....and treat it etc. Then patch it back up. Thx guys